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Discussion Starter #21
Looks pretty. :thumbsup: Is that something you built or tested by chance? Construction material? How well does it work? I love sharing info. :)

It's always neat to see how things are mocked up VS how they look as a final piece... hopefully my stuff looks as pretty in the end as it is functional. I have an advantage in that I'm not trying to make money on this, it's just my spare time invested in learning how to do this on my own. It may take longer to get to the finished project, but I get to say that -I- made it, and I get to learn some good stuff in the process. :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #22
PS That #1 header in the picture collects way off the edge of the interior opening of that t-25 flange, and that runner especially is starting to collect parallel to the flange. We're trying to get the runners in this on to collect more perpendicular to the flange to promote better flow.... again, it's an experiment on a budget. I'm anxious to see how well it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Well, it's in position. :biggrin: Now comes the fun part of working on all the aux plumbing before it goes off for coating. Going to have to alter the radiator fan bracket and lower mount a bit to clear the #4, but I think it's worth it to get the snail high enough to gravity drain... the shaft centerline is about 2" above oil level at the moment.......... hopefully that's good enough. :badteeth:
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
How to keep flanges from cracking: Good root/fusion pass (BACK-PURGE!), clean, fill pass, clean, and a nice weave to finish it up. Found out the hard way before that single pass welding on the flanges supporting all that weight don't last all that long. :badteeth:
 

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How to keep flanges from cracking: Good root/fusion pass (BACK-PURGE!), clean, fill pass, clean, and a nice weave to finish it up. Found out the hard way before that single pass welding on the flanges supporting all that weight way don't last all that long. :badteeth:
Fucking nuts! Damn fine looking job there man. Looks like youve taken some time with that badboy. The tools you have access to is the stuff of most mens wet dreams. Keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Whats that merge look like on the inside?
Lots of work with porting bits is what it looks like. :) I'll snap some shots of it when it gets back from coating. But the backpurging keeps the weld looking pretty clean on the inside with good penetration. It's amazing the difference it makes.
 

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I wish I had half the talent and knowledge you do on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I'm not quite the welder that my friend is on steel, and he did the welding/fitting on this one. If I practice it weekly I can get there, but it really is a perishible skill. As far as the knowledge goes, READ BOOKS. ;) Then go break shit and scare the hell outta yourself trying to apply it, heheh. Seriously though, if you can ever find a tuner or builder in the game that will let you pay them for their time and to show/explain stuff to you, it's worth every penny. That's the spirit of DIY in a nutshell.... sometimes it's not the cheapest or fastest way to knowledge, but it sure is the most comprehensive. Don't let people discourage you with "Guy X does it better like this" or "That's ugly" kind of talk, just try to do a little better each time you do it, and learn from mistakes (I have a few really nice ashtrays, and I don't even smoke....). Probably one of my favorite quotes was from RB Racing: "Just because someone goes fast doesn't mean you should do whatever you think they did. This path assumes they knew what they were doing, which isn't necessarily the case. Take this path and you will be guaranteed second place.". Hell, their whole "Racing Secrets" page is right on point http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/secrets.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Mini-Update:

This shit is rapidly escalating out of the "budget" build IMO, but that's life I guess. Ordered a set of Crower rods and SS exhaust valves; but the ARP main stud kit, APE Ti retainers & spring kit arrived a few days ago. Crower apparently had NO inventory on hand, so they are giving me a 4-week ETA on the rods. Ouch. Well, I'll at least get it running on the stock motor. I'm looking into finding a bare head that I can build off the bike in the mean time, so I can have the "built" motor fully assembled and ready to drop in when the time comes (my other head has a freeze crack in it, and the one I bought from a member has a galled up cam journal. Boo Hoo).

Otherwise, parts are off to the coaters and it's just a waiting game for more parts to come in..........
 

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Mini-Update:

This shit is rapidly escalating out of the "budget" build IMO, but that's life I guess. Ordered a set of Crower rods and SS exhaust valves; but the ARP main stud kit, APE Ti retainers & spring kit arrived a few days ago. Crower apparently had NO inventory on hand, so they are giving me a 4-week ETA on the rods. Ouch. Well, I'll at least get it running on the stock motor. I'm looking into finding a bare head that I can build off the bike in the mean time, so I can have the "built" motor fully assembled and ready to drop in when the time comes (my other head has a freeze crack in it, and the one I bought from a member has a galled up cam journal. Boo Hoo).

Otherwise, parts are off to the coaters and it's just a waiting game for more parts to come in..........
I remember when I tried the turbo project & spent way more than I needed too!
Do you by any chance know the ARP main studs part number? Thanks in advance :)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The main stud kit is labeled/sold by APE.... it's listed on their website. You may have to run a 10mm REAMER through the lower case holes though, depending on how well they line up.
 

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The main stud kit is labeled/sold by APE.... it's listed on their website. You may have to run a 10mm REAMER through the lower case holes though, depending on how well they line up.
Oh ok so APE kit is really an ARP kit! I have been trying to figure out which one it is, but I knew about the APE one...I thought maybe you figured it out :icon_wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #35
'nother mini-update

So, 'tis the season for frustration. Swaintech parts are still not here... apartently they only send out exhaust coatings once a month and I just missed a batch when I sent mine in. Pistons are done, but wating on the snail/header. For 7 weeks waiting, their shit had better look good. Rods are still en route, according to Dwayne/Crower I should see them in a week or two... they told him 4 weeks to make a set as they had no inventory on hand. Water/Meth kit from RB racing is still MIA. I did call them 3 weeks after putting in an order and the nice lady did tell me, "Yea we got your order, but he hasn't gotten around to it yet". From their webpage and reviews I know that's how they do buisness, so I'm trying not to get anxious about that.

More piss-poor news: Local machinist didn't have a pilot or seat cutter small enough to work on my head, so I sent it off to APE yesterday for the valve job (decided to bite the bullet and get SS exhaust valves). They tell me 4 weeks for a turn around. I'm starting to think this is the industry standard wait time for parts & services. Got a used head to build at a good price, but of course it had a flat lobe on the intake cam. :mod_smilie_hey_you:

As far as good news goes: Got a 3rd Gen intake cam from a member here at least, and it looks good. I'm toying with the idea of running 2 intake cams, but I'm going to do some more research first (thoughts and suggestions welcome here...). Stand alone should be in the mail today or tomorrow, that's going to be fun. I'll probably fire the bike up NA once I get that installed to dial everything in, and then just await the turbo parts/AI injection stuff last.

God I hate the waiting game.
 

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Stupid question

If that important that the exhaust header have the same length or volume for each piston ?

When I Look to the header #4 are very long, #2 and 3 are shorter and #1 are shorter then #4. Maybe it's not important at all.

When you look at the Britten exhaust arrangement (it's not a turbo, but the bike made by the new zelander Genius) a lot of work was done to keep the length of the header equal.

Probably a neophyte question......:crackup:
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Length -can- be important, but more in relation to pulse dynamics than anything else. You worry about length only so far as it collects with other primaries and causes pulse effects back up the length of the primary.... it's a balance of flow and timing those pulses for a desired peak torque range (read: cam timing), but it isn't all about length. Changes in diameter or sharp bends also create pulse effects.... Simply put, it's an insane amount of math to get it exactly where you want in an NA set up, but it can yield benefits if it's done correctly. In a turbo manifold it gets all mucked up... Backpressure ratios and heat energy delivered to the turbine wheel make a much larger impact than pulse dynamics, IMHO.

Packaging restrictions limit me here, and as neanderthal as it is I can just hold the wastegate closed a little longer to make up for any difference in power that it might make. For the most part, "equal length primaries" is just another hype/performance buzzword that really doesn't mean what people think it means. :) It's a good question, but it can't really be answered in less than 100 pages. If it's something that really interests you, though, I can recommend some good reading.
 

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So, 'tis the season for frustration. Swaintech parts are still not here... apartently they only send out exhaust coatings once a month and I just missed a batch when I sent mine in. Pistons are done, but wating on the snail/header. For 7 weeks waiting, their shit had better look good. Rods are still en route, according to Dwayne/Crower I should see them in a week or two... they told him 4 weeks to make a set as they had no inventory on hand. Water/Meth kit from RB racing is still MIA. I did call them 3 weeks after putting in an order and the nice lady did tell me, "Yea we got your order, but he hasn't gotten around to it yet". From their webpage and reviews I know that's how they do buisness, so I'm trying not to get anxious about that.

More piss-poor news: Local machinist didn't have a pilot or seat cutter small enough to work on my head, so I sent it off to APE yesterday for the valve job (decided to bite the bullet and get SS exhaust valves). They tell me 4 weeks for a turn around. I'm starting to think this is the industry standard wait time for parts & services. Got a used head to build at a good price, but of course it had a flat lobe on the intake cam. :mod_smilie_hey_you:

As far as good news goes: Got a 3rd Gen intake cam from a member here at least, and it looks good. I'm toying with the idea of running 2 intake cams, but I'm going to do some more research first (thoughts and suggestions welcome here...). Stand alone should be in the mail today or tomorrow, that's going to be fun. I'll probably fire the bike up NA once I get that installed to dial everything in, and then just await the turbo parts/AI injection stuff last.

God I hate the waiting game.
I feel your pain man. I spun a rod bearing at the end of last year so of course the crank needed a little attention and off to Marine it goes. The 4 week initial estimate was changed to 5 as soon as it was shipped, and we are now over 6 weeks and no crank :(

I also just talked to APE this week about getting a set of 25.5mm Gen1/Gen2 stainless exhaust valves cut down to 24.5mm (no one makes them for the Gen3). Last minute decision, and I still haven't heard back on the lead time. They said it would be a week before the valves even came in to be cut. So make for making the start of race season.
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
ID750 Injector Instaill

Yea, I guess tax season is the perfect storm: race seasons are about to start and everyone has money burning a hole in their pocket. Lesson learned: do projects before January next time if I have to farm work out.

Since I'm stalled on parts, I decided to to my TB mods. Removed the secondary shafts and epoxied the holes, and installed the shiny new ID750's. ID injectors only really come in two sizes, and the smallest body size is still a bit too long to fit the stock ZX10/ZX14 set-up. Easy fix is to put a couple small spacers between the fuel rail mount and the injector bodies (Red circles). Really simple (you could even use washers if you had to), and you can run the best injectors on the market. The connectors are different, but you can either put new ones on the stock harness or use pigtail adapters that a variety of people sell. Green circles show zip ties on vacuum nipples; this is almost a must on any turbo project once you start upping the boost.... you won't believe the sort of headaches this will prevent down the road.

Second shot is of the smoothed up TB's. Just used hi-temp JB weld (the kind you get as a putty stick and have to knead together). If you use gloves and a bit of water you can mold the stuff like pottery clay.... nice and smooth. Those plugs are flush with the holes and smooth, and all I had to use was water and a paper towel to clean the excess, though it does take a few minutes of shaping/smoothing/wearing the putty down with your fingers. :biggrin:

Lowered the bike too (1.125 front, 1.5 rear), but everyone has seen how to do that... no sense on posting pictures for a set of dog bones. The set of Evil Swing Arm links are nice pieces, though, and very inexpensive. They give you a 0"/1.5"/3" adjustment range as well. :thumbsup:
 

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