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I didn't realize you needed some also. I figured you already did the upgrade
Hopefully I'll get them on by the weekend and let you guys know
Nah, mine's a Gen3 with 30mm Tokico. Over here some refer to yours the 'batman' Nissin.
The 2 pad design will give extra bite. You need those calipers more than I do.
 

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Judging from the sight of that thin metal backing on the pads, you might be right they are Nissin stock pads.

Those are HH sintered pads too, so please take note as you remove them for sanding/buffing before actually using them. Presuming you are going to do it.

Waiting for your feedback on how much better these new calipers are, in terms of lever reach, linearity, and initial bite. Initial bite is how much feeling you get when feathering the brake lever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Judging from the sight of that thin metal backing on the pads, you might be right they are Nissin stock pads.

Those are HH sintered pads too, so please take note as you remove them for sanding/buffing before actually using them. Presuming you are going to do it.

Waiting for your feedback on how much better these new calipers are, in terms of lever reach, linearity, and initial bite. Initial bite is how much feeling you get when feathering the brake lever.
I'll let you know. I want to do just these calipers and pads first and see the difference it makes. Then I'll do pads, lines, master cylinder if I need too. Lines will be a must though since the original rubber lines are already over 15 years old.

It's going to be cold all week, with the exception of Friday, so I may take these to work Thursday with my front and rear stands and then ride in Friday and replace them Friday night at the shop

Right now initial bite doesn't happen until the lever is pulled in at least 50% of the way, and that's after bleeding them. I have the lever adjusted all the way out at it's furthest position right now and it's a reach for me to even grab it
 

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I just installed new Vesrah pads - they are about twice as thick as those old clunkers. Also received new (radial) mc so will have mc, braided lines, calipers, pads and DOT4 installed by the weekend.

New brakes require a bed in process (repeated stops from say 60 mph with cool down period between, but never come to a full stop) so I won't know about hard stop performance for awhile, but I'm sure it will be night and day

Initial bite on the stock brakes was non existent

Also adding Toby steering damper (as a precaution). The Ohlins steering damper on the Gen 2 is weak but you can ship it out to be rebuilt (new oil etc) for alot less than new
 

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I'll let you know. I want to do just these calipers and pads first and see the difference it makes. Then I'll do pads, lines, master cylinder if I need too. Lines will be a must though since the original rubber lines are already over 15 years old.

It's going to be cold all week, with the exception of Friday, so I may take these to work Thursday with my front and rear stands and then ride in Friday and replace them Friday night at the shop

Right now initial bite doesn't happen until the lever is pulled in at least 50% of the way, and that's after bleeding them. I have the lever adjusted all the way out at it's furthest position right now and it's a reach for me to even grab it
I like the way you make progressive changes and measure/evaluate the effects of every bits.
Some people do not, but nothing is wrong either way.

Is your MC the radial or axial type?

Extreme initial bite I have experienced was on a Brembo system, which immediately stopped the bike while I was doing a slow U-turn, and I dropped the bike.

My Gen3 initial bite is sooner than your description, but the lever travel is more than desired. I am contemplating moving to 17mm or 18mm MC.

I just installed new Vesrah pads - they are about twice as thick as those old clunkers. Also received new (radial) mc so will have mc, braided lines, calipers, pads and DOT4 installed by the weekend.

New brakes require a bed in process (repeated stops from say 60 mph with cool down period between, but never come to a full stop) so I won't know about hard stop performance for awhile, but I'm sure it will be night and day

Initial bite on the stock brakes was non existent

Also adding Toby steering damper (as a precaution). The Ohlins steering damper on the Gen 2 is weak but you can ship it out to be rebuilt (new oil etc) for alot less than new
Yeah, the 'never come to a full stop' while bedding in new brake pads is very important.

we should plan for it, find a suitable time and place to get this done.
 

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Kind of surprised it needed a rebuild (even with it sitting a long time), did the previous owner indicate what was wrong with it?

I bought a new one for $200, mainly because I wanted to upgrade from linear (19 mm though)

I will say I noticed what appeared to be a gel like substance in my old master cylinder that was probably just congealed old fluid. The fluid had been flushed by the dealer before I bought the bike, too

Plenty of issues crop up when these bikes sit for years!
 

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Came across this page: BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER – OEM Parts Make A Difference

@Gen101 19mm is the new MC or the stock one?

@Qwank seems to be stock Nissin HH pads as I presumed. Looks like the seller or somebody rattlecan sprayed the caliper, presumably, and brake fluid will strip that paint easily. Though I wouldn't mind the appearance as long as it works perfectly.

If you think the MC feels dodgy then I'd ask someone I trust to take a look. Sometimes we cannot describe our hunch or feeling when something isn't right, so I can only say perform due diligence to address it. Nothing is more important that being able to trust your ride.
 

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It's a new master (stock is linear) - gold with black lever on the Nissin page you linked, which only comes in 19 mm. The black one is available in 17 mm. 17 vs 19 mm seems like a hotly debated topic

Yeah front brakes on a sportbike are basically life and death
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
@alexei good info on that master cylinder page. Thanks! And the calipers are definitely factory finish still. I think you were seeing the old brake dust on the pad shim. The shipper didn't seal up the banjo bolt hole and they came in covered in brake fluid.

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Kind of surprised it needed a rebuild (even with it sitting a long time), did the previous owner indicate what was wrong with it?

I bought a new one for $200, mainly because I wanted to upgrade from linear (19 mm though)

I will say I noticed what appeared to be a gel like substance in my old master cylinder that was probably just congealed old fluid. The fluid had been flushed by the dealer before I bought the bike, too

Plenty of issues crop up when these bikes sit for years!
Sitting is the worst thing for any vehicle. Now we have these low mileage bikes that need everything replaced. 😡
Luckily the previous owner seems to have taken care of mostly everything last summer, I'm so glad he replace the tires because that one job I'd have to bring it to a shop for, we can't do motorcycle tires on our tire machines. I think he let the new battery die over the winter though because it isn't holding a charge past 3 or 4 days. So I'll need a new battery too. Not a big deal though. I'm used to buying a used car or truck and dropping $2,500 - 3k in parts into it, so this is nothing so far.
 
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