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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
here's the scoop. Just ordered a brand new Ohlins TTX shock for the 07 zx10. bike only has 500 miles on it. easy as hell to install and looks damn pretty. but i didnt spend 1100 on a shock for looks...

i put the thing on last night, and took it for a ride today. first thing i noticed was that in was a ROUGH ride! Its absolutetly uncomfortable. The bike now feels unstable in the corners, and when it hits a bump, it hurts. The bike just feels totally unbalanced now.

Ohlins sends these shocks out set up for the ZX10. When i ordered, I told them i weigh180 in gym shorts. I dont know how specific they match the spring to the weight, but she said thats good enough.

current rider sag is 37mm.
current static sag is 18 mm.

I'm really new to all this suspension set up, but to be honest, the bike felt more stable in full lean, half lean, and straight with the stock shock on. have no idea what to do. Do i need to send this back and get a heavier spring? Do i have to take this to a pro to set it up? good lord... any help?
 

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First make sure the shock was sprung for your weight. Get the number off the spring and call Ohlins to make sure it is the correct spring for your weight. If it is then look in the manual that comes with the shock and read about setting the preload, compression, and rebound. Check where they are set now. A good place to start is where the "factory" settings are to start with. To get the best setup you should take it to someone who knows how to set up suspension on sport bikes, and in particular Ohlins. Should cost about $30-$50. I can tell you, once my bikes are set up for racing. They suck to ride on the street. Very stiff. I have to really soften up the suspension for street riding.
 

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here's the scoop. Just ordered a brand new Ohlins TTX shock for the 07 zx10. bike only has 500 miles on it. easy as hell to install and looks damn pretty. but i didnt spend 1100 on a shock for looks...

i put the thing on last night, and took it for a ride today. first thing i noticed was that in was a ROUGH ride! Its absolutetly uncomfortable. The bike now feels unstable in the corners, and when it hits a bump, it hurts. The bike just feels totally unbalanced now.

Ohlins sends these shocks out set up for the ZX10. When i ordered, I told them i weigh180 in gym shorts. I dont know how specific they match the spring to the weight, but she said thats good enough.

current rider sag is 37mm.
current static sag is 18 mm.

Your best to find out the spring rate and figure out if its right for your suited weight (which based on your 180 neeked would be 195+ in full leathers, boots, helmet etc)

If in fact those are your sag #'s they are horrible. A good base setting for static is 6-8mm...with rider sag being 28-30mm so if its possible to add preload until you get these #'s do so.

BD
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just took those sag ratings today... I dont have full leathers yet, so perfect measurements are hard to get.

I'll call ohlins and see if i have the right spring. I read that manual 50 times. The preload nob (refer to the the huge black nob on the picture) makes it hard to feel the click. the manual gives no reference to how many turns is full "stiff" and full "soft".

I'm getting really psyched about riding the Nurburgring here in germany, and know i'm ready to step it up to the next level of riding (the track) but, this really friggin discourages me dammit.
 

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First of all. I'm not trying to diss you or anything like that....

But if you are streetriding, why do you even spend 1100 bucks on a TTX shock?

Öhlins shocks (and the TTX in particular) are made for racing, not riding on a bumpy street. If they sprung the shock after you weight, they probably figured you would be racing it... And it's gonna feel very stiff while riding on the streets...

Then as BD said, your sag is horrible... Check you sag, and set both compression settings and rebound to somewhere in the middle, or as stated as a basic setting in the manual for the shockabsorber. When setting sag, you should set the rebound and compression to 0. And then adjust them back again when you're done...

And remember to compensate the front of the bike when you change the rear, to get a balanced bike. You are now running a stiffer rear, with a completley different shock than the OEM, while the front is unchanged. This will make the bike very unbalanced... So, check the sag in front aswell...

When the sag is set right, you can start to play around with the settings until you find a setup that you like...

Hope you find a good setting...
 

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First of all. I'm not trying to diss you or anything like that....

But if you are streetriding, why do you even spend 1100 bucks on a TTX shock?

Öhlins shocks (and the TTX in particular) are made for racing, not riding on a bumpy street. If they sprung the shock after you weight, they probably figured you would be racing it... And it's gonna feel very stiff while riding on the streets...

Then as BD said, your sag is horrible... Check you sag, and set both compression settings and rebound to somewhere in the middle, or as stated as a basic setting in the manual for the shockabsorber. When setting sag, you should set the rebound and compression to 0. And then adjust them back again when you're done...

And remember to compensate the front of the bike when you change the rear, to get a balanced bike. You are now running a stiffer rear, with a completley different shock than the OEM, while the front is unchanged. This will make the bike very unbalanced... So, check the sag in front aswell...

When the sag is set right, you can start to play around with the settings until you find a setup that you like...

Hope you find a good setting...
:+1: They sent you a shock with valving and a spring that would be ideal for the track. When you ordered the shock you should've specified it was primarily for street and they would've probably given you completely different spring. Elka for example makes every shock custom for each person and you must tell them if you are riding street or track. Even if you tell them track, they ask how experienced you are as the valving for a professional or expert level track rider will be stiffer than for a novice level track rider. Also your TTX shock is a 3-way shock so you have Low Speed compression to adjust for and over small bumps or imperfections in the road the bike will feel harsh or have no feeling at all unless you adjust low-speed compression correctly. This is why they normally don't recommend 3-way shocks for the street or even some track riders because it requires more attention to detail to get perfectly; you could have a 3-way shock that feels like crap if not setup propertly and a 2-way shock that feels like a WSBK if setup properly. Take your shock to a suspension pro in your area and have it setup for YOU and your riding style (I'm assuming STREET).
 

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Öhlins shocks (and the TTX in particular) are made for racing, not riding on a bumpy street. If they sprung the shock after you weight, they probably figured you would be racing it... And it's gonna feel very stiff while riding on the streets...
I'm also looking at changing the rear shock and front cartridge....

But I assume that even a 'race' shock (ohlins, penske 8987, Elka) wich as plenty of adjustment, should be able to be 'toned-down' for street riding. Wouldn't just lowering the hydrolic preload and dialing softer rebound/compression setting do the trick?

I know with the stock shock using the factory setting, I was litterely getting ejected out of my seat on sharp bumps...afterdialing down the rebound and compression setting it bacame much better.
 

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: Also your TTX shock is a 3-way shock so you have Low Speed compression to adjust for and over small bumps or imperfections in the road the bike will feel harsh or have no feeling at all unless you adjust low-speed compression correctly. This is why they normally don't recommend 3-way shocks for the street or even some track riders because it requires more attention to detail to get perfectly; you could have a 3-way shock that feels like crap if not setup propertly and a 2-way shock that feels like a WSBK if setup properly. Take your shock to a suspension pro in your area and have it setup for YOU and your riding style (I'm assuming STREET).
I guess it take more time to adjust but it must be so good once your there.... i'm not an experience track rider...but with the stock shock wich is a 2-way ajustement (if I understand correctly) it's alway a comprimise between slow and fast damping. when braking hard I get a lot of chatter from the front...if i stifen the compression damping I get rid of it...but then i lose some front feedback and get harder ride or bump steer

I can only guess that with a 3 way shock you should use a stiffer slow compression setting and a lighter fast compression setting to get a good bump absorption and get less nose dive when hard braking....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This bike will be rode 50-50... street-track, for now. I wanted a shock i could grow into. maybe i just got excited, i had the money, who knows.

I dont wanna be a poser, lol... i'm trying to learn. I'm not going to the track to learn how to adjust my suspension. I read this was THE absolute BEST mod you can do to your bike...

by next summer this will be a track bike.. thats what i want, and thats where i'll ride. while i have the money (Air Force money lol) i'm going to use it on what makes me happy. sorry... < drunk rambling>

I'm a good street rider, i have to take it to the next level.
 

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suntorn84,

I agree with the others that you now have a set up that's half street and half track. The problem is that the front half is the street half and the back is the track half. The sag numbers are not correct at this point. Big Daddy has it right with static at 6-8mm and rider sag being 28-30mm for the rear. I recommend that you get this DVD:

http://beta.rnbstudios.com/ottstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=2

Dave Moss is an AMA level suspension tuner. He explains how to balance the bike, how to get is set up correctly, and a little bit about tire reading. There is one other DVD at this site that goes over basic components and general setting effects.

Keep in mind that sport bikes are typically sprung for a 150-160 lb rider when it comes to track settings. At the track nobody cares about comfort. Nobody. It's all about performances and traction. If you want to ride this bike on the street and the track you're going to have to compromise comfort on the street or performance on the track. It doesn't matter what equipment you have; a set up for the track is always going to feel stiff and uncomfortable on the street. If you've got specific questions feel free to shoot me a message directly.

Later
 

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I guess it take more time to adjust but it must be so good once your there.... i'm not an experience track rider...but with the stock shock wich is a 2-way ajustement (if I understand correctly) it's alway a comprimise between slow and fast damping. when braking hard I get a lot of chatter from the front...if i stifen the compression damping I get rid of it...but then i lose some front feedback and get harder ride or bump steer

I can only guess that with a 3 way shock you should use a stiffer slow compression setting and a lighter fast compression setting to get a good bump absorption and get less nose dive when hard braking....
Yes that's true. Almost any aftermarket 2-way shock will be a good mod, but you will not feel a night and day difference from a re-valved and correctly sprung stock shock. Many people think they need all these 25mm fork cartridges and stuff and if money is not an issue to you than by all means spend it. However, unless you are a really fast trackday rider/racer and you can really feel what the bike is doing underneath you, it's just waisted money. 90% of trackday riders will benefit greatly from re-valved OEM suspension equipment (with the exception being the shock on some models) as most modern-day suspension equipment is VERY good.

FWIW, talk to any suspension GURU and they will confirm that setting up your suspension is the single most important mod you can do if you ride on the track. You will see much better results (i.e. quicker laptimes) by spending money on suspension mods as opposed to power mods (i.e. full exhaust, racing cams, PCIII, etc.)
 

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Right now the most money I can afford is modifying the front forks (about 600-800) and a penske or Elka rear shock with 3 way adjust...(about a 1000)

I'll have a serious talk with my suspension GURU about 2 way versus 3 way adjument shocks for me...He as seen me on the track...but did not suggest a perticular combo beside giving me the choice between revalving my stock, Penske and a Ohlins....
 

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here's the scoop. Just ordered a brand new Ohlins TTX shock for the 07 zx10. bike only has 500 miles on it. easy as hell to install and looks damn pretty. but i didnt spend 1100 on a shock for looks...

i put the thing on last night, and took it for a ride today. first thing i noticed was that in was a ROUGH ride! Its absolutetly uncomfortable. The bike now feels unstable in the corners, and when it hits a bump, it hurts. The bike just feels totally unbalanced now.

Ohlins sends these shocks out set up for the ZX10. When i ordered, I told them i weigh180 in gym shorts. I dont know how specific they match the spring to the weight, but she said thats good enough.

current rider sag is 37mm.
current static sag is 18 mm.

I'm really new to all this suspension set up, but to be honest, the bike felt more stable in full lean, half lean, and straight with the stock shock on. have no idea what to do. Do i need to send this back and get a heavier spring? Do i have to take this to a pro to set it up? good lord... any help?
OK the stock Ohlins shock (KA6060) comes with a 9.0Kg/cm spring which is about right for a rider of about your weight ( I weigh about 100 Kg with gear and use a 9.5 rear spring with my TTX36 and TTX40). If you can read the numbers off the spring and relay them to me I will be happy to advise on the spring rate you have fitted.

The TTX36 is not just a race shock! It is the way all Ohlins shocks are going for the latest sports bikes.

The settings you have indicated are a little off the mark. You want to adjust the spring preload so that you have a rider static sag of about 6mm as a starting point (I run about 4mm buts a personal preference thing). Also you will almost certainly have to increase the compression setting by about 2 - 4 clicks over standard as a starting point.

it is very likely that the reason that the bikes feels harsh is because the static sag is set too low, and the compression adjuster is set too soft. While it is counter intuitive this will mean that the bike will be "blowing through its stroke" when hitting a bump and getting in to the part of the linkage where the rate starts to ramp up, this is what is making it feel harsh. So like I said its counter intuitive but you will have to add spring preload, and compression damping (assuming you have the stock spring) to make the bike feel softer!

The IMPORTANT thing to remember with these shocks is that they DO NOT need very much rebound adjustment!!!! It is VERY VERY easy to dial in too much rebound, in fact when you bounce on the bike with the stock rebound setting you will find the bike feels / looks loose in the rebound setting, don't be tempted to change it leave it alone, they look wrong but work very well!!
 

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Öhlins shocks (and the TTX in particular) are made for racing, not riding on a bumpy street. If they sprung the shock after you weight, they probably figured you would be racing it... And it's gonna feel very stiff while riding on the streets...
Sorry to disagree but the new Öhlins TTX36 while great on the track is very much a street shock too! In fact they shine best when the road surface is at its worst.

Around 80% of Öhlins shocks are used on the street, when racing on an Öhlins shock more often than not some small internal adjustments are required to best suit the demands of the track. ALL Öhlins suspension products (unless some of the very high end race only items) are speced and sold as street shocks!

In fact for the new K7 Suzuki Öhlins abandoned development of the older 46 PRXLS style shock for this bike, only the TTX36 is available.

Like I say sorry to disagree but it would be a pity for such a capable device to be considered only fit for race only. I had one of the first pre / early production units and I have to say with most of my milage on the street on some pretty rough roads, these are a big leap forward over conventional design shocks of any brand, in tire life, traction etc etc
 

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While it is counter intuitive this will mean that the bike will be "blowing through its stroke" when hitting a bump and getting in to the part of the linkage where the rate starts to ramp up, this is what is making it feel harsh.
Is it like the shock is starting to 'bottom out' ?

One thing I found with harsh riding conditon is that often the rebound is set too soft...so the spring compresses then decompresses quicker giving a sharper feel to a bump....Damping setting should be in harmony compression or rebound wise, no?
 

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Is it like the shock is starting to 'bottom out' ?
correct

One thing I found with harsh riding conditon is that often the rebound is set too soft...so the spring compresses then decompresses quicker giving a sharper feel to a bump....Damping setting should be in harmony compression or rebound wise, no?
correct again, and more importantly the front and rear should work in harmony if at all possible.

BD
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Dukester... you just made my day. I took my sag measurments without adjusting anything on the shock... straight outta the box.

I called a BMW shop today, and they said they could try to set it up for me sometime next week. he sounded like he knew what he was talking about. I'm going to reread dukes post a couple more times and play around with it...

I'll get those numbers for you tonight Duke...

Here's what the Mounting Instructions-set up Data read (I guess how they set it up):
spring preload- 11mm
Compression - 12 clicks
Rebound Damp- 16 clicks

and Katmanblues, stop Hijacking my thread bro... :)
 

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I'll take that as a thank you also :rolleyes:

11mm of preload is on the light side so more than likely when your done adjusting it for proper static and rider sag it'll be in the 15-16mm area which is just right for assembled preload.

BD
 
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