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Discussion Starter #1
im having a little bit of trouble finding the sweet spot with the suspension i weight 190 with all the equipment, does somebody have a setup for guidelines that i can follow.
the sag measures i put it by the ohlins book and the adjustment too but i feel the bike i little high from the front end, and when i brake the forks goes all the way to the end,

what can i do?
 

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Add preload in the spring or compression maybe a little of both
 

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Crash Test Dummy
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im having a little bit of trouble finding the sweet spot with the suspension i weight 190 with all the equipment, does somebody have a setup for guidelines that i can follow.
the sag measures i put it by the ohlins book and the adjustment too but i feel the bike i little high from the front end, and when i brake the forks goes all the way to the end,

what can i do?
The ohlins 30mm will bring the ride hight up a few mm in the front. Start with rechecking your rear/ front sag settings/damping and go from there. If your bottoming the forks after applying the brakes, Then something Is definitely wrong or your sag settings off. Shoot us your static and rider sag numbers rear shock set up and numbers. I weighed 190 fully geared as well if you'd like pm me your phone number an I'll give you my settings. I had 30mm front and Penske rear.
 

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Need a lot more info.

To start with..

Street bike or track bike? /Track? Pace?
Oil height?
Fork position? Measure from axle centre to the top of bottom yoke at FULL stretch.
Shock length?
Spring?
Installed Preload?
Stock link?
Shim?
Tyres?
Fork Internal preload?
Topout springs?

All that aside.

Probably best to speak to the person who fitted the carts, If they are a true suspension tech... they should have given a good "base" to start at.
 

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Ive notice a few gentlemen mentioning about link with TTX?

Please explain and does it really help?
The after market linkages alter the rising rate of the swingarm to make it more linear. The ZX-10R linkage specifically is a little more tricky than most other links due to the initial start rate it requires so that also had to be factored into the equation

There are several different brands of aftermarket links out there on the market for the Gen4. I sell and use the Kyle Racing Link and Ohlins products so anything I say will sound biased, but it helps immensely as long as you know how to set up the internal valving spec in the TTX to match the new rate of the linear race link which we do. The back end of the bike instantly becomes super compliant and offers a lot more grip when exiting the turn also cleans up the tire wear and improves the life to a large degree.

I know a lot of riders that have installed other brands of linkages as well as other brands of shocks and quite frankly from what they have told me they are really chasing their tails trying to get the correct set-up. In their defense there are a lot of variables to sort out when you have a new linkage + new shock + different valving in that shock combined with unknown geometry requirements because the linkages and the shock valving + spring etc is all going to cause the swingarm to ride in a different area of the stroke of the shock than it did originally. It's a lot to figure out if you are doing all your own set-up.

The Link we manufacture and sell is designed by suspension/geometry and Ohlins Expert Jon Cornwell. With him comes the advantage of testing feedback from all the pro racers so basically we know the valving specs and geoemetry settings to make this link instant bolt-on go fast goodness.
 

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I had Cyclemall in Orange county set up my Ohlin's 30's and I have an Elka in the rear, new springs, etc....bike exits really well and rides very compliant...riding Bumpywillow is like riding a freeway...bike just flys over the bumps....
 

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the 30 mil kits have a top out spring that makes them sit up higher initially, no real way around that... and it makes them hard to get "normal" sag numbers in place.

put a zip tie on the fork leg, and watch the travel.

know where mechanical bottom is, and add spring preload to get the bike to travel the zip tie 10-15mm above mechanical bottom.

if you cant do it with the springs in it, you may need the next stiffer spring, and or higher fluid level as suggested above. Ski
 
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