A friend of mine did this mod on my bike.he took the plug next to the little window where you check oil.he put a fitting in it and ran a steel braided line to the top of clutch cover,drilled cover and put a fitting in it hooked it all up and it poors oil on the clutches at all times.he said he has done 50 or 60 bikes and that when clutches go bad the will still look new,the only way to tell they are bad is the stack height
new mod to keep clutch cool
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according to the guy that done it,it works good.he has done 50 or 60 bikes and i asked him out of all the bikes he done how many blew he said none.he came highly recommended to.from what i here he builds turbo bikes and makes his own parts
alright i will try that tommorrow and let you now
one more thing, ithink there is oil on the clutch plates at all times. that what wet sump is (referring to crank). but as the oil squirts and splashes in the pan it gets on the clutch. i tried looking at the clutch plates with the engine running (looking through the oil fill hole) and oil was coming out of the fill hole (not alot - just sprinkles).
i dont mean to sound like a dick about the mod, but thats what i have experienced so far.
i dont mean to sound like a dick about the mod, but thats what i have experienced so far.
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12,730 Posts
I have seen this dont but only as a place to return turbo oil. The input shaft has a oiling hold that exit's out of the shaft and directly into the clutch pack which centrifugally will splash outward. I think this oil mod will only hit maybe the outisde of the pack and just fling off.
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268 Posts
This is just my :2cents:, But any oil added too the outside of a spinning clutch pack will just fling off. Clutches are oiled from the inside and the oil slings outward. Not to mention the oil galleys on the right side of the by the crank were the plug is that he tied into feeds oil to the head ( cams ) so if that takes enough pressure away from that galley you will need a new head and cams in the future. That hose is lower than the head and fluids will follow the path of least resistance.
the guy seemed liek he new what he was talking about.he worked at a dealership as a mechanic then with a guy named buch dickerson or something like that.several of my friends recomended him said he new what he was talking about .i dont know
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1,803 Posts
I do some motorcycle work on the side and this is a "popular mod" for the R1's, they are known to get overheated clutches from poor oil flow. Wonder why my friends R1 #4 connecting rod bearing went out also?? Same problem, poor oil flow or starvation.
I will post up a few pics that I remember seeing.
I will post up a few pics that I remember seeing.
did this mod cause your friends connecting rod bearing to go out
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2,137 Posts
I think it's snake oil... any percieved difference would just be from you wanting to see a difference... don't think it really helps or hurts one way or the other.
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umm. damn no, I didn't mean that.:headshake No, I meant that some R1s have been known to have a noisy clutch basket, some have used this oil line mod to help cool the clutch basket area in hopes that it will keep the clutches cooler and quieter.
I personally know of 2 R1s that have had connecting rod issues from "riding hard" causing the oil starvation to the right side of the motor.
Like others have said, the clutch is oiled from the inside. As it spins the oil works it way to the outside of the clutch. I don't see how adding oil the the outside edge is going to do sh!t. If it was dumping enough oil to do something which is highly doubtful, it would be stealing it from somewhere else.
At best, I would say this does nothing. At worst, it could cause serious damage. I would be plugging that sh!t up. The fact that this guy works for a dealership tends to prove he is an idiot, not the other way.
At best, I would say this does nothing. At worst, it could cause serious damage. I would be plugging that sh!t up. The fact that this guy works for a dealership tends to prove he is an idiot, not the other way.
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1,803 Posts
This is what I found out about the clutch cover mod.
This is from the guys at McCoys or tobefast.com so they maybe trying to sell something here;
New CLUTCH mod 04-06 R1...
Last year we started doing some advanced testing with the clutches on our
R1s .. We were lucky to get 4-5 drag strip passes on our nitrous and turbo race bikes without completely destroying our clutches. So Pop's and Jerry started experimenting with oiling systems using braided steel lines and hosing with HUGE sucess. Our passes at the drag strips are just about endless now on the nitrous bikes. We've had other drag racers that we've worked with that have used the systems with great SUCESS also. The key is that they oil the clutches continuously in the stock situation they stay dry causing the quick burn. The latest generation gets utilize Galfer lines that are available in colors. The oil caps are pre threaded to accept the lines and the only modifaction needed is that you drill and tap your stock clutch cover to accept the oiling line at the top. Street or track riders with extreme clutch troubles can benifit from this mod also. We've gotten 0% bad feedback from the this mod..
ENJOY!
I do also know that R1s tend to run 10-15 degrees hotter then my same year 05' zx10r. I would be running 180-185 and an 06-07 R1s were running 200+ running side by side on the roads. So they made need the extra help....:dontknow:
This is from the guys at McCoys or tobefast.com so they maybe trying to sell something here;
New CLUTCH mod 04-06 R1...
Last year we started doing some advanced testing with the clutches on our
R1s .. We were lucky to get 4-5 drag strip passes on our nitrous and turbo race bikes without completely destroying our clutches. So Pop's and Jerry started experimenting with oiling systems using braided steel lines and hosing with HUGE sucess. Our passes at the drag strips are just about endless now on the nitrous bikes. We've had other drag racers that we've worked with that have used the systems with great SUCESS also. The key is that they oil the clutches continuously in the stock situation they stay dry causing the quick burn. The latest generation gets utilize Galfer lines that are available in colors. The oil caps are pre threaded to accept the lines and the only modifaction needed is that you drill and tap your stock clutch cover to accept the oiling line at the top. Street or track riders with extreme clutch troubles can benifit from this mod also. We've gotten 0% bad feedback from the this mod..
ENJOY!
I do also know that R1s tend to run 10-15 degrees hotter then my same year 05' zx10r. I would be running 180-185 and an 06-07 R1s were running 200+ running side by side on the roads. So they made need the extra help....:dontknow:
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i'm not a motorcycle mechanic, but i am an aircraft mechanic. some things are just universal. as i see it, getting oil to the clutch in a way other than the way the manufacturer uses could be a good idea, and if you can do it without starving another component, then by all means feel free. as far as getting the oul to the center of the clutch plates, the only time this will happen is when you sit still with the clutch pulled in, otherwise the tranny is spinning too, because the clutch plates are pressing the flywheel to spin the tranny. the only benifit i can see this creating is during stop and go driving through the city. which incidentally, is hardest on your clutch, because it has to constantly work to upshift and downshift. however, when sitting still, the engine gets hotter, and the oil has to come from somewhere, so there is probably a part that needs it more than your flywheel. one remedy for this may be to simply add a little extra oil, say just enough to compensate for the added volume of the line. and inder the assumption that the two cavities are connected, the only thing the line does at this point is provide a very small orifice for the clutch to throw oil at, pushing it back to the other side of the bike opposite the intended direction of flow, and not allowing it to take it's normal return path, which could also raise some problems, if it takes enough. now please keep in mind when you read this that i'm not a bike mechanic, just an aircraft mechanic, so some things could be different.
he worked at a dealship he is no longer there and is buillding turbo bikes and making his own parts for them.so he must no something
i was just checking,with the opinions im getting here i just want to make sure my bike aint going to blow up
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