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Hello guys im new here i just sold my 100rr 05 and got a kawasaki zx10r gen 4. I have a r1 2009 it had cct problem and clutch problem all that is fixed now and its very nice bike. The zx10r is also very nice bike, so im happy so far. But now i see this damn bike also have cct problem :angryfire: damn japanese cant thy make good ccts :thefinger_red: Its okey i did every mod on my r1 buy my self. So it cant be hader on zx10r :smile2:

So i have recorded a video on my zx10r (cold start) and wonder if this is how it should sound or do i need cct mode on this zx10r.

https://youtu.be/3svdJ8O_024
 

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Welcome new guy.

And yes that noise is the CCT. I've had mine replaced on the Gen 5 under warranty for the newly designed one. There is still however a slight sound of it.
Your one doesn't sound super bad, but it'd be worth checking out. May just need tightening.
 

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Welcome new guy.

And yes that noise is the CCT. I've had mine replaced on the Gen 5 under warranty for the newly designed one. There is still however a slight sound of it.
Your one doesn't sound super bad, but it'd be worth checking out. May just need tightening.
Thanks, is there a new on for gen 4 also if so what part nr ?
 

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Hi! :welcome::eek:ccasion1

may check out this forum post.. http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f28/cam-chain-tensioner-6933.html

quick search and there is alot of post about cct.

one i posted has several post about either replacing with a manual one or you can try to tighten the automatic one with taking it out to manually move it or rolling the bike back and forth to get it to automatically tighten. :grin2:
 

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Welcome!

The Gen 5 CCT is new and for 2016 and apparently has some issues extending properly. It's different than the Gen 4.

Adjusting the Gen 4 one is fairly easy. Remove the right lower fairing, take the spring retaining bolt out of the CCT and remove the spring. Put a small screw driver or allen key, or any type of small rod. Push the rod lightly and you should feel the CCT plunger extend a notch maybe two. Put the spring and bolt back in. The procedure should take less than 30 mins and one of these days I'll get around to making a video of how to do it. If you remove the entire CCT, then you'll need to reset it and extend the plunger in the motor like I'm describing.

Depending on where the motor winds up when you turn it off, it would be best if you remove take the timing cover off and rotate the crank by hand with a wrench while doing this. This will help get the cams in the proper position as to keep the front side of the cam chain run under tension. Again, it's pretty simple and should quiet it down quite a bit.
 

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Hi! :welcome::eek:ccasion1

may check out this forum post.. http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f28/cam-chain-tensioner-6933.html

quick search and there is alot of post about cct.

one i posted has several post about either replacing with a manual one or you can try to tighten the automatic one with taking it out to manually move it or rolling the bike back and forth to get it to automatically tighten. :grin2:
Thanks, Yes i know i have seen many post on this forum about the cct. Thats why i ask if my sounds bad or normal.

Welcome!

The Gen 5 CCT is new and for 2016 and apparently has some issues extending properly. It's different than the Gen 4.

Adjusting the Gen 4 one is fairly easy. Remove the right lower fairing, take the spring retaining bolt out of the CCT and remove the spring. Put a small screw driver or allen key, or any type of small rod. Push the rod lightly and you should feel the CCT plunger extend a notch maybe two. Put the spring and bolt back in. The procedure should take less than 30 mins and one of these days I'll get around to making a video of how to do it. If you remove the entire CCT, then you'll need to reset it and extend the plunger in the motor like I'm describing.

Depending on where the motor winds up when you turn it off, it would be best if you remove take the timing cover off and rotate the crank by hand with a wrench while doing this. This will help get the cams in the proper position as to keep the front side of the cam chain run under tension. Again, it's pretty simple and should quiet it down quite a bit.
Thanks, So i should only remove the big cap and force it to click with somthing that fits in the hole ? do i feel when it clicks this way ? and is there no risk to overthight it this way ? Dos my bike sound bad or is this normal kawa sound ? i love this bike almost more then my r1 :wink:
 

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Well, can't add any more the CCT thing.. :idea:

:welcome: Coca!
 

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Thanks, Yes i know i have seen many post on this forum about the cct. Thats why i ask if my sounds bad or normal.







Thanks, So i should only remove the big cap and force it to click with somthing that fits in the hole ? do i feel when it clicks this way ? and is there no risk to overthight it this way ? Dos my bike sound bad or is this normal kawa sound ? i love this bike almost more then my r1 :wink:

Yup. You don't need to put a lot of pressure on it. No risk of over tightening it this way. You'll feel it or hear it click if you take up any of the slack and it should quiet it down some.

And no, that doesn't sound normal.
 

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Yup. You don't need to put a lot of pressure on it. No risk of over tightening it this way. You'll feel it or hear it click if you take up any of the slack and it should quiet it down some.

And no, that doesn't sound normal.
Ok thanks i will try this and see what happens.

here is a pic of my 2 beasts.
 

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Yup. You don't need to put a lot of pressure on it. No risk of over tightening it this way. You'll feel it or hear it click if you take up any of the slack and it should quiet it down some.

And no, that doesn't sound normal.
I forgot to ask you when i do this is the engine suppos to be running or not ?
 

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I forgot to ask you when i do this is the engine suppos to be running or not ?
While you could do it with the engine running, you probably shouldn't. Try it with the engine off and see if it will click for you when you push on it. If you don't want to remove the timing cover and rotate the crank by hand, then try bumping the starter button a few times while pushing the plunger slightly after you do it initially. This will hopefully reorient the cam lobes so the spring force from the valves help make the front of the chain to tighten and leave the backside slack enough to get the CCT to extend while you're pressing it. A click or 2 is about all you'll need to quiet it down.
 

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While you could do it with the engine running, you probably shouldn't. Try it with the engine off and see if it will click for you when you push on it. If you don't want to remove the timing cover and rotate the crank by hand, then try bumping the starter button a few times while pushing the plunger slightly after you do it initially. This will hopefully reorient the cam lobes so the spring force from the valves help make the front of the chain to tighten and leave the backside slack enough to get the CCT to extend while you're pressing it. A click or 2 is about all you'll need to quiet it down.
Ok im on it but before i remove the bolt i wounder how do u guys fit a torq wrench in there to torq it 20nm ?? if i remove the coolant hose the plastic is in the way. :idea:
 

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Ok im on it but before i remove the bolt i wounder how do u guys fit a torq wrench in there to torq it 20nm ?? if i remove the coolant hose the plastic is in the way. :idea:
It's a tight fit, but you don't have to remove anything. Just squeeze the rubber coolant hose a bit and go in at an angle to it when inserting the tool to push the plunger out a bit. I found that a 3" quarter drive ratchet extension works the best.

When removing that bolt, just work it out with your fingers and take the spring out with it. There's no reason to fit a torque wrench on it. It doesn't need to be torqued accurately. The torque spec on it is so low that a crescent wrench hand snugged up hand tight will exceed the spec. The bolt is only there to hold the spring in and doesn't support any load on it.
 

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It's a tight fit, but you don't have to remove anything. Just squeeze the rubber coolant hose a bit and go in at an angle to it when inserting the tool to push the plunger out a bit. I found that a 3" quarter drive ratchet extension works the best.

When removing that bolt, just work it out with your fingers and take the spring out with it. There's no reason to fit a torque wrench on it. It doesn't need to be torqued accurately. The torque spec on it is so low that a crescent wrench hand snugged up hand tight will exceed the spec. The bolt is only there to hold the spring in and doesn't support any load on it.

Thanks for all help. Today i removed the pluger and fited a hex key in the hole but nothing happend, i dident hear a click, i only felt resistans so i dident want to push any harder. I havent started the bike yet i will do it later when i change oil and filter. Is there any risk that the spring miss the rod if i put in the rod first ?
 

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Thanks for all help. Today i removed the pluger and fited a hex key in the hole but nothing happend, i dident hear a click, i only felt resistans so i dident want to push any harder. I havent started the bike yet i will do it later when i change oil and filter. Is there any risk that the spring miss the rod if i put in the rod first ?
So, based on that, the cams were likely not orientated correctly (valve spring force trying to roll the cams back) and there just wasn't enough slack on the back side of the chain to get it too extend. This is part of the problem as to why the spring itself is unable to extend the plunger.

Yes, don't put the rod in first. Put the spring back in and then the rod inside the spring.

You're pretty close to getting this fixed, but here's what I'd suggest at this point. Remove the timing cover off the right side. Remove the bolts and very carefully separate the cover from the motor. If you're careful and don't tear the gasket, it will be easy. The sensor is attached to the cover so just let it hang out of the way. Once removed, you'll be looking at the crank position wheel and the timing chain behind it. The bolt holding the timing wheel is the crank bolt. Put a socket on it and rotate the crankshaft by hand clockwise. While you're doing this rotating, use your other hand to extend out the CCT plunger. You should feel it click a notch or 2. Even if you stop rotating the crank, keep tension on the wrench. This will ensure that the front chain run is always under tension and the backside is left slacked.

Here is a pic of my motor when I had it out of the bike to help you understand what I'm referring to.


In the above pic, the blue arc represents the black plastic cam chain guide that's in the motor. It is only bolted in at the bottom and acts as the pivot point for it. The CCT presses against the back of this chain guide to keep the chain tight. The red represents how to rotate the crank so that the cams will re-orientate. If the cam lobes wind up starting to open the valves, the valve springs are trying to rotate the cams backwards. This causes too much tension on the chain where it shouldn't be and you can't push the CCT plunger out against this force. By rotating the crank with your right hand and taking the tension off the backside of the chain, your left hand is free to push the plunger out a notch or 2.

Also, with the bike on the sidestand, removing the timing cover won't cause you to lose any oil. There's no need to do anything other than removing the 6 bolts for the cover and carefully removing it.
 

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Okey now i understand why it dident click. How many Times' should i crank the timing chain over ? If it click 1 time should I keep spinning the timing chain until I feel the same resistance as before or should I stop after 1click ? Thanks agent mate for all feed back. I Will do this as soon I'm back from my vacation ;)
 
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