New better clutch

OEM makes a good clutch... if your primary concern is clamping force just get stronger springs.

SpazOnaZX said:

OEM makes a good clutch... if your primary concern is clamping force just get stronger springs.

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I did get barnett springs a while ago, but never put them in. was thinking that maybe now with a few thousand miles it might be good to swap clutch plates.

Eh, measure/inspect them... if they're good you can save yourself some cash.

Mine was slipping at high rpm. Replaced it with an EBC and its been working great. The Barnett springs will give you a heavier clutch pull at the lever. If you do a lot of street riding it could get annoying at the traffic lights.

TechnologistX said:

Mine was slipping at high rpm. Replaced it with an EBC and its been working great. The Barnett springs will give you a heavier clutch pull at the lever. If you do a lot of street riding it could get annoying at the traffic lights.

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This was exactly what I was worried about. I love the way the lever feels now, any heavier and riding around traffic spots will be horrid. Which EBC did you get and what's the difference between EBC and DP?

Weather looks like shit this weekend. I think I'll drive out to a tore, get a clutch cover gasket and oil, then put in 2 or 3 barnett springs and play with the lever to see how it is. If its not very noticeable, put it all back with oil and test for slip. At that point if it still slips even a bit, I'll try new plates.

If its slipping you just need new oem clutch. They are fine.
Ps if you use the clutch to change gear in high rpm it will slip.

OEM is best....

have not seen in my years a aftermarket work better than oem. also stiffer springs make the slipper clutch function work differently..

F SANE IL said:

This was exactly what I was worried about. I love the way the lever feels now, any heavier and riding around traffic spots will be horrid. Which EBC did you get and what's the difference between EBC and DP?

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I went with the EBC SRK Race/Sport clutch kit. I didn't need the whole kit just got the fibers. I don't know if there's much difference between EBC and DP. Went with EBC because I have used them in the past with good results.

mpp12 said:

OEM is best....

have not seen in my years a aftermarket work better than oem. also stiffer springs make the slipper clutch function work differently..

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"different" how? Will i screw anything up?

My only and main concern is that when I'm in a straight line against any other liter bike, my clutch starts to slip and bike revs up and i'm just standing still while all other bikes leave me. this can't happen..

On a serious note, its just real annoying when I want to just punch it and it goes nowhere except just rev like its getting angry

F SANE IL said:

"different" how? Will i screw anything up?

My only and main concern is that when I'm in a straight line against any other liter bike, my clutch starts to slip and bike revs up and i'm just standing still while all other bikes leave me. this can't happen..

On a serious note, its just real annoying when I want to just punch it and it goes nowhere except just rev like its getting angry

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This doesnt happen if you have a standard clutch that isnt worn. Unless your clutch cable has been adjusted up so there is no slack of course

ukzx10r said:

This doesn't happen if you have a standard clutch that isnt worn. Unless your clutch cable has been adjusted up so there is no slack of course

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Agree, but I think its been the case since day one. I just never beat on the bike for first 500 miles so i didn't notice any slipping, but after the oil change maybe after second oil change i started noticing it. When i say "beat on the bike" meaning going over 9k rpm.

I did check the clutch adjustment to make sure its not full tight.

If your clutch has slipped since day one it might be possible that the clutch cable is incorrectly adjusted?

I remember several years ago that some new owners of R1's were having clutch plate problems that resulted in bikes returning to dealers to have the plates replaced or soaked in oil overnight. A mechanic at the time threw out the theory that it was caused by not riding the bike hard enough during break-in.

For sure something is not right, the ZX clutch under normal operation doesn't slip all the way up to redline.

Call up Dwayne at Cycle Concepts at (803) 285-8093 and he'll get you setup with a good clutch. I run Brock's heavy duty springs as well as 3 of the cycle concepts super stiff springs. I'm pretty used to the feel now, but when I rode a friends with the stock springs mine was definitely a lot stiffer.

You don't have to drain the oil on the gen 4's to do the clutch nor do you really need the get a new gasket. I've had my clutch cover off at least 10 times over the past 2 summers and have never replaced the gasket and haven't had any leaks.

C3L1CA said:

Call up Dwayne at Cycle Concepts at (803) 285-8093 and he'll get you setup with a good clutch.

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iv been considering this setup since the stock clutch only lasted me a day at the strip, only thing is does it still act as a slipper for track days?

I never use the clutch unless complete stop. But I have zero reason for hard starts yet I can report that I get the feeling of a weak clutch with just a regular for me start; no evidence of clutch slipping or failure, yet.

Thanks guys. Still haven't been able to get to check anything. Can this be confirmed that I can open clutch cover without oil loss?

I'm running ebc discs, springs and Barnett plates. Feels like stock but it does feel a little different in the lower rpm range. Kinda feels like its slipping but its not. Like if I do 75% throttle pulls or roll ons in first to keep the front down, rpms goes up, holds at a certain rpm as the speed increases. Just weird how the rpm holds instead of increases. I'll try to get a video of it tomorrow. I confirmed its not slipping by going to a higher gear, low rpm and it was fine.