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'16 ZX-10R KRT
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Thanks for the reply. Quick question - is the 08-10 ZX10R flywheel bespoke to that generation or will other gens of ZX10R flywheel work?
The rotor is only the same from 2008-2010. No other years or models use that exact rotor.
 
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09 ZX10R Anniversary Edition
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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

Alright well the new flywheel should be here Friday, along with new header crush gaskets and a new oil pickup screen. I tried to soak and clean my current pick up screen but there is a few specks still in there that I could pick out if I wanted to, but I cant see the middle part of the screen to see what else may be in there so I decided to not take the chance and just ordered a new one.

So in other words, I'm about to button it back together. I did not check the rod bearing caps but I did get up under the bike with a LED light and inspected the oil pump rotation. I rotated the crank slowly and inspected the oil pump gear and lobe, it looks spotless in there. I'm on the fence about pulling the clutch basket and pulling the oil pump out after the incident earlier this year with my clutch basket. I know it doesn't say much but the rest of the internals look super clean. What concerned me though is I ran a magnet over the crankshaft lobe closest to the flywheel. I did pull a small spec of metal off the lobe with a magnet, but for what it's worth that lobe is mostly closed off from the rest of the crankshaft as there is a case wall that separates them. It makes sense to me that part of that stator got through the case and stuck directly to that crankshaft lobe without going through the oil system.

So this big question for me right now is oil/startup. My buddy recommended putting the oil pan back on, pour the 3.7 quarts of some fresh oil in there, let it sit in the pan for a minute and then drain it through a screen/filter while it is draining, check the screen and then put the oil back in there and repeat the process. I was thinking I could even manually rotate the crank a couple of times off the flywheel bolt.

Then drop the oil pan and check the oil pan. If all good, put it all back together and put fresh oil in there and start it up.

 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
'16 ZX-10R KRT
Joined
·
15,945 Posts
Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

Alright well the new flywheel should be here Friday, along with new header crush gaskets and a new oil pickup screen. I tried to soak and clean my current pick up screen but there is a few specks still in there that I could pick out if I wanted to, but I cant see the middle part of the screen to see what else may be in there so I decided to not take the chance and just ordered a new one.

So in other words, I'm about to button it back together. I did not check the rod bearing caps but I did get up under the bike with a LED light and inspected the oil pump rotation. I rotated the crank slowly and inspected the oil pump gear and lobe, it looks spotless in there. I'm on the fence about pulling the clutch basket and pulling the oil pump out after the incident earlier this year with my clutch basket. I know it doesn't say much but the rest of the internals look super clean. What concerned me though is I ran a magnet over the crankshaft lobe closest to the flywheel. I did pull a small spec of metal off the lobe with a magnet, but for what it's worth that lobe is mostly closed off from the rest of the crankshaft as there is a case wall that separates them. It makes sense to me that part of that stator got through the case and stuck directly to that crankshaft lobe without going through the oil system.

So this big question for me right now is oil/startup. My buddy recommended putting the oil pan back on, pour the 3.7 quarts of some fresh oil in there, let it sit in the pan for a minute and then drain it through a screen/filter while it is draining, check the screen and then put the oil back in there and repeat the process. I was thinking I could even manually rotate the crank a couple of times off the flywheel bolt.

Then drop the oil pan and check the oil pan. If all good, put it all back together and put fresh oil in there and start it up.
Yeah, that plan won't do anything. It's a dry sump. Putting the pan back on it full of oil won't do anything. The crank will never come in contact with the oil. The only thing that would do is possibly get the 4th cylinder connecting rod a little on it as it flows to the sump when you fill it. That's it.

You don't have to pull the clutch unless you want to replace the oil pump drive gear. The oil pump is behind the water pump and has nothing to do with the clutch. Everything is done on the left side of the motor for that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I went ahead and put the oil pan all back together with the cleaned-out oil screen pickup. Torqued all the bolts down, re-installed the headers, torqued everything down to spec. Re-installed the radiator and hoses. As I was finishing up, the new flywheel came in the mail so I installed that and torqued it down per spec, then installed the stator cover w/ the new stator. I put silicone sealant around the wire grommet from the stator as the manual says. I filled the cooling system with distilled water, and put 3.7ish quarts of oil in there. Re-attached battery and started her up. The ol girl cranked right up. I let her idle until temps were hovering around 195 F, the fan kicked on as it should and kept idle temps around that range.


On a side note, it appears that overheating-at-idle issue is fixed as well, which I think was from that bad stator was not able to give the battery enough volts to kick on the fan and keep the bike cool at idle. But I digress. Bike sounded good and healthy, I got er warmed up and gave her a couple of revs.

So I am getting some new crush washer gaskets (header) and a new oil pickup on Monday. So now I am going to drain the oil, drain water remove the radiator again, remove the headers and drop the oil pan and inspect the pickup and oil pan. If all looks good (i expect it to), I am going to reinstall oil pan with the brand new pickup screen, radiator and hoses, put fresh distilled water with water wetter, install those new crush washers in the header and put some fresh lucas oil 10W-40 and a new OEM Kawasaki oil filter. Then I'm going to button her up and go for a shakedown ride

Noticed a slight weezing noise on deccel of RPM's, not sure what that is about. I think, based on my limited knowledge, that maybe there is a slight exhaust leak from temporarily re-using those crush washers, and maybe it's sucking in a little air at the header or something on RPM decel. At least I hope that is what it is.


Overall super happy and proud of myself for following the manual and taking my time and putting it back together. Slightly concerned about that wheezing-ish noise though
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Okay well good news, I put the fresh stator in, put a brand new oil pickup in, buttoned it all back together, put the fairings back on etc and went for a rip last night in the bike felt really good. Also rode it this morning and it's running really strong. I did reuse the oil pan gasket which I'm kind of nervous about but so far it's not leaking. I did order a new one with some fresh oil pan bolts and I'll probably swap it out at first sign of it leaking, if it does. The bike does feel a little flatter than usual in the really low RPMs, it's missing that twitchy throttle response down real low, but it has been extremely cold out and I'm not sure if it's just in my head or not. It's definitely make it full power everywhere else though. And the best part, the battery is staying charged lmao. Another lesson learned and now I understand even more about the bike.

Wheel Tire Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive fuel system
 
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