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Yes I'm just a bit puzzled because only 10millie amps was coming up which is nothing. I will have to do a battery test to be sure I guess before I search further. 3 different batteries and the same issue just leads me to think it's not that. Although it is my first time owning a 1000 and I guess they're harder to start but I still think this is not normal operating.
 

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I was thinking that's how its tested. So if it keeps running in 1st with the stand down it needs replacing yes?
Yes, that's correct. The engine should stop when the sidestand is put down. If it doesn't, then you can do a continuity check on that switch or replace it. It might just need to be adjusted if the switch has physically shifted in the mount at all. The continuity check should tell you that. Either way, that should trigger an engine shutdown if the sidestand goes down.
 

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Ok thanks very much, I will check them and then maybe get a video off starter issue because a lot easier to understand when actually seeing yourself. I work on cars but I rarely have had to do any maintenance other than servicing and that so I'm just not too familiar with the bike electricals too much. I understand it all but obviously differing bikes have different operating principles and stuff so it's good to know now what way they work.
 

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I checked the bike and it was the clutch switch, the switch was dirty at the sliding contact and where it meets at the lever so cleaned all that but the tab at the loom side was bent right down as if someone had bypassed it before and squashed the pin so I bent that back up and then made sure the lever was adjusted correctly.

But heres the main problem that I'm saying I'm having the battery was at 12.7 after settling, all I did was tap the starter button in 1st to see if it would crank and it did so i literally didnt even crank the bike really, double checked it was still at 12.7 and it was, so put it in neutral and tried to start the bike and it turned a little bit and then the solenoid just started clicking. Even a weak battery should turn it over more than that I think. I even put the meter on the battery after trying to crank it and it was down to 12.2 volts and I watched it when I hit the starter and it dropped to 4.5 volts on cranking. That's a huge drop.

Once battery is ok, Should I start checking voltage drop from battery to starter solenoid and to starter and then after probably pull the starter out then.
 

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I checked the bike and it was the clutch switch, the switch was dirty at the sliding contact and where it meets at the lever so cleaned all that but the tab at the loom side was bent right down as if someone had bypassed it before and squashed the pin so I bent that back up and then made sure the lever was adjusted correctly.
That's good. That's one problem out of the way and an easy fix for that. (y)

But heres the main problem that I'm saying I'm having the battery was at 12.7 after settling, all I did was tap the starter button in 1st to see if it would crank and it did so i literally didnt even crank the bike really, double checked it was still at 12.7 and it was, so put it in neutral and tried to start the bike and it turned a little bit and then the solenoid just started clicking. Even a weak battery should turn it over more than that I think. I even put the meter on the battery after trying to crank it and it was down to 12.2 volts and I watched it when I hit the starter and it dropped to 4.5 volts on cranking. That's a huge drop.

Once battery is ok, Should I start checking voltage drop from battery to starter solenoid and to starter and then after probably pull the starter out then.
To me, that would indicate the battery is damaged internally. It can't support the amperage needed and is dying off too quickly. Checking the voltage any farther won't really tell you much as the voltage should be consistent and it's the amperage draw that it can't support at that voltage is the problem.

The solenoid should connect the starter motor directly to the battery. It's basically just a remote controlled switch to link the starter directly to the battery and pull it's power from there. The bike is a 12 volt negative ground system. There is only one terminal on it for the positive lead. It uses the casing and the engine crankcase for the negative return lead on it.

There are a couple checks on the starter motor itself and the battery. Use a set of jumper cables and connect the positive battery terminal to the starter motor terminal. Connect it at the starter first. As soon as you touch the other end to the positive terminal on the battery, the starter will spin. You've bypassed the solenoid that way and you can see how fast the starter spins for a short time. If it's spins slowly, the battery isn't putting out the amperage needed.

The next step would be to actually jumpstart it off another battery. That will tell you more about the starter itself. If it cranks right up from that, that is also an indication of the battery having the issue.

When you crank the starter for a few seconds, touch it with your hand. It's a brushed motor from that year. If the starter is too hot to touch after a short time, it may have a problem with the brushes internally. The graphite wears off and produces graphite dust in it. That's an indication that there is too much of that dust in the casing and it is getting dragged down from that and overheating in the process. You can remove the starter motor and take it apart to clean that out if that's the case and clean it up.

I would suggest doing those things unless you have an ammeter handy. You have to connect that in-between the battery and starter to measure the current going to the starter. A standard multi-meter can't measure that. Measuring the voltage at this point won't troubleshoot it any further.
 

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Ok I should be able to get an amp clamp onto the cable to see, I will try another charged motorcycle battery too if I can. I dont mind pulling the starter out but I will just have to get the gaskets first before I go near the cover.
 

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Skydork I fully charged my battery overnight and brought it in this morning and put it on the battery tester for 200amps and it came up bad straight away. Voltage dropped from 12.7 to 7 volts on first test straight away. So that's getting covered under warranty.
But I'm thinking the rubber securing strap for the battery is not in the bike, do you think this is causing batteries to fail. That's my 2and yuasa
 

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But I'm thinking the rubber securing strap for the battery is not in the bike, do you think this is causing batteries to fail. That's my 2and yuasa
The battery isn't secured with the hold-down strap? You mean it's just set in the tray and connected with the terminals? Yeah, that can lead to premature failure of the battery. It will vibrate, bounce, and slide in the tray when in motion. That can damage the lead plates inside of it. It should be secured for sure.
 

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Yep that's probably what's happened. And I dont really drive calmly🤣 It was like that since I bought it and I only happened to see the strap yesterday under the passenger seat, so I'm gonna put some padding down there and the strap on the new battery and just to be sure check it with an amp clamp after and hopefully all is well then.
 

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Yep that's probably what's happened. And I dont really drive calmly🤣 It was like that since I bought it and I only happened to see the strap yesterday under the passenger seat, so I'm gonna put some padding down there and the strap on the new battery and just to be sure check it with an amp clamp after and hopefully all is well then.
Sticky backed velcro works ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
So in regards to my issue:

Came back from the field early, unexpectedly (wife is within a couple weeks of giving birth to our third child), she started have cramps/pains so I pushed it up chain of command and now Im back home lol. So I took the bike out today, first ride in almost two weeks.

A couple of times I rolled the throttle and the bike felt flat in the lower RPM's - flatter than usual. It started coming on just fine though as the RPM's climbed. Didn't seem like a big deal at the time but I made a mental note of it. Other than that, bike was running fine. I wound her out a few times, got the RPM's up.

When I was coming home, I was stopped at the last stop light before I come towards my house. I noticed that despite it being 45 degrees outside, the bike had been idling for maybe 3-4 minutes and it was already at 227 degrees. This is the second time the temp has really climbed at idle. So at the stop light I killed the bike to be safe. And I quickly remembered the entire point of riding is to diagnose the potential stator/rectifier issue. And sure as shit I went to start the bike and I got a real slow crank and it wasn't enough to turn it over. Damn. I turned around and rolled the bike down a small hill and bumpstarted it and rode it home, parked her in the garage and checked battery voltage and it was down to 12.0 amps. The battery is on a tender right now to get it back up to full charge but it looks like the bike is gonna need a new stator/rectifier. I know the issue could be specifically with stator or rectifier but from what I've read, if you are going to replace one, they both need to be replaced.

On a tight budget right now, but these new, unbranded $50 stator/rectifier combos on ebay raise some obvious red flags. I know Rick's is good but it's close to $200 just for the stator. Gonna have to play with some finances here lol

 

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Welcome back!

In 45 degree weather, there should be no reason the coolant temp got up that high. You've got an issue with that. For future reference, you shouldn't shut a hot motor down like that. The water pump stops circulating the fluid and it can create hotspots. Leave it running with the fan going unless it will run away on you. The better option is to start moving for the airflow. Not always easy in traffic, but you have to force it on the shoulder, nearby parking lot, right turn, etc. You've got an issue there that needs to be addressed.

Whoever told you to replace both the stator and rectifier is wrong. You don't need to do that unless both are actually bad. If you're on a budget with the kid coming, figure out which it is and get a quality part rather than 2 cheap ones. Since it will be too cold to ride it for a while, you can spend some time troubleshooting it more and saving your money for a good part and/or a vasectomy.


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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Welcome back!

In 45 degree weather, there should be no reason the coolant temp got up that high. You've got an issue with that. For future reference, you shouldn't shut a hot motor down like that. The water pump stops circulating the fluid and it can create hotspots. Leave it running with the fan going unless it will run away on you. The better option is to start moving for the airflow. Not always easy in traffic, but you have to force it on the shoulder, nearby parking lot, right turn, etc. You've got an issue there that needs to be addressed.

Whoever told you to replace both the stator and rectifier is wrong. You don't need to do that unless both are actually bad. If you're on a budget with the kid coming, figure out which it is and get a quality part rather than 2 cheap ones. Since it will be too cold to ride it for a while, you can spend some time troubleshooting it more and saving your money for a good part and/or a vasectomy.


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Thanks. You know the overheating-at-idle issue started around the same time as this voltage issue. Just guessing here but perhaps the stator isn't able to properly charge the battery when riding so maybe the fan isn't getting enough voltage at idle and it isn't cooling down the bike properly. I have no temp issues at all when the bike is moving.

I did go ahead and order the Rick's stator, it's just not worth it to go cheap or unbranded on these bike parts.

And yes the wife is pushing hard to get the v surgery lmao, Army will even pay for it. but I'll always be shooting live rounds lmaooo
 

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You generally dont get overheating issues when moving on a bike anyway it always shows up when in slow moving traffic or at idle but it's not suppose to either way. I'm not sure if you can do what you can do with a car but you might be able to disconnect you coolant temperature switch and the fan switches on as a default after a few seconds,just so you know it's working and the plug your coolant temp sensor back in. Either way even in slow traffic or idling it shouldn't overheat the fan should stop that. Have a look in where the fan is and make sure you can spin it by hand that nothing is obstructing if you can manage to see in at it.
 

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Here is a video test of the voltage before start, cold start and warm idle. FWIW. Bike still cranks up on first try, haven't been able to take her out and ride though, but I will when I get back. Thinking about running a small digital voltage meter into the front of the bike and mounting it by the gauges but I digress
Everything looks fine here...
 

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The stator output has 3 pins. On top of the resistance measurement among the pins using the multimeter, please check the resistance of each pin relative to the grounds (negative polarity). One end of the multimeter to each of the 3 pins, and the other to the bare metal of the bike, or the battery negative (black) pole. Main failure mechanism of the stator is burning of the wire coating and plastic separator on the stator body, causing the stator wires to come in contact with the body. The reading should be zero, meaning no wire is touching the stator body and causing an electrical short to ground.

I have a Gen3, and a voltmeter installed. Since you have a tricky charging issue at hand, I believe adding this gadget will help monitoring what's going on wrong. Maybe you have a burnt socket pin at the rectifier outlet, and causing intermittent issues only while the bike is moving.

Also, I noticed you have the exhaust servo on. I wish I have that with my bike, but alas it's gone by the time I got my bike and in its place a servo eliminator. Adding this to the mention of 'flat power', I am wondering if the exhaust servo is acting up?

My bike's stator burned few weeks ago, and I have replaced it (temporarily) with a Chinese stator. It costs under $25. It works so far, been 1000km. I ordered from Kawi but this will take few weeks to arrive. Another option here is send the stator for re-wind. A good quality re-wind stator will cost around $100 here, and with some luck, should last another 2~3 years, so keeping one or two spares is not a bad idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
So I got my new Rick's stator and went to pull the stator cover off and the old stator had REALLY burnt up and I noticed the magnets had come off the flywheel. I guess between the last time I physically checked it and all the diagnostic/testing I've down while running the motor since last time I checked it ended up chewing up the stator.

So I cleaned out the flywheel and since there is an opening into the case I decided to drop the oil pan and inspect. Took front clip off, radiator, headers and dropped oil pan. There was 1-2 small pieces of stator wire in the oil pan, but the oil pickup screen had more crap in there.

So we inspected the transmission, rods, pistons, cylinders, crank etc with a LED flashlight. We rotated everything around several times. No signs of damage, debris or anything getting up into the motor. Ran a magnet through the inside of the case and it didn't pick up anything. It looks brand new up there. So the oil screen did it's job. So now on the search for a new flywheel. I have the new stator. Going to get a new oil pan gasket (although the one on there is only a month old and looks great) and header crush washers and re-assemble. I was going to clean/re-use oil screen but I'll just buy another fresh one. The plan is to put it back together and flush it with a couple of oil changes. I need to test the rectifier as well.
 

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You found debris in the oil pan? Never a god thing. The pickup screen should be able to be reused after a thorough cleaning. The oil filter is the next in line from there and should catch any of the bigger pieces if they make it through the screen. A new oil filter and oil change is needed to clear all of that debris.

Unfortunately, looking at the pistons, crank, and rods with a flashlight won't tell you anything. The oil is force-fed to the crank and rod bearings through a passage that isn't visible. Any debris that makes it through the filter will be forced into those areas and you can't see any of that unless you disassemble the rods and inspect the bearing surfaces. Not visibly seeing any damage doesn't mean anything. I wouldn't worry about that though as most of it was probably caught before it got to that point.

The only other thing you may want to look at closer it the oil pump. If anything got past the pickup screen, the oil pump rotor would likely crush it and embed it into the pump rotor. That can damage the pump and reduce it's output going to the other parts. So you should look at that to see if there's any signs it was affected by the pieces of the stator that came off. The oil goes from the sump, through the pickup screen, to the oil pump, then to the filter before going to the other parts of the motor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Thanks for the reply. Quick question - is the 08-10 ZX10R flywheel bespoke to that generation or will other gens of ZX10R flywheel work?
 
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