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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm in a bit of a pickle. I have a 1/2 mile roll racing event coming up in April and will be running my 2011 against a '14 s1k with full exhaust and tune. A summary of what's already done to my bike: guhl ecu flash, bmc race filter, Austin racing exhaust (slip on), 1/6 throttle mod, bazzaz qs4 usb, vortex rearsets and clip ons, -1 tooth on the front sprocket, all emissions removed, still have secondary throttle bodies in, GPR steering stabilizer, pcv with custom tune.
So if you had $1500 to put into the bike, what would you do? Head work?
Thinner headgasket? Ceramic wheel bearings? Lighter wheels? Any advice is appreciated :)
 

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put a multifunction hub on it to switch maps and good mr12 throttle position tune. pick up 10+ hard and $$$ to find hp in midrange and 8-9 up top. used hub about $75, custom tune ,hub, and 5 gal. of fresh mr12 about $500. yeilds good power increase everywhere tuned properly without cracking valve cover. we get these same results everytime. 10's really respond to mr12 done right. just for special ocassions as u mentioned, best for sure power adder option. huge difference riding our bikes on mr12 and pump gas andf were pump gas tuned also.
 

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put a multifunction hub on it to switch maps and good mr12 throttle position tune. pick up 10+ hard and $$$ to find hp in midrange and 8-9 up top. used hub about $75, custom tune ,hub, and 5 gal. of fresh mr12 about $500. yeilds good power increase everywhere tuned properly without cracking valve cover. we get these same results everytime. 10's really respond to mr12 done right. just for special ocassions as u mentioned, best for sure power adder option. huge difference riding our bikes on mr12 and pump gas andf were pump gas tuned also.
Good info, for sure. But goddamn is MR12 expensive.

By contrast you can set up a small, cheap dry shot for less than 500 bucks and make 30-40hp pretty easy. It's a hassle to refill bottles and hide it (if that's your intent), but it can be done. IMO there is no cheaper way to bolt on 30-40hp in a hurry. If he's just going to roll race there's not even really a need for a progressive controller or the other stuff that makes it expensive.... though better clutch springs are always a good idea.

Just out of curiosity, how does MR12 like spray?
 

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dont recommend spray on mr12, lower octane very fast burn fuel to maximize cyl. pressure. spray will work. dont know where u will hide even a 1lb bottle set at effective angle for proper nitrous flow to solenoid on a gen 4. 40 actually pretty big shot on a ten, will lose bottle pressure very quickly in just a few seconds with that size bottle making a/f very rich as nitrous flow decreases. ive run shots as low as 16 hp and picked up 6 mph in the 1/4, recommend maybe 16-20 shot max for that distance for engine safety and correct nitrous a/f fueling thru the run.. both suggested mods require seperate map and tuning. u can spray that shot very safely on pump gas. only gonna get 1 run in on small shot at max power for that distance. mr12 increase will stay consistient for a day or two in the tank, but does require draining the fuel, replacing with pump gas when not being used.
 

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spray the bitch. 20-30 shot will do nicely. change the plugs for 2 steps colder. No need for race fuel, just run a little bit of torco. Nitrous can be used safely, just don't be stupid with it.
 

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how much $ is at stake in this race? I assume its a lot of your willing to drop $1500 to win. I will also assume that if you are willing to drop that kind of $$ so is he. That said I would spray it and hire a jockey
 

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dont recommend spray on mr12, lower octane very fast burn fuel to maximize cyl. pressure. spray will work. dont know where u will hide even a 1lb bottle set at effective angle for proper nitrous flow to solenoid on a gen 4. 40 actually pretty big shot on a ten, will lose bottle pressure very quickly in just a few seconds with that size bottle making a/f very rich as nitrous flow decreases. ive run shots as low as 16 hp and picked up 6 mph in the 1/4, recommend maybe 16-20 shot max for that distance for engine safety and correct nitrous a/f fueling thru the run.. both suggested mods require seperate map and tuning. u can spray that shot very safely on pump gas. only gonna get 1 run in on small shot at max power for that distance. mr12 increase will stay consistient for a day or two in the tank, but does require draining the fuel, replacing with pump gas when not being used.
Rep, fo sho. :)
 

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...just to add .02 here...also if yer gonna spray, don't fog, do some kind of "direct injection" kit (spraybar). Its the only way IMO.
 

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I would buy $1 worth of sugar and put in the s1000's gas tank and pocket the other $1499. Oh wait, I think Mythbusters busted the sugar in the tank trick...
 

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...just to add .02 here...also if yer gonna spray, don't fog, do some kind of "direct injection" kit (spraybar). Its the only way IMO.
The spraybar kits are really nice, but a fogger works just fine on a small shot. Honestly, for spraying less than 30-40hp a spraybar is a little overkill. I would never fog the airbox with fuel, just dry nitrous and use a hub/ecu tunning to get the fuel there. I fogged a second gen box with a .032 jet in front of the air filter and made 38-40hp.... and I could fit two 1lb bottles under the fairing inserts without them being seen..... it was a fun set-up.
 

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I would buy $1 worth of sugar and put in the s1000's gas tank and pocket the other $1499. Oh wait, I think Mythbusters busted the sugar in the tank trick...

I don't care what the mythbusters came up with. What I do know is this, we had a rash of kids sugaring cars a few weeks back. Had 3 of them in our shop, you should see the friggin mess it makes. It wont dissolve in fuel like you would think, but man will it stop things up and ruin your pump, tank, filter, and maybe injectors.

But if you really want something more effective, just add bleach or some diesel fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, so it seems as though I'll probably go the nitrous route. I want to do it right for engine reliability. Is it okay to run a dry kit or should I drop a few more bucks and get the wet kit? Are wet kits easier to tune? It seems as though I'll probably pick up a boost controller aswell and a kit with a spray bar or other "direct injection". What are the best brands? I want quality. Thanks for the advice everyone! I'll post up videos after the race! It's in April ?
 

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For a small shot dry is the way to go, and you correct fuel through the ECU/Powercommander. If you're looking for some of the best stuff out there purpose built for bikes, send a PM to "Gixx1300R" on this forum.... he makes fantastic products and is a wealth of knowledge on the subject. He hangs out on Psychobike too if you want to look there.

EDIT: Webstore url: http://performancefirstcycles.com/
 

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I have never seen a S1000rr in front of a zx10r....

here in DR, my friend had one, with filter, leo slip on, -1, guhl reflash that did 186mph gps and no S1000rr (like 7 we raced) it was embarrassing to see the bmw's fail everytime.
 

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Ok, so it seems as though I'll probably go the nitrous route. I want to do it right for engine reliability. Is it okay to run a dry kit or should I drop a few more bucks and get the wet kit? Are wet kits easier to tune? It seems as though I'll probably pick up a boost controller aswell and a kit with a spray bar or other "direct injection". What are the best brands? I want quality. Thanks for the advice everyone! I'll post up videos after the race! It's in April ?
Zex and nitrous express.
 
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