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Discussion Starter #1
Some of you may have seen me mention one of my current issues with my bike. The bike has lost 300 to 500 rpm at idle. I haven't been able to adjust the idle speed because I forgot to put the idle adjuster in reach last time I took the throttle bodies off. The bike should be at 1100 rpm at idle. It's around 750 rpm give or take. Probably more to the take side. It's so bad I have to hold the throttle open to keep near normal idle. Even then the bike seems to idle rough, as in more engine vibration. I'll be taking the bike apart Tuesday for a new rear tire, oil change, and some cosmetic stuff. I plan to check the spark plugs. On my previous bikes the spark plug gap seemed to be the problem. I doubt it's the timing chain, but I may pull the head cover off to see if the timing marks are lined up. Anybody have any suggestion to where else my loss of idle speed could be from? I'll list all the engine specs, and mods below.



-04 ZX10R
-6978 Miles
-PC3USB Custom Mapped For A Ti Force Full System
-Air Injection System Disabled With Block Off Plates
-Thin Head Gasket (+ .5 to .75 of a point of compression added)
-Note Bike was dyno tested after thin head gasket. It was deemed not worth remapping. I agreed looking at new A/F ratio compared to the original custom map session ratio.
-Regeared -1/+1 F/R Sprockets I'm not a slow rider, but I don't hammer the snot out of my bike.
 

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First think I would look for is a disconnected vacuum line.

It probably ain't the spark plugs. They is iridium and even though Kawasaki recommends a change at 7,500 miles, even conventional plugs easily go 10,000. In any event, iridium plugs can't be gapped (at least according to NGK). It ain't cam timing because if it was out a tooth it probably wouldn't run at all and if it did it wouldn't idle at all. I supprised you can't fish out the idle adjuster.

It is a little difficult to get the plugs out. The engine side support thingies and the plate they attach to at the underside of the frame have to come out. If you plan on checking them might as well have some replacements on hand. The NGK CR9EK seems to work at least as well as the stock plug in my bike. Crappy idle is sometimes caused by throttle body sync problems. It is easy to syn the throttle bodies. Mine were out a little at 3,000 miles when I check and the idle smoothed up a bit when I adjusted it. When you have the airbox off it takes five minutes to pop the throttle bodies out and fish out the idle adjuster.

Something else to think about is that tight valves can cause erratic idle. I checked my valve clearance at 3,000 and two intakes were right at the tight side of spec, five shims one the way from Ron Ayers (at $8.50 apiece, thank you) to put all valves at the same clearance and in the middle of spec.
These ZX-10R ridin' folks don't seem to work on their own bikes much.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
swjohnsey said:
First think I would look for is a disconnected vacuum line.

It probably ain't the spark plugs. They is iridium and even though Kawasaki recommends a change at 7,500 miles, even conventional plugs easily go 10,000. In any event, iridium plugs can't be gapped (at least according to NGK). It ain't cam timing because if it was out a tooth it probably wouldn't run at all and if it did it wouldn't idle at all. I supprised you can't fish out the idle adjuster.

It is a little difficult to get the plugs out. The engine side support thingies and the plate they attach to at the underside of the frame have to come out. If you plan on checking them might as well have some replacements on hand. The NGK CR9EK seems to work at least as well as the stock plug in my bike. Crappy idle is sometimes caused by throttle body sync problems. It is easy to syn the throttle bodies. Mine were out a little at 3,000 miles when I check and the idle smoothed up a bit when I adjusted it. When you have the airbox off it takes five minutes to pop the throttle bodies out and fish out the idle adjuster.

Something else to think about is that tight valves can cause erratic idle. I checked my valve clearance at 3,000 and two intakes were right at the tight side of spec, five shims one the way from Ron Ayers (at $8.50 apiece, thank you) to put all valves at the same clearance and in the middle of spec.
These ZX-10R ridin' folks don't seem to work on their own bikes much.
If I go into the plugs, I'll be replacing them regardless. I know how much of a PITA they are. I did my own Muzzy thin head gasket. The first thing I'll do is see where that damn adjuster is, and see how it will idle. The fact it's so far of is what's bothering me. I'll see about syncing the throttle bodies. It seems to backfire a little more, but that may be more to do with the idle being off. It's a bitch to ride with the idle so low. I looked like a non riding fool a few times because of it.
 

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Did you check the TPS settings in the PC3? That might need a good checking for 0 throttle, it might not be giving the bike gas at 0 thorttle and choking it for gas.
 

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cant you just adjust the thottle on the left side of your bike.there is a round thing that you can adjust with your fingers and you dont have to take it apart.i dont know if you knew that it was there. :eek:ccasion1
 

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Discussion Starter #8
BNninja said:
Did you check the TPS settings in the PC3? That might need a good checking for 0 throttle, it might not be giving the bike gas at 0 thorttle and choking it for gas.
My dyno tuner actually set 0 throttle to +20 fuel to help on off throttle transition.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
eric said:
cant you just adjust the thottle on the left side of your bike.there is a round thing that you can adjust with your fingers and you dont have to take it apart.i dont know if you knew that it was there. :eek:ccasion1
Yes you can. Just as long as you put it back in place if you take off your throttle bodies. I mentioned I screwed that up last time I took the FI off the bike in my first post.

SP8(from 1st post) said:
I haven't been able to adjust the idle speed because I forgot to put the idle adjuster in reach last time I took the throttle bodies off.
 

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Man, I dunno. I've got some weird idle problems myself that I've been hunt'n down. Maybe we can compare notes. When cold it idles up as expected but then drops way below normal idle after about 30 seconds. After the bike is well warmed, it idles normally. I've been scratching head and balls trying to figure it out. My next step will be to start removing aftermarket parts. TRE and PCIII one at a time. :dontknow:
 

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I would definitely sync the throttle bodies. That's probably what's causing the rough idle and while you have it apart adjust your idle speed and make sure you put the adjuster back in the right spot when you put it together. Then all should be well and you can drink some beer and stare at you bike.
 

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Perhaps the adjuster is floating around in such a way that it's self-adjusting. Let us know how it goes once you fish it out!

//bikerscum
 

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Miykl, you need to adjust the idle. The newer FI bikes without a choke have a built in choke which is why is starts higher and then goes down. You need your 150 degree idle to be 1100-1300 rpms, forget the cold idle as it is being choked a bit.
 

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BNninja said:
Miykl, you need to adjust the idle. The newer FI bikes without a choke have a built in choke which is why is starts higher and then goes down. You need your 150 degree idle to be 1100-1300 rpms, forget the cold idle as it is being choked a bit.
It fast idles propery at cold start. It then idles way down (~700rpm) after about 30 seconds. Once warm it idles correctly (~1100rpm).
 

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miykl said:
It fast idles propery at cold start. It then idles way down (~700rpm) after about 30 seconds. Once warm it idles correctly (~1100rpm).
mine started that when i switched to a full system WITH a map...without a map it was still fine...never thought about it much...
 

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I think you should just take the side cover off and adjust the idle. Sometimes depending on where you got your gas from and the type, it will throw the idle off. I know when I burn mr9 or u4 i have to idle my bike up a little to be at spec. with pump gas i have to idle back down due to oxygen levels in the fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'll be stripping her down tomorrow morning. Thanks for all the insight. I'll let you all know what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well it seems to be running fine now with the idle adjusted. A person from another board said the loss of RPM could have been more to do with throttle cable stretch. I didn't bother checking the plugs. I'll be due for new ones by winter. I'll sync the throttle bodies, and check the valve clearances when the white stuff hits the ground. On a side note, I'm f'in pissed with the local stealership. I gave those shitheads my wheel to mount my tire. The mofos put my cush drives, and inner spacer in all f'ed up. I for the life of me could not put my wheel back on. I thought my swingarm got warped, or something from being on the stands for a long time. I decided to take the hub apart, and what do you know. The jerks put everything back together wrong. I have the same book as these idiots, and I'm not a certified mechanic. What's wrong with this picture. I will be buying tire changing equipment.
 

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SP8 said:
Well it seems to be running fine now with the idle adjusted. A person from another board said the loss of RPM could have been more to do with throttle cable stretch. I didn't bother checking the plugs. I'll be due for new ones by winter. I'll sync the throttle bodies, and check the valve clearances when the white stuff hits the ground. On a side note, I'm f'in pissed with the local stealership. I gave those shitheads my wheel to mount my tire. The mofos put my cush drives, and inner spacer in all f'ed up. I for the life of me could not put my wheel back on. I thought my swingarm got warped, or something from being on the stands for a long time. I decided to take the hub apart, and what do you know. The jerks put everything back together wrong. I have the same book as these idiots, and I'm not a certified mechanic. What's wrong with this picture. I will be buying tire changing equipment.

I know what you mean SP8, I actualy had a tire changed once and they lost one of the rubber dampers. After that I never brought the sprocket hub with dampers again. You don't need those on to do a tire balance.
 
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