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Discussion Starter #1
I am new to the ZX-10R and need some real info with proof to back up any claims. What is a good exhaust to install? Is it worth the extra money to install a full system? I currently have a Muzzy Carbon SO installed (on the bike when I bought it). Also is the really a difference between K&N & BMC to justify the extra money for the BMC? I have read about the Kawy race intake cam but is there any mods that need to be done to the engine for this cam to work properly (new or better springs or port work)? I want more speed without a dependabilty problem. Please no hate mail, I'm new and have to ask so money is not wasted on the wrong parts.
 

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:welcome: :welcome:
 

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Ok, I guess the question here is how much power are you looking to get? What are you doing that you need more power? Where do you want more power? Low end, mid-range, top end?

Will a full system make more power? Sure, how much more? Not a whole lot, maybe 2-4 hp more. It is usually the weight savings that a full system brings that helps. Now, I haven't looked at the 10's stock exhaust (as mine is still stock) compared to a full system yet...and really I don't need to. The bike has all the power I need, and then some. When you go to a full, you ditch the converter...so as long as you don't have any type of emissions testing in your area, you will be ok. What you didn't mention having on your bike is a way to control your fuel delivery. Noticeable gains can be had by properly tuning a fuel curve (and no, most people who run dynos can't get every bit of power out of a bike). Another item that would help greatly in your search for every higher hp numbers would be an ignition module or advancer. Kawasaki has always left power on the drawing table by keeping timing on the soft side. More than likely it is to keep emissions in check, but either way, bumping up timing will help power throughout the RPM range. As for your filter question, I don't believe in many aftermarket filters. Being a diesel truck guy, I have stumbled across enough proof that most oiled cotton filters have increased flow numbers, because they do not filter air as well (filtration is sacrificed for flow). I don't know about you, but I will keep a stock filter, even if it is costing me an extra 1-2 hp on the very top of the RPM range. Last but not least...cams. You state that you don't want to hurt reliability. Cams will not normally hurt reliability...but ride-ability usually suffers. Race cams will take away bottom end punch, and some mid range power to give you maximum hp at high revs. Great for a race track...but very bad for the street.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, I guess the question here is how much power are you looking to get? What are you doing that you need more power? Where do you want more power? Low end, mid-range, top end?

Will a full system make more power? Sure, how much more? Not a whole lot, maybe 2-4 hp more. It is usually the weight savings that a full system brings that helps. Now, I haven't looked at the 10's stock exhaust (as mine is still stock) compared to a full system yet...and really I don't need to. The bike has all the power I need, and then some. When you go to a full, you ditch the converter...so as long as you don't have any type of emissions testing in your area, you will be ok. What you didn't mention having on your bike is a way to control your fuel delivery. Noticeable gains can be had by properly tuning a fuel curve (and no, most people who run dynos can't get every bit of power out of a bike). Another item that would help greatly in your search for every higher hp numbers would be an ignition module or advancer. Kawasaki has always left power on the drawing table by keeping timing on the soft side. More than likely it is to keep emissions in check, but either way, bumping up timing will help power throughout the RPM range. As for your filter question, I don't believe in many aftermarket filters. Being a diesel truck guy, I have stumbled across enough proof that most oiled cotton filters have increased flow numbers, because they do not filter air as well (filtration is sacrificed for flow). I don't know about you, but I will keep a stock filter, even if it is costing me an extra 1-2 hp on the very top of the RPM range. Last but not least...cams. You state that you don't want to hurt reliability. Cams will not normally hurt reliability...but ride-ability usually suffers. Race cams will take away bottom end punch, and some mid range power to give you maximum hp at high revs. Great for a race track...but very bad for the street.
Monday night I ordered my Power Commander so as soon as it arrives I will install it with atleast a K&N filter (27.00 vrs BMC 65-75.00). I have enough bottom end because if I give it more than 1/2 throttle in gears 1 thru 3 the front tire goes airborne. The previous owner dropped 2 teeth on the front sprocket. I probably won't install cams and end up with a Arata full system w/ short can. I am looking for 160-170 rwhp.
 

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Unless you need a new air filter, I would stick with the stock. I think people fall into the marketing hype that is K&N. And now that everyone is brainwashed, other companies are selling something that is the same, only different. Actually, I have not heard a ton on the BMCs. Though what I have heard has been good. They actually offer a race and a street filter. My guess is one flows more, while the other stops more dirt.

Get your PC3 tuned by a good shop. I would suggest someone using a Factory Pro dyno...check out their site and you can read up on the differences. www.factorypro.com
 

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Stay with the stock filter.
+2 Unless your gonna get a D.N.A. filter. If you decide (which i didnt read) to throw in the Kawi race cam, get it degreed, custom mapped, and for fucks sake buy retiners and valve springs. Mine blew out, maybe im runnin my bike harder, not sure.
 

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My advice would be add one tooth back up front. a -2 up front is making your bikes first two gears for street riding (not stunting or racing) useless. Also making your 6th gear virtually like 5th gear. If you want a fast bike you are going to have bikes like new 600's roar up on you with that gearing during top end stints (if thats your mojo).

As for the slip on vs the full pipe. Yea, that slip on isn't going to give you much hp alone; if any. With a PC, maybe a couple (2-4). A full system with no pc and you may lose power, but with the PC you could get darn near 10 hp some claim more. But i think 8-10 is safe to say in most cases on a good tune.

I would stick with a Oem airfilter until your stocker wears out. Then get a KN just because you can reuse it. I think the whole power hype is just that "hype"

As for timing, if you bump it you will need to run higher octane fuel to stop pre-det.

Good pipe and PC and all the other little bolt on mods and close to 165 or so is in reach.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the help. I will remove the front cover and confirm that the front sprocket is -2 if so I will raise it back up +1 tooth. As for new 600's running with me on top end, I haven't found one that can keep up yet. I rode with a pack of 15 assorted bikes last night for Hooters bike night and nobody really wanted to play.
 

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Im not saying a 600 is going to outrun you; but your bikes top "speed" is going to be lowered approximately 12mph from its factory limit down to 170'ish. Some of the new 600 will run into the 160's; and 750's will surely do all of 170.

Regardless of that point.....what i was trying to get across is that unless you are a stunter or a racer at a track that has no straigh section you are a street rider. A -2 really turns your bike into a 5 speed, as first gear is useless and not needed. Try a second gear from a stop, im positive your bike will do it fine; even with no stress on the clutch.


Anyhow, try a -1f, even a -1f/+1r combo and im sure that alone will make your bike pull hard up top and "seem" like you have more power. Just as the throttle inserts make a bike "feel" like you have more hp.
 

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A "good" full system along with a properly tuned PC will give the GEN1 bikes mid 160s at the rear wheel. In the middle of summer mine made 164 with an Akra EVO 2 system and PC with Ivan's map. After having a shop install the thin head gasket, degree the stock cams to 107/104, and remap the PC it put out 173.

Don't get an aftermarket air filter for more power because it won't happen. As far as the timing thing goes, I'm not sure about that one. Ivan, who knows how to get good power from just about anything says bumping the timing with either the ignition module or modifying the pickup coil helps power but the shop that did my bike said adjusting the timing with the ignition module on my bike didn't do anything. :dontknow: And I agree with getting rid of the -2 cs sprocket. Unless you are a stunter that is unnecessarily low for a bike with the 10s power.
 
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