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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Little back ground. 2009 ZX10R motor not in a bike but a 4 wheel race truck. We race oval track with rolling starts. Motor is stock except for a custom dyno tune. Last race we broke the clutch cable so we replaced it and this race we broke the tip off what I would call the actuator rod when you pull the clutch the rod going into the motor presses against it. So with all that said since we need to go into the clutch I am thinking of upgrading the clutch so looking for recommendations.

So short version, need a race clutch for rolling start oval track. And what ever else I need to do such as basket upgrades or what ever.
 

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Little back ground. 2009 ZX10R motor not in a bike but a 4 wheel race truck. We race oval track with rolling starts. Motor is stock except for a custom dyno tune. Last race we broke the clutch cable so we replaced it and this race we broke the tip off what I would call the actuator rod when you pull the clutch the rod going into the motor presses against it. So with all that said since we need to go into the clutch I am thinking of upgrading the clutch so looking for recommendations.

So short version, need a race clutch for rolling start oval track. And what ever else I need to do such as basket upgrades or what ever.
Do you need the slipper clutch to work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you need the slipper clutch to work?
I don't know, I don't know much about bike engines. We us a clutch pedal just like in a car. Only dead stop start is just a normal style start. Race start is a rolling start usually first shift to second shift to third and run third. We change rearend gear to get RPM, we run low of 6000 and high of 12500-13000.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK figured out I don't need a slipper clutch. Looking at the Brock's Performance slipper eliminator and maybe the clutch cushion. Anyone have input on these? Again more of a road racing application.

Also should I add the 2005 Judder springs instead of the stock washer style?
 

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OK figured out I don't need a slipper clutch. Looking at the Brock's Performance slipper eliminator and maybe the clutch cushion. Anyone have input on these? Again more of a road racing application.

Also should I add the 2005 Judder springs instead of the stock washer style?
OK if you don't get wheel lock up when changing down, and i expect you don't then theres no need for a anti judder device. I would be thinking why did my cable brake then the rod?? If this has been in the car a long while and its the first clutch issue you've had then maybe stick with what you have. Make sure the cable is not at any unusual damaging angles and when the clutch lever-pedal is fully depressed its not over pulling the rod causing extra strain. Mods, well if its out and you have no issues why mess with it? Possibly fit a slightly higher spec pack (kevlar) plates and or stronger springs (G4 springs are an upgrade), if you want to needlessly weld the rivets to the basket you can but that has only ever been a problem on 10's with hard launching "HARD" launching. Keep this simple you'll be fine if you have been so far. :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK if you don't get wheel lock up when changing down, and i expect you don't then theres no need for a anti judder device. I would be thinking why did my cable brake then the rod?? If this has been in the car a long while and its the first clutch issue you've had then maybe stick with what you have. Make sure the cable is not at any unusual damaging angles and when the clutch lever-pedal is fully depressed its not over pulling the rod causing extra strain. Mods, well if its out and you have no issues why mess with it? Possibly fit a slightly higher spec pack (kevlar) plates and or stronger springs (G4 springs are an upgrade), if you want to needlessly weld the rivets to the basket you can but that has only ever been a problem on 10's with hard launching "HARD" launching. Keep this simple you'll be fine if you have been so far. :wink2:
This particular motor we have probably raced 2-3 years. We don't really down shift hard and with 2 rear wheels we don't worry about lock up. We start from a rolling start in first shift to 2nd then 3rd and run third. I am just looking for what ever advantage I can find in the clutch that the other guy might have like drag racers we are searching for less then .10 over the other guy. As for the cable it broke right at the lever mount again not sure how old the cable was, as for clutch it is in an 09 and probably stock. I am not completely sure that the engagement rod was installed correctly so might hove bound up and the other rod was the weakest point. Thanks for your input.
 

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Unless your having clutch slip, which you haven't mentioned then you cannot gain power from a clutch pack, for more reassurance fit strong springs that's about it, if you want a yesteryear change look at quickshifters and or pulling the transmission and backcutting & polishing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok got it apart and disk are all fine. There is some heating signs and scaring on the push rod and inside the transmission rod. Going to do the Brock's Performance slipper eliminator. Only other issue I have is weither to swap it out for the 2005 style Judder spring.
 

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Unless your having clutch slip, which you haven't mentioned then you cannot gain power from a clutch pack, for more reassurance fit strong springs that's about it, if you want a yesteryear change look at quickshifters and or pulling the transmission and backcutting & polishing.
sorry i meant fit "stronger" springs the G4 springs are an upgrade. Or if you want a faster gear change consider a quickshifter and or pulling the transmission to back cut and polish it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
sorry i meant fit "stronger" springs the G4 springs are an upgrade. Or if you want a faster gear change consider a quickshifter and or pulling the transmission to back cut and polish it.
I am trying to research not what kind of clamping force I need as to which springs to get.
 
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