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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Long story. Installed speedohealer, has since taken it out because that is the only thing I have changed on bike in 2 years and it rran perfectly before. Thought stator went out, dealer checked it and say's its fine. They are thinking magnet on flywheel? Anyone hasd this happen?? Bike will start fine, and run fine for about 10 or 15min then fi light flashes, instrument panel flashes, then bike dies, battery is drained, wont start. Charge it and it runs fine again for 15min or so then repeats. Battery is 6 months old and tests fine. Electical system is bone stock except for HID lights which have been problem free for 3 years. Worst part is I'm riding to the Gap leavign July 9th, so I'ver gotta bet on this ASAP. Any ideas would be wonderful. Dealer is clueless and wants to just start throwing parts at it, which my warranty wont cover unless it is the part in question, and I cant return electrical parts after they have been installed. 2007 zx10, 10,500 miles
 

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Licensed Dist of HaterAde
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I would guess it has to be the stator or the rectifier from what you're describing man....had the problem in the past but mine ended up being the stator but i changed it and the rectifier anyway since i had already opened both and wasn't sure which one was out at the time..best of luck and hope you get her running right before your gap run man!!!!
 

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Could be man, if it's not the stator then i would "almost" bet some cash that it would be the rectifier BUT that seems like something they would have identified at the dealer if they already checked the stator? kinda strange......
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I agree. I think the delaer is full of it, and either hasnt tested the stator or just want sth ecsh. When I told them it was a warranty bike then it became well we will see whats up. What a rip-off. When it was my money they wanted to throw parts at it. I've called Kawi consumer affairs and am having them contact the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No because the FI only comes on about 2min before bike dies, and by then battery is dead. When its fully charged the FI wont come on
 

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chogue;1483768...When I told them it was a warranty bike then it became well we will see whats up...[/QUOTE said:
If it's a factory warranty, then Kaw pays the dealer to do the repair work. Kaw may not pay as much as you would, so the dealer may be somewhat less enthusiastic to do warranty work, but they do get paid to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yeah, but Kawi will only cover the part it needs. Ive been thinking. I installed the speedohelaer then this started. So I un-installed the speedohealer. Im wondering if anywhere near that plug there is a wire that run to the charging system?? Maybe it came loose
 

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Do you have a digital multimeter? If not, get one.

Measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the battery charged but the engine off and the key off. A fully charged battery should be in the 12.5 - 12.8 volt range.

Start the engine and measure this voltage again with the engine running. If all is well, this voltage should be (in general) between 13.5 and 15.3 volts or a narrower range specified by your shop manual. Normally 14.something is good.

If it is equal or lower than the voltage measured above (12.5 - 12.8 or lower), your charging system ... isn't. Now you need to identify whether the problem involves the voltage regulator or the alternator or the wiring.

Find the voltage regulator and unplug it. Note that there are 3 same-coloured wires (I think yellow) and 1 different-coloured wire. With the key on, check whether you have battery voltage between the terminal on the wiring harness that has the different-coloured wire, and chassis ground (or battery negative post). If you have battery voltage at that terminal with the key switched on then the connection between the voltage regulator and the battery is good.

Make sure there is not a lot of corrosion around the mounting bolts for the voltage regulator. Most of them are grounded through the chassis. If there is no good ground, the regulator won't work correctly. If in question, use sandpaper to get the corrosion off, and use dielectric grease on the surfaces in contact when re-assembling (to reduce future corrosion).

With the regulator unplugged but the key switched OFF, measure for resistance between a secure ground and each of the three terminals on the plug leading to the voltage regulator. It should be infinity, otherwise you have a ground fault in the stator or wiring. Now measure resistance between pairs of the terminals on that connector. All pairs should show the same low resistance (a couple of ohms or less). If one pair is different from the others or the resistance is high, there is a problem with the stator or the wiring to it.

Now, with the regulator still unplugged and the multimeter set to measure AC voltage, measure AC voltage between the pairs of wires on the harness plug for the voltage regulator. All pairs should give a healthy AC voltage which varies with engine speed and all pairs should show about the same AC voltage at the same engine speed. It is not unusual for this voltage to be 50 or 100 volts and there is some healthy juice behind that and no fuse, so be careful not to zap yourself and be careful to not short-circuit any of the wires together or touch the multimeter probes together or to ground.

No connection between regulator plug and battery, or between regulator and ground -> fix that. Electricity can't get through an open circuit.

No AC voltage or improper AC voltage or differing between pairs -> problem with stator or wiring from stator.

Healthy AC voltage and good connections between battery and voltage regulator and between voltage regulator and ground, but battery is not charging -> voltage regulator is bad.
 

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Could be man, if it's not the stator then i would "almost" bet some cash that it would be the rectifier BUT that seems like something they would have identified at the dealer if they already checked the stator? kinda strange......
I'm with you on this one... sounds a lot like the rectifier to me. Personally I would start there. I had a bike do the exact same thing (not a ZX-10), and the rectifier was intermittantly going out. So when I tested it the first time, it tested fine. Finally I replaced it, and it has ran perfect every since.
 

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Rep to gofaster. Muchore thorough then what I typed up for you. He's right, all this is easy and now you can eliminate the dealer as one of the problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm out of town today, but Friday when i get back I'm going to the dealer to pick the bike up. The y wont have done or figured anything out yet and test it myself. I'm 99% is the stator, it made all the noise and symptoms of it being the stator. Sound like I wasted warranty money because I'll have to buy the part now to get it in time for the trip and install it myself sicne warranty will only cover the dealer during the parts and labor. I'm also sure it will be a battle picking up the bike because I'm also sure they are going to claim they have 4hrs labor tied up in it and what-not
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Dealer was a pain in the ass. The had it all apart when I went into pick it up. Replaced stator, rectifier and regulator. Bike runs but somewhere now I have a short I cant find. Bike runs and charges jsut fine, but if it gets wet, washing it or rain, it wont start or stay running once it starts. As soon as it dries out though its fine
 

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I ended up taking my bike apart, draining the oil, and removed the stator cover... burned up a little. Grrr.... Now I'll need to replace those parts. I'm going to say that you have some exposed wiring somewhere. I would recommend taking the fairings and the gas tank off this winter and finding the problem. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have tried finding it. I checked cleaned and greased every plug. Ive traced every wire looking for a crack or split. tried drenching section by section with a hose to find and have no luck. Its about to drive me nuts
 
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