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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Update on page 4.
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After track day i noticed my talon rear sprocket has some nasty wear on it.
1 side only!!!
The outside edge has one tooth smoothed and one tooth gouged off all the way round.
Rear wheel appears to be lined up perfectly.
Chain and sprockets are as new. Maybe 100 miles old. All 525 pitch.
 

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If it was out of alignment I would expect all the teeth to look like that. If it's only 1 or 2 teeth I would think either manufacturing defect or something got between your chain and sprocket for 1 revolution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Im so unsure whats caused this.
Its all the way round. 1 tooth gouged and 1 tooth smoothed all round.
Only on the outside.
I thought i must have lost the center spacer but checked tonight but it was there so now im stumped.

This is the alloy one left and standard sprocket right hand side.

These are all the wheel spacers from the wheel.
The wheel was almost perfectly aligned to within 1 or 2mm so hardly the cause.
The chain links are all ok and all move so no tight links.
 

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I do not have the between the plate measurement on the chains, but a

530 sprocket is basically 8.7mm thick and the distance between the plate would just be a hair over that

525 = 7.2mm

520 = 5.8mm

There are some tolerances between brands, but that will be pretty damn close and certainly good enough for you to measure and know what you are dealing with.
 

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If all as reported then out of alignment. Have to make certain that the alignment lines are lined up WHILE you can look through the AXLE. Looking thru the axle tells you to get your line of sight straight so that you don't dork the alignment. A baseline as we say in the science club. Do this on BOTH SIDES and THEN check after you tighten the axle nut as our Kawa corp likes the cotter key holes lined up. I noticed a long time ago that when I tighten past the torque specs to line up those stupid holes the RIGHT side goes OUT FARTHER than the left. And that is what you did assuming all variables that you mentioned are correct.

Interestingly, the only reason why I know any of the above is because of the Met rr rear tire grips far better than any other tire used. rr does not spin, or spins far less. But the cheap sprockets hate that met rr. I'll report all of this later when I put enough time on the vortex hardened sprocs. Up until the last few weeks I've ran nothing but spinning rear tires on the rear for years. Sprockets were happy, I guess.

I don't use the cotter pin, btw. and that nut has yet to move.
 

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If all as reported then out of alignment. Have to make certain that the alignment lines are lined up WHILE you can look through the AXLE. Looking thru the axle tells you to get your line of sight straight so that you don't dork the alignment. A baseline as we say in the science club. Do this on BOTH SIDES and THEN check after you tighten the axle nut as our Kawa corp likes the cotter key holes lined up. I noticed a long time ago that when I tighten past the torque specs to line up those stupid holes the RIGHT side goes OUT FARTHER than the left. And that is what you did assuming all variables that you mentioned are correct.

Interestingly, the only reason why I know any of the above is because of the Met rr rear tire grips far better than any other tire used. rr does not spin, or spins far less. But the cheap sprockets hate that met rr. I'll report all of this later when I put enough time on the vortex hardened sprocs. Up until the last few weeks I've ran nothing but spinning rear tires on the rear for years. Sprockets were happy, I guess.

I don't use the cotter pin, btw. and that nut has yet to move.
I use a lock washer in lieu of the cotter pin for my woodcraft axle sliders. They will not go on without the cotter pin out. Their kit comes with the washer. But yes the nut does not move. I have checked the torque spec many times.
 

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When installing the rear wheel on the zx10, it's important to make sure that the long spacer inside the wheel's hub is properly aligned. It tends to tilt a little, which makes wheel installation challenging because the axle doesn't slide in easily, as it should. Now this might not affect the sprocket wear but when you had to hammer in the axle, your final alignment might be exactly where it should be and that will chew up your soft aluminium sprocket in a hurry. So before installing the rear wheel, put your fingers inside the wheel hub and feel for how the (tube-like) spacer is sitting in there. It's easy to align and it makes the axle slide in effortlessly. Another reason for such a wear could be chain slack but I would imagine you've checked for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
This is a little video of my sprocket carrier.
According to colchester kawasaki this is ok but im not so sure.
The casting is way out and im not sure it should have sideways play in it?
This could explain the damaged sprocket?
https://youtu.be/4wO6DWPQT0Y
 
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