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Hi all, I have a Gen 4 zx10r abs Anniversary edition, last few weeks both keys are beginning to bend in barrel, not sure why. I have been using wd40 in it after every wash and in between, and last time I used graphite lube ( looks like pencil lead finely ground up).

I found that Timpsons seemly can't cut a key for me...


Anyone able to offer a fix of some sort without the option of buying a new ecu barrel keys etc that's a £700 plus fix


Thanks

Sheas
 

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WD40 doesn't last. It's engineered as a water dispersant and not meant to be used as lube. I've put 6 winters and many kilometres on my bike (in very bad weather including pouring rain and salted roads) and keep my lock working great by using whatever oil I have kicking around the garage. I've used 10-30 motor oil and dextron.

I just put a drop of oil into the lock and work the key in and out repeatedly. The key gets oily and dirty, then I wipe it off and repeat the process a few times until the key comes out relatively dry and clean. The oil lubricates, picks up contaminants and then deposit itself onto the key where I wipe it away. I only use a drop or 2 of oil. I obviously keep doing this until the key is clean and dry because I don't want an oily key to stain my pockets.

Don't forget to do this with your fuel tank lock as well.
 

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Well, the WD40 has probably caused more issues now that you've used it. Porschenut is spot on. WD40 is a water dispersant (hence the W D part of the name). It's basically kerosene with a small drop of oil in it. It works wonders as a cleaning solution, but that's about it. The kerosene evaporates quickly. It acts as a lube by cleaning all the crap off of the surface, not by actually putting any lubricant on it. It wears off quickly and leaves a sticky surface to attract debris. Now that you've sprayed that in the barrel, it will now collect that stuff. Awesome.

No, you should be using a dry graphite lube. DRY is the key feature of that! No fluids! The fact that the WD is in there will likely turn that into a paste. You would have to thoroughly clean the inside and dry it out before using the graphite powder. Not easy to do.

The key is hanging up on the barrel from it being worn down and it takes more force to turn it. The barrel is probably worn as well and will only get worse over time. You should be jiggling the key a little as you turn it and definitely don't force it to turn. The keys are weakened now and every time they bend and you straighten them, they get closer to failing completely. The last thing you what to do if break one off in the barrel. Then you'll be screwed! Not only from being trapped at that location, but you'll be forced to get a new ignition switch and key set, along with the fuel tank cap, and tail lock if you want the keys to match! The fact that you have a chipped key with the immobilizer causes even more problems. You need the master key to even re-code a new set to the ECU or you'll be buying that as well. Cha-ching!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
WD40 doesn't last. It's engineered as a water dispersant and not meant to be used as lube. I've put 6 winters and many kilometres on my bike (in very bad weather including pouring rain and salted roads) and keep my lock working great by using whatever oil I have kicking around the garage. I've used 10-30 motor oil and dextron.

I just put a drop of oil into the lock and work the key in and out repeatedly. The key gets oily and dirty, then I wipe it off and repeat the process a few times until the key comes out relatively dry and clean. The oil lubricates, picks up contaminants and then deposit itself onto the key where I wipe it away. I only use a drop or 2 of oil. I obviously keep doing this until the key is clean and dry because I don't want an oily key to stain my pockets.

Don't forget to do this with your fuel tank lock as well.
Brilliant thanks a million pal
 

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WD40 doesn't last. It's engineered as a water dispersant and not meant to be used as lube. I've put 6 winters and many kilometres on my bike (in very bad weather including pouring rain and salted roads) and keep my lock working great by using whatever oil I have kicking around the garage. I've used 10-30 motor oil and dextron.

I just put a drop of oil into the lock and work the key in and out repeatedly. The key gets oily and dirty, then I wipe it off and repeat the process a few times until the key comes out relatively dry and clean. The oil lubricates, picks up contaminants and then deposit itself onto the key where I wipe it away. I only use a drop or 2 of oil. I obviously keep doing this until the key is clean and dry because I don't want an oily key to stain my pockets.

Don't forget to do this with your fuel tank lock as well.
Brilliant thanks for that, while I got you here, what viscosity oil is used in the forks, I can't see what one in the manual, thanks
 

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Sorry can't help you out on the fork viscosity. I had a local shop build my fork last year and recall they used Ohlins brand oil but the invoice is at home and I'm at work so I can't check.

Skydork will know for sure.
 
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