Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 20 of 89 Posts

·
Speed Freak
Joined
·
12,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone, well I thought I would share my head porting/head swap….. Anyways for some of you that have not seen my posts about this type of head porting it is a “high velocity” head. You close the intake runners down with epoxy and raise the floor of the port. What you are doing is creating more velocity for the air and fuel to travel threw and charge the cylinder more efficiently.

Lets start off with the head. First off I’m running a 2006-2007 head which has a 1mm smaller intake valve which aids in the velocity as well. I cleaned the head in and out and started to get to work.




I cleaned up the exhaust side by removing most of the castings and smoothened things out.



On the intake side I started by roughing up the entire intake track. This will help the epoxy have more “footing” and grip the port better.




I then applied “Marine-tex” to the ports, this is a very heavy duty 2 part epoxy that has been used countless times with epoxy porting.



I let this sit over night with a halogen lamp facing towards it which helped it cure over night… It for sure was some hard stuff!

Roughly about 6 hours later I had finished working all of the ports. I wound up going back and re-shaping 2 of the ports because there was a slight dip mid way down the runners that I must have created but I’m very happy with the way it turned out. Patience is very key to working with this. You can take off to much at a single time and getting the port shape was really not all that bad. Using telescopic gauges and checking the choke points I was able to shrink the port down to 65% of the intake valve diameter.






OFF TO THE MACHINE SHOP!!! The local machine shop charges $45 bucks to re-surface the head. I had them take .015” off the head. That and along with the Kawi thin gasket which is .008” I have lowered the head .023” total which should put me in the 14.2:1 compression range.


Now it’s time for assembly. I wanted to beef up the valve train a little so I got a set of Carpenter’s valve springs and titanium retainers. This kit runs I believe around 350 dollars and you can get it from them direct or threw schnitz.






OK now that the head was done I had to wait a lil bit to get to work… I finally got the chance to swap everything over one night, started at about 6pm and ended at about 3am with everything all together just needed oil, filter and coolant so that had to be picked up the next day (woke up at 9am = me not happy) OK so started with the basicis of removal of fairings and body work which seriously took me 8 min’s to go from fully together to having the upper, lower, tail and tank all off the bike… so easy



Now removal of airbox, throttle bodies, any other small things in the way and the motor mounts… now on the mounts part… the side mounts must come off but the upper ones just to maybe make it a lil easier. Remove the back two bolts which have 12mm heads and the front mount you can just loosen and rotate it towards the front that bolt has a 14mm head on it. Also you can see in the pics, I notched my brackets and now whenever you have to change plugs you can actually get the coils out without having to remove any fairings just have to pop the tank and the air box off and you can change plugs!!! Its that easy! You just have to cut a bit away at them and if you don’t mind it and don’t think its going to take away from anything to much go for it! Speaking of plugs I’m running CR9EK’s which are dual electrode plugs… supposed to be a tiny tiny better for compression. I’ll be getting a set of BRISK plugs when I can.




Drain the oil and coolant and remove radiator and exhaust.


The bracket I was talking about modifying



Time to crack the valve cover!!! Pretty basic your just going to remove the valve cover. Put the motor at TDCC, remove the tensioner and remove cams….





Time to remove the head!!!!! OK heres my tips… first off you can remove the crank pick up unit meaning rotor and the pick up. Also remove the obvious front cam chain guide bolts and remove completely the rear chain guide by removing the pin. Now you can snake the cam chain completely off of the bike by pulling the lower cam gear away from the motor and slide the chain off…. This will make things easier to pull the head off. WHEN PULLING THE HEAD OFF… after you break it free the only thing left in the head should be the front cam chain guide… as your pulling the head off tilt it forward and the front guide will follow with you. I have done head swaps before by leaving that front guide in and rotating the head but this seemed 10X easier to me.

Using a mallet you got to really persuade the head to come off sometimes. That gasket just likes to stick a lot!




Install is reversed of disassembly… obviously you have a service manual so I don’t have to tell you guys what you really have to do. The service manual probably tells you how to do this better than I lol.


Time to degree the cams….


I was going to do a write up on how to degree the cams but it was getting a bit late and I just wanted to finish her up. At about 11pm my dial indicator bracket broke while I was tightening it up causing the dial indicator to fall and bend the shaft…. SO…. I spent an hour fixing this damn thing, feel bad for anyone who works on watches for how small parts are inside these things!!! Anyways with it all fixed I finished degreeing my cams, setting the manual cam tensioner and getting everything perfect.


A while after finishing that up, I Was going to leave everything off like the air box and all just in case something wasn’t right when I started up but took the chance and tightened everything up, TB’s air box, tank, exhaust, radiator and so on… I had to grab a new oil filter, oil and coolant in the AM as well as drop off a ATV at the stealership.


So woke up at 9am (got to bed at 3:30am) picked up the filter at the dealer and headed to walmart to pick up synthetic Rotella and cooant. I had to head to work so couldn’t fire her up but snuck back to the house during lunch, filled her with oil and coolant and popped her off. She fired off on the first crank perfectly!!! As many motors I have been inside of I still always feel my stomach drop as it fires away and I’m always covering the kill switch just incase hahaha… Ran it threw one heat cycle and let the temps get up to almost 200 and cut her off… She running great!
 

·
Speed Freak
Joined
·
12,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So as for the test ride I had to wait another day because I was still waiting on my chain to come in. My stock rear caliper wound up seizing on me one night destroying the chain and rotor. I bought a DID ERV3 120 gold linked chain off ebay for $129 bucks shipped to my door. As for the rear brake set up, I’ve been drooling over a underslung brake set up, I even tried to modify a stock bracket to work but not to much luck… I also wanted to upgrade the master cylinder. I had a zx14 caliper laying around and I thought to myself this sucker is massive compared to the tiny little zx10r caliper must need a bit more fluid flowing threw the lines to pump this massive caliper. So for a little under $20 dollars on ebay and asking a local buddy of mine to take some measurements I found a ZX-14 rear master cylinder to mount up to the bike. A perfect fit!!! I’d really like to see someone use this master cyl on a stock application and see if any difference…. Anyways I bought a used ducati 999 Brembo rear caliper for $50 shipped and I bought a new bracket ($100 shipped) that is supposed to only work for ZX-10r’s that have aftermarket wheels like my Marchesini’s I also really wanted to completely clean up the rear end so for a temporary solution to my orange HEL brake lines a wrap with electrical tape turned them black lol.

Pic of the chain


OK well I received the under-slung caliper bracket today and the first thing I notice is the bolts they supply looks like the head will break right off, luckily I had 2 Titanium bolts laying around that will work perfect. Also the powder coating they use on this bracket is good but they coated the inside hole where the axle goes…. That needs to be cleaned up and made sure the axle will slide right threw…. And another thing I noticed is that the spacing for the caliper mounting points are actually in a lil bit to much but can be easily cured with a washer between the caliper and the bracket. Without the washers the outside pad does not have enough room to let the caliper move around and will slightly drag against the rotor.

Here are the brackets side by side


Here is the inside bore cleaned up and trial fitted with axle


Heres the brake set up complete


I just need to get a new SS brake line for it, I had a brake line laying around that fitted up to her and will work for now but I need to get a line only a few inched longer.

Another Ebay find I decided to try out was mirror block off plates, they were $14.50 shipped and made in Hungry I think. I was just using a set of screws to hold it on but they were slowly getting deeper into the fiberglass so I wanted something a lil better to hold the upper on. Simple, inexpensive and look good.



So now that she’s all done, I just have to bring her to the dyno! I base lined at 144.73hp and 73.79 ft. lbs. Torque. Now you can see in this chart the bike goes rich up top. This is because I tune my bike on the street and I’ve seen a .4-.5 difference on the dyno and on the street so I was not worried about it being rich like this. I’m going to street tune the bike and then bring it to the dyno when shes dialed in.


And here is the finished product along with the list of mods done to it. ENJOY!!!







Body and Chassis

• Zero Gravity Double Bubble Windscreen
• Vortex gas cap and base
• Pazzo shorty black levers
• Rear tail light with integrated turn signals
• Removed under tail, misc plastic pieces, unnecessary brackets
• Lightened stock rearsets
• Mirror Block off’s when not using mirrors
• Single Beam Headlight with slim HID kit
• Rear solo cowl with light weight cushion
• 06' ZX10r Race fiberglass upper
• Carbon fiber belly pan
• Carbon fiber mirror covers
• Carbon fiber front fender
• Carbon fiber tank sides
• Carbon fiber heel guards
• Carbon fiber rear fender
• Carbon fiber chain guard
• Vortex Lowering Links 0, 1.5, 2.5"
• Fully Adjustable aluminum kickstand
• PMR Stealth Kill switch
• Removed seat cushion for race seat, also have a stocker
• Vortex clipon bases with carbon fiber bars and titanium hardware
• Kawasaki KIT 60* Throttle
• GPR Steering stabilizer
• Ohlins 06-07 R&T forks
• Ohlins 46 prxls shock
• Titanium Rear-set bolts
• Titanium Upper triple tree bolts

Engine

• Yoshimura Stainless steel headers with Carbon fiber TRC can
• BMC race Air filter
• All short stock velocity stacks
• Removed secondary throttle plates and shafts
• 06-07 12 hole 330cc fuel injectors
• Valve cover block off’s and re-routed crank case breather
• 06' ZX10 Radiator – removed radiator fan assembly in winter
• Woodcraft Engine covers L & R
• Barnett 100 lbs clutch springs (3 of them)
• Carpenter springs and titanium retainers
• My own personal high velocity head porting decked .015" and thin head gasket


Electronics

• Dynojet Power Commander USBIII
• Dynojet Quick Shifter
• Daytona Sensors WEGO3 heads up display AFR and datalogger
• Speedohealer V4
• Hacked ECU with 13,500rpm rev limiter by "Guhl Motors"

Wheels and brakes

• MARCHESINI 10 spoke MAGNESIUM wheels
• Pilot power 180/55 and 120/70 tires
• Braking full floating front rotors
• Braking rear wave rotor
• Titanium Brake Rotor bolts front and rear
• Titanium Caliper bolts for rear
• ERV3 520 chain with different gearing 16,17,18,36, 37, 38,40, 41 sprockets (currently 16,40)
• ZX-14r silver front NISSIN calipers
• ZX-14r Master Cylinder Front & Rear
• Brembo rear caliper (off Ducati 999)
• Underslung rear caliper bracket
• EBC HH pads F&R
• HEL SS Brake Lines
• Rear brake fluid reservoir removed and installed short tube

Gotta say thanks to Mary at www.superbikesupply.com and Don from http://www.guhlmotors.com/ for flashing the ECU to 13,500 rpms. A VERY BIG thank you to motorman for his head write up. To learn more about epoxy’ed heads go here http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm Thanks to all the supporters as well!


P.S. If anyone is interested in a ported head by me, I have 3 heads on a bench right now that I have available for porting so PM me if interested I’ll for sure beat anyone’s price!!!
 

·
can we ride yet!?!?!?
Joined
·
3,522 Posts
hell man there's quite a bit of work in just the documentation alone.
thanks for posting:thumbsup:
 

·
Speed Freak
Joined
·
12,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
once or twice a month ;-)

hahah not so much anymore really but I used to be inside a 10r almost more frequently than my g/f hahahaha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,688 Posts
Nice write up! Well done.

Would have loved to seen another "how to" on degreeing cams. I've been throwing around the idea of doing my own this winter.

Can't wait to see the #'s.

A little off topic. Did you use the Marine-tex Epoxy to fill the holes from the secondary flies shaft, or something else? I would have already pulled mine out, but I'm a little weary about what to use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts
I think you are a little lean in most of the rev range and pretty OK up top. Just IMO. I seem to make more power on a street bike richer (usually much richer) than 13.5:1. But you know your bike better than I.

Is that a wideband reading from the collector?

Nice work and thanks for sharing! :thumbsup:
 

·
Speed Freak
Joined
·
12,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Nice write up! Well done.

Would have loved to seen another "how to" on degreeing cams. I've been throwing around the idea of doing my own this winter.

Can't wait to see the #'s.

A little off topic. Did you use the Marine-tex Epoxy to fill the holes from the secondary flies shaft, or something else? I would have already pulled mine out, but I'm a little weary about what to use.

I'm actually thinking of changing my cam numbers so maybe I will do one sometime soon, really does not take long to do just a re-degree. I really gotta get something better to do a positive stop method on finding TDC.

As for the secondary's I actually used JB weld probably about 2 years ago with no problems at all... :thumbsup:

I'd stick with JB its much easier to use... What I did was seperate the TB's into the 2 pieces and removed everything laid the TB's upright and put a piece of tape on the lower portion of the TB and poured the JB in there, was a lil time consuming but worth it to me!

Thanks again guys!
 

·
Speed Freak
Joined
·
12,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I think you are a little lean in most of the rev range and pretty OK up top. Just IMO. I seem to make more power on a street bike richer (usually much richer) than 13.5:1. But you know your bike better than I.

Is that a wideband reading from the collector?

Nice work and thanks for sharing! :thumbsup:
The dyno shows my bike to run down to around 12.4-12.5 I think on the dyno at top end... I tune the bike for about 12.9-13.1 on top end. I like to keep the low end sorta crisp and slightly leaner and then taper it to a richer mixture for the top end WTFO runs :thumbsup:

the dyno chart is with a standard o2 sniffer running down near where my 02 is... my 02 is on the header before the midpipe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
Looking forward to seeing the dyno results. What kind of increase do you expect? I read about this on a site mototuneusa dot com. Is that where you got the idea? I bought an extra zx6 motor to try it on and see how it improved things for my race bike. My zx10 probably has enough already at 184.
 

·
Speed Freak
Joined
·
12,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Looking forward to seeing the dyno results. What kind of increase do you expect? I read about this on a site mototuneusa dot com. Is that where you got the idea? I bought an extra zx6 motor to try it on and see how it improved things for my race bike. My zx10 probably has enough already at 184.
this head work picked up 12hp with a kit cam so I really dont know...

what do you have done to make 184 or is that a generous dyno???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
this head work picked up 12hp with a kit cam so I really dont know...

what do you have done to make 184 or is that a generous dyno???
superstock build so thinner head gasket, velocity stacks, kit cams, kit ecu(bazzaz now though) etc and race gas on a dynojet... It's an ama bike I just picked up. I race wera in the southeast. They are getting 125-130hp out of the 600's at the track. Some reliably, some not so much... My zx6r puts down 114 on pump gas right now so I was looking at the head work as a way to increase that with reliability. don't have time or money to rebuild after every race weekend.
 

·
Speed Freak
Joined
·
12,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
not to bad, usually most on here claim into the 180's with the standard off the shelf stuff, pipe filter pc3....

From what I have personally seen the epoxy heads pick up on pretty much almost anything you put one on as long as the mathematics are correct... try it out and let us know!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
not to bad, usually most on here claim into the 180's with the standard off the shelf stuff, pipe filter pc3....

From what I have personally seen the epoxy heads pick up on pretty much almost anything you put one on as long as the mathematics are correct... try it out and let us know!
Edumacate me...what are the mathematics and details on the head work??? I've just read through that website, I know none of the specifics

On the zx10, I'm changing out the exhaust from micron to leo vince and the bazzaz is new cause the kit ecu burned out so gotta get her tuned again. I'll do a pump gas and race gas tune and let you know what the dyno shows. The bump in compression from the thinner gasket is the key to the hp gains on race bikes and to still be legal in all classes. Gotta watch out for the long straights though...that's where you'll burn it up unless you have the right race gas in there. Cams have to be redegreed and such of course and the stacks add a bit since you stay at higher rpm's then on the street...

I've seen a .5 to 1hp gain from using the race oil filters also! Less restriction on flow allows the engine to spin easier robbing less hp's...
 

·
Speed Freak
Joined
·
12,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
well the key number to making a intake port smaller is 65% of the intake valve diameter should be the choke point, the hard part is just to make sure the port tapers smoothly to that choke point which is more of a skilled hand rather than mathematics but when I ported my head I did several measurements inside the port to keep everything even since everything is done by hand.

If you read the link I have in the end of my first 2 posts I have a link to mototunes site where he explains all you need to know though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,355 Posts
well when can i send you some money to get my those valve springs and retainers??
and of course i will send you some extra for helping me out and going out of your way
 

·
Speed Freak
Joined
·
12,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
the carp stuff you anr wanting I take it???

PM me if ya need me to send something to ya, I help out a few guys across the pond to get some parts.
 
1 - 20 of 89 Posts
Top