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Just thought i'd post this. Had my 10 dynoed on Saturday morning. Bike is all stock, 2,000 miles. Broken in using the Moto Man method. This was done on a Dynojet 250. 85 degrees ambient temp, very high humidity.

Just for some reference, the lowest stock 10 dynoed at 150 on this same dyno, and the highest was 160.0. I was pretty happy with my number.
 

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That's really good man. Now start modding it. I think you got an awesome one ot start with!!!!!
 

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Yep all the new bikes are varying quite a bit as to what they are making stock. Funnily enough with the mods done, like exhausts and mapping, they all end up pretty close to the same numbers, but the "less hp" stock bikes make more h.p (bigger gain) from the same mods, if you get my drift.
 

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Birdman said:
Yep all the new bikes are varying quite a bit as to what they are making stock. Funnily enough with the mods done, like exhausts and mapping, they all end up pretty close to the same numbers, but the "less hp" stock bikes make more h.p (bigger gain) from the same mods, if you get my drift.
You know, I've noticed the same trend you mentioned. My zx12r dynoed at a very high 164 bone stock. With a full Akro race system, it only gained 6 HP (peak to peak) and made 170HP. Most of the ZX12s that dynoed in the lower range (155-158) were putting out 174 after an Akro. Strange :dontknow:

By the way, you almost have me convinced to make the Arata full system my next mod. :mrgreen:
 

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Eric..........You can't go wrong with the Arata pipe!!!! The quality and design built into every pipe is second to none. The one I have on my 12R is perfect in every way. When I had two 12Rs a couple of weeks back the second bike had an Akra on it and there's NO comparing the two on that application. The quality wasn't there and the power wasn't as good either. How a motor runs down the road is what we're all after and how a bike pulls thru the RPM range on the road is totally different than how it spins a Dyno wheel. Again I've owned both pipes and I DIDN'T like the Akra pipe. The 10R pipe from Akra may be better but I doubt it. It's a close second place, but it's not the winner. :wink:
 

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Arata full system is a good system. A buddy of mine put that on his k5 1000 and it sound so sweet man. He got the carbon and it is one of the baddest looking exhausts made.
 

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I did the Motoman break-in on mine. Haven't had it on the dyno but it seems to be a very strong running ZX-10R. Can you belive, this damned thing is 20 pounds lighter than my old ZX-6R and has more horsepower by 7,000 rpm. I love it.
 

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Work on getting the power to the ground before looking at getting more power.

suspension work first, then play with it more.
 

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FuTAnT said:
Work on getting the power to the ground before looking at getting more power.

suspension work first, then play with it more.

I think it will put a lot more to the ground that what most of us have without touching the suspension. Just my opinion. Dad has a ZX12 that put down 194hp with no suspension work and he never has any problems getting the power down. However, sometimes the power tends to wanna make it take flight, so he lowered it. Haha.

For my own knowledge, what suspension work would you suggest for the mighty 10? I run the mountains and that's about it and I have no complaints with it, but is there truly something worth while that I am missing by running stock set up? Keep in mind, I am not a racer. I like to run the curves, but not at racetrack speeds.
 

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that mototune method is alittle flawed. while its true to help break in the rings u need some cyl pressure to force the rings against the cyl walls. U dont however need rpms to do so. infact as rpms rise VE falls so dynamic compression decreases also.

just put load on the engine as low rpms and vary your rpm and you'll be golden.

oh and on a side note. break in is not nearly as important as it once was. rings and machining are so accurate now days that rings and cyl are more round than ever and wearing the rings to match the cyl isnt nearly as important as it once was. hell u dont even have to hone a cyl to give it that rough surface to wear the rings against anymore and still have almost no cyl leakage.
 

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axo250 said:
I think it will put a lot more to the ground that what most of us have without touching the suspension. Just my opinion. Dad has a ZX12 that put down 194hp with no suspension work and he never has any problems getting the power down. However, sometimes the power tends to wanna make it take flight, so he lowered it. Haha.

For my own knowledge, what suspension work would you suggest for the mighty 10? I run the mountains and that's about it and I have no complaints with it, but is there truly something worth while that I am missing by running stock set up? Keep in mind, I am not a racer. I like to run the curves, but not at racetrack speeds.
I think "racetrack" speeds are more what FuTAnT is talking about. At street pace, the stock suspension is ok. But when you pick up the pace, you realize that even stock hp is more than the suspension can handle.
 

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phastone said:
I think "racetrack" speeds are more what FuTAnT is talking about. At street pace, the stock suspension is ok. But when you pick up the pace, you realize that even stock hp is more than the suspension can handle.
Well, in reply to both your replies (geez, that a mouthfull).

Perhaps I come from a biased opinion. In Australia it's quite a mandatory requirement because of the roads we have here. Some are fantastically smooth (but not many) however most of them have their fair share of bumps and irregularities.

I've never been on a track, and I had my 954RR modded (man, what a change!) and the ZX10R as well (only took me about 9 days before I had it done, after putting around 2,000kays on the clock).

I had new valves put in the front forks, spring rates were left as standard. (I weigh 80kg). This aided greatly in a really buttery smooth action and took the harshness out of the front forks. I can still go to the track, just need to wind on a bit more comp/reb. The 2005 forks has stiffer top out springs that I would have liked too!

For the shock the main change was taking out some of the high speed compression damping. As I needed it to go over the bumps, I was finding the shock way too hard and quite abusive to my arse end, and the bike! Sag was then set correctly as well, so it behaves very well over the bumps.

I dropped the forks through the clamps 3mm as well. I'd prefer to shim the shock, but haven't managed to get into it and change it yet. Now that I'm running the proper sag, it's thus dropped the bum a bit.

It all depends on how much you weigh, where you ride, and how much you want to push it. For me, I don't have to be going at track speeds to notice a very nice improvement. Better turn in, settled the front end down *alot* (ie, very few slappers now) and I can go through a corner feeling confident that if I hit a ripple or various bumps that it will soak them up nicely and not unsettle the bike. The rear shock still has a bit of trouble with corrugations mid corner, but that's what you pay $$$ for something like an Ohlins, Elka, Penske etc.

I'd honestly say there's probably two kinda of people. Those who get their suspension modified and swear by it, and those who are yet to get it done and see the light. I'll admit the ZX10R was reasonably well set up out of the box, alot better than some other bikes I've ridden, but it still leaves room for change.

Find a reputable suspension tweaker and have a chat. There's a raft of options that go into it, and no two people are ever the same. Take for example that in Oz you really wouldn't go any further than a .92kg front fork spring or so, but over in the states you guys seem to be able to run .1 and .15s on the street on your buttery smooth roads.
 

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I'd suggest those mods to your suspension are in the same boat as mapping your bike for the pipe/system. Most people don't know if it's worth doing until they get it done. Once they do, they wouldn't have another bike without it. It's anight and day difference if done right for your riding and weight etc, as futant said. And it's not just about bumps etc, the bike will hold lines better, and change direction so much easier etc etc
 

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Birdman said:
I'd suggest those mods to your suspension are in the same boat as mapping your bike for the pipe/system. Most people don't know if it's worth doing until they get it done. Once they do, they wouldn't have another bike without it. It's anight and day difference if done right for your riding and weight etc, as futant said. And it's not just about bumps etc, the bike will hold lines better, and change direction so much easier etc etc
Yep, absolutely. The confidence factor is huge. Just feels so stable yet better turn in, holds the line very well and direction changes mid corner are no worries.

Custom map, the only way to go.
 
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