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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Riding home tonight from work, I get on the freeway and my ESD warning light comes on, and I can feel the steering damper is not working.
This has happened twice in the past, so I just pull over, turn the bike off, and turn it back on, usually fixes it.

This time however, as I slow down I hear this horrible ticking noise.
Steering damper is still flashing warning after turning bike on and off, and now this noise will not go away, coming from front of engine.

It matches the revs as you can hear, and is loud enough to be heard up to 70kph (45mph) before wind noise drowns it out.

Anyone got ideas what it is? CCT? Valves? Taking it to dealer tomorrow which I'm not happy about as it's my transport.
End of the vid shows difference in sound.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D07nLyFTcs
 

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Sounds like the CCT to me, but it's really hard to tell from the video.

Have you pulled the code yet that's setting off the ESD warning light?
 

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Riding home tonight from work, I get on the freeway and my ESD warning light comes on, and I can feel the steering damper is not working.
This has happened twice in the past, so I just pull over, turn the bike off, and turn it back on, usually fixes it.

This time however, as I slow down I hear this horrible ticking noise.
Steering damper is still flashing warning after turning bike on and off, and now this noise will not go away, coming from front of engine.

It matches the revs as you can hear, and is loud enough to be heard up to 70kph (45mph) before wind noise drowns it out.

Anyone got ideas what it is? CCT? Valves? Taking it to dealer tomorrow which I'm not happy about as it's my transport.
End of the vid shows difference in sound.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D07nLyFTcs
Welcome to the wonderful world of Kawasaki and they're crap CCT, they'll fix the issue when people quit buying the bikes I guess.:headshake:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No I haven't pulled the code yet. Had a shit day, then this happened which shit me off, then got home and some other shit stuff gave me the shits so I just went to my office and locked myself in to shit on YouTube. I mean sit.

What's the fix time on the cam chain? Am I looking at weeks for the shop to pull the bike apart etc? I do basic maintenance but nothing like pulling the engine apart.
 

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No I haven't pulled the code yet. Had a shit day, then this happened which shit me off, then got home and some other shit stuff gave me the shits so I just went to my office and locked myself in to shit on YouTube. I mean sit.

What's the fix time on the cam chain? Am I looking at weeks for the shop to pull the bike apart etc? I do basic maintenance but nothing like pulling the engine apart.

My bike sounded the EXACT same when my CCT came off the bike. I'm sure yours just isn't working properly but that sounds like the problem. It can be as simple as getting a new one or it could be something like my issue where they had to pull the head off to reach something that my CCT was eating into. More than likely, they'll be able to fix it the same day they receive the CCT or the next.
 

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No I haven't pulled the code yet. Had a shit day, then this happened which shit me off, then got home and some other shit stuff gave me the shits so I just went to my office and locked myself in to shit on YouTube. I mean sit.

What's the fix time on the cam chain? Am I looking at weeks for the shop to pull the bike apart etc? I do basic maintenance but nothing like pulling the engine apart.
Pull the lower right fairing off the bike. Take the spring retaining bolt out of the back of the CCT. Stick a small screw driver in the spring opening and push the CCT plunger out a notch or 2. Put the bolt back in with the spring and put the fairing back on. 20-30mins of effort.
 

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No,no,no dont do it that way :headshake::headshake::headshake::headshake::headshake:
Please advise why you disagree? I've done it several times. It will not over-tension chain or guide at all like a manual one can. Won't damage the CCT. And is way more effective if you use a wrench on the timing rotor to take up the slack on the front side of the timing chain while advancing the CCT plunger slightly.

Backing the mounting bolts out slightly and letting the plunger extend before forcing it back into the hole is a much WORSE way of doing it and can stress the chain and tensioner.
 

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Please advise why you disagree? I've done it several times. It will not over-tension chain or guide at all like a manual one can. Won't damage the CCT. And is way more effective if you use a wrench on the timing rotor to take up the slack on the front side of the timing chain while advancing the CCT plunger slightly.

Backing the mounting bolts out slightly and letting the plunger extend before forcing it back into the hole is a much WORSE way of doing it and can stress the chain and tensioner.
I agree with the Dork. If you do it SkyDork's way the plunger takes out the chain slack without having excess tension caused by the mounting bolts pulling the tensioner even farther in.
 

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Riding home tonight from work, I get on the freeway and my ESD warning light comes on, and I can feel the steering damper is not working.
This has happened twice in the past, so I just pull over, turn the bike off, and turn it back on, usually fixes it.

This time however, as I slow down I hear this horrible ticking noise.
Steering damper is still flashing warning after turning bike on and off, and now this noise will not go away, coming from front of engine.

It matches the revs as you can hear, and is loud enough to be heard up to 70kph (45mph) before wind noise drowns it out.

Anyone got ideas what it is? CCT? Valves? Taking it to dealer tomorrow which I'm not happy about as it's my transport.
End of the vid shows difference in sound.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D07nLyFTcs

CCT for sure mind made the same noise after 1000klm's so they replaced the CCT, 2 weeks later it went again another CCT, then that one failed so back to the shop this time they put in an updated CCT and the problem seems to have gone
 

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'16 ZX-10R KRT
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Try a larger heavier spring
:lol: Well, you're not wrong.

Do you happen to have any specs on said spring? Free length? Force? Diameter? Where to get one? :idea:

You still haven't really addressed why manually extending the plunger is so bad in your opinion. Once the plunger is extended out, it's mechanically restricted from retracting. So once it's extended to take up the slack in the chain causing the noise, it shouldn't have to be adjusted again for a very long time. The cam chain is pretty strong and won't stretch much once the initial run-in is complete. The new chain will stretch a bit and if the cam lobes are not sequenced right to allow the CCT to extend a notch or 2, it just needs a bit of help. There's no issues with helping the plunger take up the slack to stop the noise if it's done in the proper fashion.
 

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I agree with the Skydork method but was unable to get a screwdriver or allen wrench into the spring hole due to water pump and hose being right in the way. I didn't feel like draining the coolant so screwed the center bolt back in and tried backing out the two CCT mounting bolts until they almost fell out but my CCT never budged and reset even after some fairly vigorous jiggling. So I finally said screw it, I'll fix it later.
 

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I agree with the Skydork method but was unable to get a screwdriver or allen wrench into the spring hole due to water pump and hose being right in the way. I didn't feel like draining the coolant so screwed the center bolt back in and tried backing out the two CCT mounting bolts until they almost fell out but my CCT never budged and reset even after some fairly vigorous jiggling. So I finally said screw it, I'll fix it later.
The water pump is in front of the countershaft sprocket on the left side. The thermostat housing is what is behind the CCT.

You can use a smaller allen key, a small screwdriver, or what I've had good luck with is a 1/4" socket extension bar 3" long. You can pinch the hose down slightly and go in at an angle to get it in far enough. (That's what she said :wink:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Oh that sounds pretty easy. I thought it was like major surgery, taking the top end off or something.

Dropped it off to the shop today. They said they've had a couple come in like that, and Kawi Australia has said they are aware of it. They've got new parts being made by the factory, but haven't initiated a recall yet, and are dealing with them as they come in.
First call they said Kawi will tell them to tighten it, then if that doesn't fix it, replace them with the parts sent.
The shops demo had the same problem.

As for the steering damper not working, they haven't seen that on the new gens, only once on a 2014 model.
 

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Oh that sounds pretty easy. I thought it was like major surgery, taking the top end off or something.

Dropped it off to the shop today. They said they've had a couple come in like that, and Kawi Australia has said they are aware of it. They've got new parts being made by the factory, but haven't initiated a recall yet, and are dealing with them as they come in.
First call they said Kawi will tell them to tighten it, then if that doesn't fix it, replace them with the parts sent.
The shops demo had the same problem.

As for the steering damper not working, they haven't seen that on the new gens, only once on a 2014 model.
Pulling the cam chain tensioner out is relatively straight forward, right side lower fairing and upper if you really want, then next to the coolant hose you will see the tensioner, 2 bolts and its out. Very straight forward for a mechanic, you'd spend more time pulling fairings than undoing the tensioner. Iv found if you ride it hard the slack seems to build up between the cam chain and the tensioner which leads to that rattle noise. There isnt really a fix apart from them putting a heavier spring in so that it keeps pushing the cam chain guide.
 

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The water pump is in front of the countershaft sprocket on the left side. The thermostat housing is what is behind the CCT.

You can use a smaller allen key, a small screwdriver, or what I've had good luck with is a 1/4" socket extension bar 3" long. You can pinch the hose down slightly and go in at an angle to get it in far enough. (That's what she said :wink:)
Yep, it is the thermostat, not the pump that's in the way, my bad.
 
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