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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Update! Decided it would be good to update the first page. I have listed what the bike is now, compared to what I thought it would be when I got it.


Hey all,

So I am new to the Kawasaki world (sport bikes anyway) and new to this forum. I have already introduced myself in the new member area and I wanted to start a bike build thread here. I just purchased my new 2012 ZX10R last week. So far it is bone stock, except mirror delete/barend mirrors, rear fender delete and frame sliders.

I am planning on doing quite a bit to the bike:

Performance:

ECU/Power Commander/Bazzaz First I did the wire mod, then I added a PC5 with Autotune and now I have undid the wire mod and flashed the ECU with the Woolich racing software.

exhaust Currently running a hand welded link pipe with a HotBodies Racing MGP muffler

suspension/chassis set up Still stock, w/ heavier rear spring, track tuned

Quick Shift NOPE!!!

Chain/Sprockets stayed with 530, -1 front +1 rear

Tires Bridgestone V02 slicks

Other:

Levers Vortex clutch lever, Brembo RCS19 master cylinder and lever

Rearsets Vortex, love 'em!

Brakelines Some aftermarket, dont remember

Windscreen,Hotbodies Undertail HotBodies WSBK bodywork and windscreen

Dream:

OZ wheels Its nice to dream


So That is my plan, but there are obviously variables. First, I am balancing the idea of the Kawasaki Race ECU vs. a reflashed stock ECU and bazzaz/power commander. The only thing that concerns me is warranty. If you get a race ECU, does it void your warranty?

Woolich is awesome, so tuneable!

Exhaust, I am thinking of the Yosh R-77D Carbon 3/4 system. I like this, becuase of look and price. Not a huge fan of the polished stainless, but the muffler is beautiful. I would love a full system, but what is the real performance difference between that and a full system? Maybe less than a pound of weight? + 1 or 2 hp? If that is it, I am fine with the huge cash savings.

I'm a cheap ass, so my home welded link pipe is fine

I'm considering the Ohlins TTX Mechatronic shock. Anyone else have a suggestion that is on that level? I am not biased to Ohlins, personally, I think they are a bit of a gimic usually, but a shock that controls itself to conditions sounds cool. Maybe I am dreaming, I mean, I want it to be the shock from the BMW, maybe it is nothing close. So yea, looking for ideas.

I am just gonna ride the for for a while and adjust it a bunch and see what I like.

Again, I'm poor/cheap so I am all stock, w/ a stiffer spring in the rear. I set the chassis up to what Joey Lombardo recommends.

As for sprockets, the bike has a 525 chain stock, yea? Is switching that to 520 wise? I mean, the bike puts out a ton of power and what do you gain from 520? A little weight savings? I guess that there are 520 chains everywhere, in case you broke one, but that seems needless security.

Anyway, thats my general layout. Give in put if you like. I will update this when I start doing all the work. It will prob be a month or 2 before I really get down to it, I just wanted to get it started.

Here is the bike as it sits now.

Here's what is looks like now!









 
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i think maybe on the sprockets, just go with ultra light weight (renthal/supersprox)
i have researched about the 520 chains and the "tensil" strength is only a few hundred pounds of difference between the sizes of 520/530....also the rotational mass comes into play....i failed math...so i wont get into that, someone else can explain whether or not its worth the money lol

exhaust...i dont know on 4th gens....but plenty of owners in here that can speak up...if not
pm garth

good luck man
sick bike!!


oh and as for the levers...i just got my CRG RC2's and they are bad a**
pm riders discount for those
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, the reason I want those levers is adjustment. They have the adjuster wheels like ASV but are much cheaper. I have very large hands Pazzo and the like with the click adjust do not provide enough throw for me.

I will see what some people say about the exhaust and chain. The chain thing is only strength related, I want the best compromise of stregth and weigth and I wonder if there is much between 525 and 520.

And yes, I am gonna see what people have experieced with different exhaust. I like to consider myself quick, but I doubt there are many riders who can feel the differnce between 178 and 179 hp.

Thanks
 

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Graves 3/4 ti system is the best bang for the$ good power and sound. welcome and enjoy
 

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Subscribed. I look forward to following your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yea, i agree the shock is reasonable. At only a couple hundo over regular its def worth the slight increase. I also didn't realize that Elka and Penske are $1100 plus.

Sent from the grid
 

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About your worry of having the race ecu vs the flashed ecu
Both will void your warranty.

Welcome, and i will keep track of this build.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So to be blunt, if I keep the stock ecu, and swap it back if there is an issue, how would they know?

Sent from the grid
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the welcome

Sent from the grid
 

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About your worry of having the race ecu vs the flashed ecu
Both will void your warranty.

Welcome, and i will keep track of this build.
So to be blunt, if I keep the stock ecu, and swap it back if there is an issue, how would they know?

Sent from the grid
Tell Guhl not to engrave your ECU. Then, when you get it back, just peel off his sticker and nobody will be the wiser.

However, the cheapest and easiest way to unlock the power is to just do the wire mod, but doing this may leave a sign of tampering, I don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am not really concerned with "cheapest", and please don't take me as a snob, its just that I spent plenty to buy this bike, so im not gonna skimp when it comes to modding.

Question about the race ecu, does it disable anything? Someone told me last night that your ignition switch gets deleted. I got the picture it was fully functional on a street bike, just crazy tunable? Can anyone answer that question?

Sent from the grid
 

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Squid wannabe
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I cant tell if they would know.
I dont think they would unless they tried very hard.
 

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My advice is go with the Guhl reflash, I too was thinking race ECU but its a waste of money and basically I dont need all those xtras since I just ride on streets and will soon occasionally hit the track. and the price difference is a big WOW! I think the race ECU is a bit over priced compared to Guhl for i think 325 with out the shipping. For exhaust its your own preference. IMO I love the graves and should have gotten that but ended up with the M4 slip on gp style and love that too. as far as full system, I say forget it! why would you dumped a race sped header that comes stock? but good luck with your build and looking good
 

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I am not really concerned with "cheapest", and please don't take me as a snob, its just that I spent plenty to buy this bike, so im not gonna skimp when it comes to modding.

Question about the race ecu, does it disable anything? Someone told me last night that your ignition switch gets deleted. I got the picture it was fully functional on a street bike, just crazy tunable? Can anyone answer that question?

Sent from the grid
remember your bike is made for the streets so I am sure the race ECU will disable a few things
 

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^Ya you need to install a switch for the fan since there is nothing there to have it run when your bike gets to a certain temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I agree on the exhaust. I might have a line on an Austin from a friend, so will grab that if it is cheap. As for the ECU, I look at it this way. Race ecu is 1100 plus a quick shift sensor, I think $125. So basically 1200. With reflash, its $375 shipped, plus $300 for power commander, plus (i think) $250 for quick shift. total of basically 9. So for 300 I get fully tunable traction control, launch control and much more adjustment on the map. I am probably going to start racing the bike, so especially the launch control and finely adjustable traction control seem really nice. But yes, it is a big consideration. I am still weighing it. We shall see.
 

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Dont get to hot & horny about the launch control. It just limits your revs while in 1st gear. As soon as U shift to 2nd its disabled.
The race ECU is ideal for the track. It also has engine braking. (not sure if U mentioned that)
Good luck with your build.
 
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