Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I have a slip-on can on my bike but I'm planning to put the stock back on for track duty. I want to remove the guts of the stock can and I'm wodering - do I have to replace it with some kind of packing or can I just leave a big empty can? How will it affect performace? What PC3 map should I use?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
681 Posts
I have done that already, and it is a pretty lengthy process to get the pipe back together firmly.

I am hoping you don't think that taking those three screws off the end can open it up, that would be nice, but...........it is only there for cosmetics.

This is what I did, I will try to post a pic tomorrow, just started to polish it so that is why I am so slow.

Here was my process:

I took the canister and cut the aluminum at the weld on the bottom and removed the ti cosmetic piece on the end (the cover with the 3 allen screws), then took a 5# sledge and 3 ft pipe and hammered the living shit out of it to get the "core" out. To do that I put the mount bracket on a piece of wood and hammered down, it took a lot of hammering and time to finally get it all out (I had previously removed the cat, so when I cut the weld the bottom piece came right off) Now I had a "perforated" piece made at work (that is the center core in the after market pipes that has all the holes in it that runs through the center of the pipe). I made it about 2 1/2 in diameter and about 1" longer than my can. I welded it together then wrapped it with steam piping fiberglass insulation (same as the stuff you can get at the store, but why pay right?) and used lockwire wrapped around it to make sure it was REALLY tight and compressed. I then had the large oval (empty) can welded to the aluminum base plate where I cut the weld. I then "flanged" out the "perforated" piece to match the ti cosmetic piece that was screwed to the outside of the stock can. I made it so the ti piece would sit just inside the flange, but firm. I then slid the completed core into the empty canister (this was a real pain because you want as much packing as you can get around it of course). Then put on the ti cosmetic piece then I used a piece of aluminum that was about 1/8" thick and welded it over the ti piece. Cleaned it all up and bang, there she is!

I hope I have given you a good enough description. I think I can get a pic loaded now, I hope!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
681 Posts
I will try to get a better pic tomorrow or something when I don't have to use a flash in my garage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,042 Posts
Very interesting you will have to get a dyno run done so we can see if it made a diffrence. I'm sure you did it for cosmetic purposes though, still it would be interesting to know.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top