Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
•Support the engine with a suitable stand.
○Put the planks onto the suitable stand for engine balance.
○Support the engine until all bolts have been tightened.

Straight from the service manual and if you didn't do this what you described happening happens.

As for being worried, unless the bolt backs out you should be fine. However, if it backs out on its own you are in for some serious work.
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
'16 ZX-10R KRT
Joined
·
15,701 Posts
•Support the engine with a suitable stand.
○Put the planks onto the suitable stand for engine balance.
○Support the engine until all bolts have been tightened.

Straight from the service manual and if you didn't do this what you described happening happens.

As for being worried, unless the bolt backs out you should be fine. However, if it backs out on its own you are in for some serious work.

Yeah, the motor shifted and the hole is likely not lined up and cross threaded. Considering the hole is no longer lined up, neither is the bolt and the frame is being stressed slightly at that point since you can't get the proper torque. Since the bolt is cross threaded, it's not going to back out or anything since it's basically jammed in there.

Yes, I would be a little worried. I'd remove the bolt, get the hole properly aligned by supporting the motor, and chase the threads with a tap to clean them up. The stress on the frame and slight twisting is over stressing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hmm.

It torqued down to spec just fine.

I know it was more effort that normal to put the bolt in but it did not take more effort than the 32 ft lbs of torque to put the bolt in.
In fact when I torqued it down it took 1/4 turn before the torque wrench clicked.

You really think the frame is stressed?
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
'16 ZX-10R KRT
Joined
·
15,701 Posts
Hmm.

It torqued down to spec just fine.

I know it was more effort that normal to put the bolt in but it did not take more effort than the 32 ft lbs of torque to put the bolt in.
In fact when I torqued it down it took 1/4 turn before the torque wrench clicked.

You really think the frame is stressed?
Yeah, I wouldn't want that on my ride. Is the bolt torqued properly? Or are you measuring the torque to keep cutting new threads in the hole due to the cross threading? You don't really know.

The frame is supposed to sit square against the motor mount in that area. The bolt is there to hold that alignment. Since the threads are probably mushed in there and the frame is being slightly twisted because the motor isn't straight, there's additional stress on it. Is that going to be enough to cause a weld to break if you land a wheelie hard? Nah, I doubt it. But if you drop the bike on that frame slider, you don't exactly know how that shock will get transmitted through the frame and engine and you may have bigger issues then.

If it were my bike, I'd re-do it to make sure it was correct.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,529 Posts
Two scenarios - First, the motor shifted and put stress on the bolt, as you threaded the motor shifted back into place. No harm no foul. Second, the motor shifted and you cross threaded the motor mount OR the frame mount. If it were me, I'd pull out the bolt and deal with the damage for a few reasons. First, there is a good chance you probably have enough good threads that you can chase it with a tap and fix the issue. Second, if the frame distorted you "could" get weird handling anomalies. And another thing to consider is the frame is designed to move and flex as you ride to help with handling characteristics. If the frame is distorted to fit the motor there is a possibility that the frame "could" start to crack under stress.

I'm not saying this IS going to happen, these are just possible scenarios that I have seen numerous times while repairing bent frames. Personally, I'd rather deal with a cross threaded bolt vs a cracked frame.
 

·
The Pace
Joined
·
7,161 Posts
I'd back it out and look at the bolt for shards. Regardless of shards or not I'd clean and then concentrate on the re-entry making certain all straight and feeling for the good starting twist by pulling a bit to make certain all good. I never torque that bolt but snug down. Since you're pulling hair I'd ride a few hundred miles and then check that bolt with wrench making certain that I'm not trying to tighten more. (don't want to break that bolt) The slider itself will always turn over the bolt in that location if I recall so don't stress if it turns while when you fool with it on the loop as bolt is most likely tight. No way the engine shifted unless you rode it without the bolt and I mean rode it hard, imo.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top