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Im looking to build a custom turbo kit for my Gen4 and curious on what the safe number is for the motor to hold up to is? Has anyone on here ever turbo their Gen4?
 

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There are a LOT of variables to answer for there before you're going to get a useful answer.

How much do you want to make? What sort of motor mods are you willing to do? Application (street, strip, land speed, starbucks)? Fuel you want to run? How deep are your pockets?

If you do it properly, just about any factory NA motor can handle 5-7psi safely... sometimes more depending on what you're doing. 5-7psi is a 33-50% increase in HP... so take whatever dyno number you believe and add that to it. It'll be gnarly, fo sho.
 

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Your psi math is pretty accurate Spaz, 7psi netted me roughly half again of what the n/a whp should be...14psi is netting roughly 110-115% of stock whp on my first gen's stock rotating assembly. I'm probably pretty close to the safe limit on mine.

I know some people have boosted their 4th gens, but I'm unsure of what has been done to them or the power they make.
 

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Stage 1: ZX10 7psi boost 270 RWHP / 130ft/lbs torque

Turbo Kit Parts
Borg Warner S200
Turbosmart 38mm wastegate
Turbosmart Race port BOV
Modified turbo to suit bike application
Header
aluminium airbox plenum
brackets and fasteners
oil feed line and fittings to turbo
dash10 oil return line and fittings from turbo
air up pipe
Silicone joining pieces and jubilee clips
vacuum and fuel hoses and fittings
air filter
St.St exhaust link pipe turbo to silencer

Engine parts
heavy duty clutch spring kit with spacers and bolts
spacer head gasket and cover gaskets and oil filter

Fueling Parts
Walbro uprated Fuel pump
Adjustable Fuel regulator and fittings

Electrical / Engine management Options
Dynojet powercommander 5
Dynojet Second Fuel Module SFM
3bar map sensor and connectors
^^--- Roughly $5600 not considering labor costs or shipping costs




Stage 2: ZX10R 16psi boost 400 RWHP / 160ftlbs
Turbo Kit Parts and Fuelling Parts (as above plus extra parts as listed below)

chargecooler
electric water pump for chargecooler and hoses and fittings

Engine parts (As above plus extra parts as listed below)
heavy duty cylinder studs and nuts
Carrillo conrods
CP turbo custom pistons
Lock up clutch

Electrical / Engine management
Motec full stand alone engine management
Motec M84 ECU full stand alone engine management with data logging and wideband lambda
cam sensor
Motec wiring harness fitted
igntion amplifier
wideband lambda sensor
3bar map sensor and connectors
^^--- Roughly $12,300 (includes the $5600 in parts from the stage 1 kit). This too does not consider labor/shipping costs.
 

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Similar price point to the Muzzy kits for the first gen, except those didn't include internals and the s1 and s3 kits weren't very similar. :lol:
 

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Your psi math is pretty accurate Spaz, 7psi netted me roughly half again of what the n/a whp should be...14psi is netting roughly 110-115% of stock whp on my first gen's stock rotating assembly. I'm probably pretty close to the safe limit on mine.
:biggrin: Some make a little more, some make a little less... but it's a pretty good rule of thumb. These high VE motors freakin' love boost, so long as you size & match your components properly.

As far as how much power is safe? Once you're past that initial 5ish it's a tricky question. With water/meth injection I ran 10-11psi on a bone stock 2nd Gen motor at nearly stock timing levels (pulling about .15-.2 degrees per psi) with no other charge cooling, and it hauled ass & stayed together.... even the stock clutch. I wouldn't try that with an arm and drag racing though... I fear the clutch basket would be unhappy about that; For a streetbike it was fine. Run it out of water/meth or get it a little lean on a big pull and it will go boom when it's wound that tight. I don't know if I'd try 11psi on a 2 mile pull on a hot Arizona day on pump gas either.... it's all about application, ya know?
 

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Similar price point to the Muzzy kits for the first gen, except those didn't include internals and the s1 and s3 kits weren't very similar. :lol:
Those prices are converted from sterling pounds to USD. These are the kits that Holeshot Racing offers. My friend Cecil rode their stage II bike at the Worlds Fastest Wheelie competition last year. He said it was frickin' gnar...

Plans were to come back this year and build up his own 4th gen with their kit to practice stateside then try again next year. Then the H2 was announced. Those plans got scrapped, 4th gen got sold and an H2 was purchased :)
 

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I would totally spend 6k on a 250whp turbo kit if somebody make a 100% no welding or crazy shit bolt on deal.
If you could get 9 or so other people to do the same I know a few people who would/could put that together. Sadly, for every 20 people that say they'll do it at the drop of the hat, 1 or 2 may actually show up with money. It's damn frustrating.
 

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That stage 1 one kit would be awesome LOL!
 

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:biggrin: Some make a little more, some make a little less... but it's a pretty good rule of thumb. These high VE motors freakin' love boost, so long as you size & match your components properly.

As far as how much power is safe? Once you're past that initial 5ish it's a tricky question. With water/meth injection I ran 10-11psi on a bone stock 2nd Gen motor at nearly stock timing levels (pulling about .15-.2 degrees per psi) with no other charge cooling, and it hauled ass & stayed together.... even the stock clutch. I wouldn't try that with an arm and drag racing though... I fear the clutch basket would be unhappy about that; For a streetbike it was fine. Run it out of water/meth or get it a little lean on a big pull and it will go boom when it's wound that tight. I don't know if I'd try 11psi on a 2 mile pull on a hot Arizona day on pump gas either.... it's all about application, ya know?

The only thing mine currently has apart from a completely stock engine is a ported head, studs, and stronger head gasket IIRC. Otherwise, it runs on 93 pump gas. Tuning is all a game of preventing detonation while keeping the a/f ratio in check. At some point though, the rotating assembly cannot take the stress and goes kaboom.
 

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The rotating assemblies can take a lot more stress than most people realize... people blow a lot of stuff up on tuning mistakes and call it a hardware failure at the end of the day. I reality, the stock parts with stronger head fasteners, stronger rod bolts, and a better clutch package will do outright amazing shit. But I certainly agree there is a limit... most people just prefer to overbuild rather than find out where that is the hard way. :)
 

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The rotating assemblies can take a lot more stress than most people realize... people blow a lot of stuff up on tuning mistakes and call it a hardware failure at the end of the day. I reality, the stock parts with stronger head fasteners, stronger rod bolts, and a better clutch package will do outright amazing shit. But I certainly agree there is a limit... most people just prefer to overbuild rather than find out where that is the hard way. :)

Yep....I don't want to learn the hard way by popping an engine, so I'm not adding more boosts. It already seems to defy the laws of physics when accelerating now, I don't think I could fathom more power. :headshake:
 
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