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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #1
I just recieved mine and have read about be careful finger tight only but that's it. The instructions says:

" To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner in. When you feel the engine tensioners parts ( guide, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam cam chain, back the tensioner bolt up 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut."

Do I really need to put the bike in gear and try to adjust it while moving or am I over anaylzing this?

Tips and Advice...If I see some good tips how to do this properly and easy I will make it a 'Sticky' in the forum section.

Thanks,
bloo
 

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That's funny that you just posted this, cause I was JUST googling them and I think I will be getting one also.

I think rotate engine forward=manually turn the crankshaft.
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #3
That's funny that you just posted this, cause I was JUST googling them and I think I will be getting one also.

I think rotate engine forward=manually turn the crankshaft.
How did you turn the crankshaft? did you actually take covers off and rotate because then it will take a 2 person job....I am looking for what's easy with 1 person.

bloo
 

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How did you turn the crankshaft? did you actually take covers off and rotate because then it will take a 2 person job....I am looking for what's easy with 1 person.

bloo
Yessir. As a matter of fact, I just got out of the garage re-installing and adjusting the stock CCT. You should be able to do it by yourself. Left hand on the MCCT, right hand on a wrench to turn the motor. They are right next to each other. You may need to reseal the crankshaft cover though. I used Black RTV, it helps keep the rubber seal in the groove too when you go to put it back on because the seal will probably pop off when you take it off and mine was a bitch to get back in. I ended up cutting a little piece off and filled the empty spot with honda bond.
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #5
Yessir. As a matter of fact, I just got out of the garage re-installing and adjusting the stock CCT. You should be able to do it by yourself. Left hand on the MCCT, right hand on a wrench to turn the motor. They are right next to each other. You may need to reseal the crankshaft cover though. I used Black RTV, it helps keep the rubber seal in the groove too when you go to put it back on because the seal will probably pop off when you take it off and mine was a bitch to get back in. I ended up cutting a little piece off and filled the empty spot with honda bond.

That's the info I was looking for :thumbsup: unless others chime in just take the bolts off install the Manual and screw down finger tight then done:dontknow:

It seems may need to take cover off turn and adjust at the same time.

Anyone else?

bloo
 

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That's the info I was looking for :thumbsup: unless others chime in just take the bolts off install the Manual and screw down finger tight then done:dontknow:

It seems may need to take cover off turn and adjust at the same time.

Anyone else?

bloo
Bloo, the manual states that when re-installing the CCT, or MCCT in your case, "turn the crankshaft 2 turns clockwise to allow tensioner to expand and recheck camshaft chain timing.
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #7
Bloo, the manual states that when re-installing the CCT, or MCCT in your case, "turn the crankshaft 2 turns clockwise to allow tensioner to expand and recheck camshaft chain timing.
I think we are getting somewhere now...automatic SHOULD adjust against the guide automatically after 2 revolutions but Manual needs to "FEEL" the guide meaning turn the bolt in and then reverse 1/4 turn after that.....agree?


bloo
 

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I think we are getting somewhere now...automatic SHOULD adjust against the guide automatically after 2 revolutions but Manual needs to "FEEL" the guide meaning turn the bolt in and then reverse 1/4 turn after that.....agree?


bloo
Yea, like what it says in your first post. I guess you would just start turning the motor first and slowly turn the manual adjuster and wait for the "feel" Let us know how it is when you do the install.

Thing is though, at how many miles do you have to adjust them usually? Maybe Garth, or whoever else runs one, can give us some insight on that.

I'm at the point of either replacing mine with OEM or get a manual, because the spring just doesn't have enough tension now to push out the shaft enough for proper tension. The owner of the small shop I go to was telling me he's surprised mines lasted this long. I never realized you had to change them out?
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #9
Yea, like what it says in your first post. I guess you would just start turning the motor first and slowly turn the manual adjuster and wait for the "feel" Let us know how it is when you do the install.

Thing is though, at how many miles do you have to adjust them usually? Maybe Garth, or whoever else runs one, can give us some insight on that.
I am thinking when it's starts to get noisy again :dontknow: I do know I don't trust the stocker Automatic anymore. :headshake
 

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I am thinking when it's starts to get noisy again :dontknow: I do know I don't trust the stocker Automatic anymore. :headshake
What happened with it?
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #11

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It didn't work Automatically after milage or else I wouldn't have bought the Manual. :idea::wink:
K gotcha, wasn't sure if it was something else, never know.
Same reason I'm getting an OEM or manual now too.
 

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After 3 factory ccts I put a A.P.E manual one in mine and it is holdin up well so far, no more rattle.:cool:
 

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After 3 factory ccts I put a A.P.E manual one in mine and it is holdin up well so far, no more rattle.:cool:
How often do you find yourself adjusting it though?
 

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I had 2 auto CCT's and a new cam chain and guides under warranty that never did fix the problem on my 2006. I installed the APE and it has been flawless for about 15k miles. To install I put in the new CCT and finger tightened the tensioner as tight as I could- then I backed it out one full turn and started the engine to hear it run. If you hear the ticking it is too loose; if you hear whining it is too tight. You can adjust it while the engine is running until you get it right. It is pretty easy to hear the "sweet range" and leave it there. For adjustment, I use the same method- when you start to hear ticking give it a quarter turn. Usually I need about a quarter turn every 3 thousand miles or so. This is by far the best mod ever as it runs so quiet and smooth now and just takes 15 min to adjust every oil change or less.
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #16
I had 2 auto CCT's and a new cam chain and guides under warranty that never did fix the problem on my 2006. I installed the APE and it has been flawless for about 15k miles. To install I put in the new CCT and finger tightened the tensioner as tight as I could- then I backed it out one full turn and started the engine to hear it run. If you hear the ticking it is too loose; if you hear whining it is too tight. You can adjust it while the engine is running until you get it right. It is pretty easy to hear the "sweet range" and leave it there. For adjustment, I use the same method- when you start to hear ticking give it a quarter turn. Usually I need about a quarter turn every 3 thousand miles or so. This is by far the best mod ever as it runs so quiet and smooth now and just takes 15 min to adjust every oil change or less.
This was the info I was looking for before I installed my Manual...someone with experiance already with the APE.

I tried the turn revolutions 2 times and feel thing and I couldn't feel anything it just stoped by finger.

So then I said forget it will put it in finger tight and just start the bike. I still heard ticking noise...so basicaly while it was running in went slowly in until I can hear a difference. I think I got it to where I want but may need some more adjusting when comparing to other 10s with the APE CCT...did about a 2hour ride the next day and bike ran fine and don't remember the ticking.

Anyway good info. and I didn't take pictures but if you don't mind may just take the steps you described and make a Sticky for the APE since we both have adjusted about the same way.

bloo
 

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Sounds great- glad it worked for you too. Best way to get rid of the noisy zx-10r "ticking" everyone thinks is normal- (fyi- I let the ticking go about 1k miles the first time and when they did the warranty work my cam chain guides were worn enough to need replacement... others SHOULD NOT ignore the ticking sound- and a manual CCT is the only way I have found to fix it):thumbsup:
 

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can we ride yet!?!?!?
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here's something i found... page 3 http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=6933&highlight=chain+tensioner

gotta chime in on this one fellas. be careful how you tension these. I myself would not run one unless the factory item was weak and known to fail. when I had my dragbikes I had to run these, the busa needed one too I hear, but after three factory recalls I figured suzuki had it covered so I never replaced it with mine. the zx10 chain is noisy and drives me crazy but I think it has a ratcheting system and is pretty strong.

On my dragbikes this is what I would do (insert liabilty disclaimer here for those of you not in the know):

On my dragbikes, gs's and kz's - install the new tensioner with a wrench on the crank and the intake cam leaning agains any lobe that would keep the chain tight. once I got the tensioner installed and sure I wouldn't jump any teeth on the cams or crank I would turn the motor backward then forward very carefully to make sure everything was tight and there was no slack. I would never tighten the tensioner with a wrench, always by hand. then I would fire the bike up and adust the tensioner again, BY HAND. let the motor get real warm while you're adjusting it to make sure cylinder and head expansion doesn't overtighen the chain. you can carefully find that spot where the chain just quiets down and doesn't drag the motor idle down . If you're idle slows then you're WAAAY too tight. I wouild always keep in mind the weak little springs the factory would use to keep pressure on the chain. lock her down and you should be good for a few thousand miles, then do it all over again, y'all have fun. and if you blow up yer motor doing this remember the liablity disclaimer I invisibly put up there...
 
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