[flthy1]

This past weekend I put new brakes on my 07 10r, Nissin calipers, spiegler lines, and galfer pads. I went out on sunday with a group of very fast riders and put my bike through my limits, definetly rode her harder than ever before. Well my new brakes worked wonderfully, they for sure saved my @$$ more than once. They were noisy all day with a winding noise but they worked well and towards the end of the day at lower speeds they squeeked a bit, not terribly though. Today(Wednesday) I rode her to work, all seemed fine, on the way home even until I got off on my last exit I heard what sounded like crunching, as I rode into my neighborhood I tested them out from about 20 to 0 hard on the brakes and I get a violent shudder now, I bled and bled but that seems fine, but still I get the shudder. Are my rotors warped somehow? I'm lost everything seemed great till tonight. Does anyone have any clues? Thanks

 

[dirt ninja]

I think you'll notice more shuddering with our wave rotors during slower speed. Atleast i do..

 

[flthy1]

I think you'll notice more shuddering with our wave rotors during slower speed. Atleast i do..

No, it's like the whole front end is gonna fall apart type of shudder, it's downright dangerous.

 

[dirt ninja]

No, it's like the whole front end is gonna fall apart type of shudder, it's downright dangerous.

Sounds like your steering head bearings need to be tightened!:thumbsup:

 

[flthy1]

How do I do that?......... Please.......thank you

 

[PJD]

sounds like your steering head bearings need to be tightened!:thumbsup:

:+1:

 

[TheOriginalNinjaJew]

i have a similar feeling with my 06. stock calipers(dispicable i know) braided lines. anyway i checked my head bearings and tripple clamps.... but it only happends on uneven road, specifically small ripples for me >30mph. it almost feels like i have compression up really high and rebound really low. but it lasts for so little time over ripples i cant tell if im actually ratcheting down. ill play with suspension next day or so and try to confirm/deny it. also have checked ALL mounting bolts seat forward not including swingarm and frame bolts, ive got that wicked 4k rpm buzz so everything was checked within the last month.

 

[PJD]

remove your clip ons. Then remove the steering stem nut and take off your triple tree. There should be 2 large notched disks under the tree. If you dont have the right tool use a ROBERTSONS screwdriver not a flat head and a hammer to tighten the lower of the two. Once you done that tighten down the upper one.

Sorry i can't explain it better but there are some better wrench heads than me here that might be able to help you further.

 

[flthy1]

i have a similar feeling with my 06. stock calipers(dispicable i know) braided lines. anyway i checked my head bearings and tripple clamps.... but it only happends on uneven road, specifically small ripples for me >30mph. it almost feels like i have compression up really high and rebound really low. but it lasts for so little time over ripples i cant tell if im actually ratcheting down. ill play with suspension next day or so and try to confirm/deny it. also have checked ALL mounting bolts seat forward not including swingarm and frame bolts, ive got that wicked 4k rpm buzz so everything was checked within the last month.

Mine rides fine, or at least rode fine, it's justunder very hard braking that I get this shudder.

 

[flthy1]

Thanks PJD and dirt ninja. PJD, that makes sense and you explained it well, do you know what the proper tool is called, I'll stop and buy one tomorrow, also what shouldit be torque to. Sorry for all the questions but all I have is a first gen iPhone(apparently not all gen 1's are fast, LOL) and this is my only Internet access.

 

[TheOriginalNinjaJew]

Mine rides fine, or at least rode fine, it's justunder very hard braking that I get this shudder.

clarifying: mine too, only under very hard braking.

 

[PJD]

Sorry I'm not sure what the tool or the torque value is. There is a link to the shop manual on this forum somewhere.
The boys i ride wih all work on their bikes and they all use the Robertson and hammer technique. It sounds primitive i know but it works well.
Before you go out and buy the tool which i am sure you will have to order try it and see if it makes a difference.
That's what i would do anyways.

 

[dirt ninja]

Your bearing is just now getting sligtly loose and that is why you only have it at hard breaking... Get to a home computer and do a search... Trust me it will be worth it!!! I mashed up my rings using a big screwdriver/punch to tighten up the nut rings...Your suppose to tighten the bottom nut to a certain ft. tq. then back off and then put the top nut on tight...

 

[TMAC]

http://volksdragon.net/dusk/06-07 ...e Manual.pdf You can check to see if it's loose by holding the front brake tight and bouncing the front end too. If you feel any movement aside from natural suspension movement that is your problem

 

[Livin for speed]

What kind of Galfer pads did you install,,, If you used the Gold pads,, they are HH rated pads and will destroy your stock front rotors in a hurry. If you used the Black Galfer pads you should be ok.

 

[abzx10r]

yeah the gold will eat your rotors

 

[flthy1]

I did the front bounce test and didn't seem to feel anything wrong. My pads are the gold ones, it's just what our sponswr sent me, so if my rotors are f'd I saw a post where alth(?) rotors were fairly cheap, will those work with these pads or should I replace the pads? Thanks for the help guys, I'm really appreciating this.

 

[abzx10r]

truthfully I bought the galfer gold pads and installed them on my bike with the stock rotors and it had a little more head shake at low speeds and I noticed after about a week that it was eating my rotors ect, so I bleed the brakes and took them back off and returned them and yes returned them to cycle gear stating that they were causing damage to my bike. They ended up giving so many galfer black pads I wont ever have to buy them again haha, never had headshake or anything since, even though my stock rotors are toast now, in the nexted couple months they have to go!!!

 

[GuitarPlyr]

When I went with some Ferodo pads a couple of years ago, everything was great until a couple hundred miles later. Then, grinding and shaking, so I took em off, put the stock ones back on, no problem since. And I had tightened my head bearings up before that time. I still don't know what the deal was, but I got some nearly new Ferodo pads on the shelf in my garage.

 

[Livin for speed]

I did the front bounce test and didn't seem to feel anything wrong. My pads are the gold ones, it's just what our sponswr sent me, so if my rotors are f'd I saw a post where alth(?) rotors were fairly cheap, will those work with these pads or should I replace the pads? Thanks for the help guys, I'm really appreciating this.

Yes the Alth rotor has more carbon content and is designed to be used with a "Sintered" brake pad. The Galfer "Gold" is a sintered pad. Great for High Speed braking and yes they squeak when they are cold.

If you switch to the Galfer "Balck" pads you should be ok,, the black pads are closer to the stock pads and work well with the factory rotors.