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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been using Woolich autotune on my bike and recently I've noticed that my bike cant really cruise anymore in first or 2nd it's just constantly accelerating. When I am able to get it to cruise it tends to chop or stutter at certain RPM ranges. I've checked the ETV mappings at those rpms and throttle positions and there isnt a big gap ot jump so I'm kind of at a loss as to what may be going on. I just noticed this start last week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Soooo, I'm dumb

Any chance you ran leaded race gas?
Definitely had plain ol' 91 octane, but I found the problem last night. Turns out the woolich auto tune being updated for the IAP mappings had some oddities. Between certain RPM ranges the mapping was going from very low fuel to almost double the amount at the next RPM band, (6000rpm was at 314 and 7000 was at 600+). Which was one of the areas I noticed the lurching. I also knew the lurching was only happening on low throttle position which is why i checked the IAP mappings. Another symptom I was having was an ever growing accelerating at low throttle positioning. I couldn't really cruise at a desired speed I would continually pick up speed in a lot of cases. I revered the IAP map back to stock, and will start tuning the IAP map again, but this time be much more cautious as I apply map changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here is the way i am doing it on another bike, the rider like you wants a low idle RPM so i set it to 1200RPM at idle.
on ignition map, I set his idle Ignition 1 degree higher, on .6 over 1000,1200 and 1400 RPM
IAP map, I change 24 through 18 over 1000 through 1400 RPM for richer fuel its between 400-500 ,you need to do this manually. then bring the Engine data up and look at A/F should be around 11-12 , you may need to add or deduct fuel for the exhaust you are running.
I can definitely second this post!

We tried to account for the idle dip at first by raising idle RPM, we did that up to 1600 rpm and it didn't resolve it. You could tell from the "idle-hunting" as well that something was off. The short M4 pipe and stock ignition/IAP setting below 1600 rpm did not get along even when the fueling was spot on.


^the above was on another forum, I haven't tried it yet, but it seems like it could be a good start for fixing that idle. I know my bike is always hunting for idle so I'm going to give this a shot this weekend, I have a dyno pull on Friday so i don't want to mess with it before then.
 

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Here is the way i am doing it on another bike, the rider like you wants a low idle RPM so i set it to 1200RPM at idle.
on ignition map, I set his idle Ignition 1 degree higher, on .6 over 1000,1200 and 1400 RPM
IAP map, I change 24 through 18 over 1000 through 1400 RPM for richer fuel its between 400-500 ,you need to do this manually. then bring the Engine data up and look at A/F should be around 11-12 , you may need to add or deduct fuel for the exhaust you are running.
I can definitely second this post!

We tried to account for the idle dip at first by raising idle RPM, we did that up to 1600 rpm and it didn't resolve it. You could tell from the "idle-hunting" as well that something was off. The short M4 pipe and stock ignition/IAP setting below 1600 rpm did not get along even when the fueling was spot on.


^the above was on another forum, I haven't tried it yet, but it seems like it could be a good start for fixing that idle. I know my bike is always hunting for idle so I'm going to give this a shot this weekend, I have a dyno pull on Friday so i don't want to mess with it before then.
I agree, i added 1 degree in ignition at 1200-1400 and set afr 12.6 in iap map. 1350 rpms idle set in woolich, working great, stable ! ;)
 
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