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Discussion Starter #1
Before anyone gets the wrong idea, this is 100% legit. I'm in New Zealand and I just purchased a 2017 ZX10RR that does not have a key. The owner was a young guy with to much disposable income ( runs/owns an online casino site and seriously creams it !!) and absolutely no common sense. He moved house 3 months ago and lost his keys ... yes, both of them. A total muppet but he's paid a big price because I got this thing for a seriously good price and it only has 1600kms on the clock (apparently). I've done loads of back ground checks and I have all the the paperwork from him, checked with Kawasaki NZ and it's as stated, 100% legit.
So what now ?
I have the 4 digit number for the key code on the warranty registration certificate and I may be able to get a key cut to suit the barrel and get it recoded by Kawasaki ... is getting a key cut for a barrel even possible without a donor ?

One idea is try some race teams that have ditched the keys and installed a race ECU. ?

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 

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One idea is try some race teams that have ditched the keys and installed a race ECU. ?

Any ideas would be appreciated.
If you're not putting full coverage on the bike then I wouldn't recommend ditching the key. If the bike is insured then you can remove the key for a toggle switch. What I would ALSO do if you decide to bypass the key is buy a kill switch key/lanyard. I included a link. That way you have at least Some kind of key that prevents people from starting your bike and dicking around with it.

https://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/hc01.asp
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, the idea I suggested was not to ditch a keyed ignition but to hear from race teams that had and thus the keys, barrel and ECU surplus. But as you alluded to, it's definitely an option to just use a toggle switch to at least get it running. I'm also guessing that there could be key cutting companies that may have the skills to cut a key to suit the existing barrel through trial and error. Once they hit the jackpot with test blanks, transfer to a genuine ZX10R blank and then get the key code installed.
Not sure if that can be done however.
 

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Well, let me see if I can help here. The problem will be because you are in New Zealand. The Euro models have the anti-theft feature built into the bike. The immobilizer is chipped to the key. Cutting a new key won't really be an option without having a key to match it to.

You'll need to buy a new ignition switch with matching chipped keys and have the immobilizer reprogrammed to the new set. From that point, you have have the fuel cap barrel matched along with the passenger seat. Going to a race ECU is going to be way more expensive and you'll lose other things, like you lights and sidestand.

If it wasn't for the immobilizer function in the Euro version, this would be a cheap way to go, but I don't think this will work correctly if the immobilizer is part of the bike since it won't bypass that. This is for North America versions only that I'm aware.
https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/w...ation-harness/

Glad you got the bike at a good price! Fix this problem and enjoy it!
 

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that link just went to the site no actual product but if it's the woodcraft keyswitch eliminator then it should work. PM me and show me proof the bike is yours and I can probably help you get around the immobilizer
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, let me see if I can help here. The problem will be because you are in New Zealand. The Euro models have the anti-theft feature built into the bike. The immobilizer is chipped to the key. Cutting a new key won't really be an option without having a key to match it to.

You'll need to buy a new ignition switch with matching chipped keys and have the immobilizer reprogrammed to the new set. From that point, you have have the fuel cap barrel matched along with the passenger seat. Going to a race ECU is going to be way more expensive and you'll lose other things, like you lights and sidestand.

If it wasn't for the immobilizer function in the Euro version, this would be a cheap way to go, but I don't think this will work correctly if the immobilizer is part of the bike since it won't bypass that. This is for North America versions only that I'm aware.
https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/w...ation-harness/

Glad you got the bike at a good price! Fix this problem and enjoy it!
Thanks for taking the time to reply, much appreciated.
Yes, it is a Euro model and the ignition clearly says Immobilizer.
My thought was to get some blank keys from Kawasaki, take the bike (or just the fuel cap) to a good locksmith and get him to attempt by trial and error with some donor keys the same shape as the Kawasaki ones until he had found the right configuration. Then cut the Kawasaki ones to suit. I could then take those to Kawasaki for them to program the keys with the 4 digit key code which I have on the warranty registration certificate.
Is this a viable plan ?
I'm assuming there would be some "experts" out there that would know how to go about this process and probably have "experience" from car "transfers" , I'm just not in those circles lol
 

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Thanks for taking the time to reply, much appreciated.
Yes, it is a Euro model and the ignition clearly says Immobilizer.
My thought was to get some blank keys from Kawasaki, take the bike (or just the fuel cap) to a good locksmith and get him to attempt by trial and error with some donor keys the same shape as the Kawasaki ones until he had found the right configuration. Then cut the Kawasaki ones to suit. I could then take those to Kawasaki for them to program the keys with the 4 digit key code which I have on the warranty registration certificate.
Is this a viable plan ?
I'm assuming there would be some "experts" out there that would know how to go about this process and probably have "experience" from car "transfers" , I'm just not in those circles lol

I don't think trial-and-error will work to well for you. I'm not aware of any locksmith tool to match the barrel and cut a key to that. They line up a working key to a blank and cut the key to match and then "try" it out. They can fine tune it after that, but the amount of keys out there is so massive that they will spend countless amounts of time doing that and likely damage a bunch of keys in the process. Maybe there is such a thing, but I don't know and I wouldn't waste the time and money. You're better off just buying a new key/switch combo together as a unit. The gas cap and tail lock will be another hurdle after you get the bike to turn on with the main key.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So the latest is I have ordered a key for the RR model from Kawasaki, the dealer was not sure if it had the immobilizer downloaded onto it but you would think so if its for that model (and the price !!). Then I can take it to a locksmith who can cut it to the keycode which is supplied on the Warranty Registration Certificate. Once that is done I'm hoping it will turn the ignition on but I will then have to take the bike to a dyno tuner guru here who can disable the immobilizer in the ECU. Fingers crossed that this works.
The locksmith has told me that the 4 digit number code on the WRC is what they use to cut the key with, a check on his data base confirmed they had that but he wasn't sure if they had the cutters and dies to suit the shape, although he doubted that the key shapes would be unusual.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't think trial-and-error will work to well for you. I'm not aware of any locksmith tool to match the barrel and cut a key to that. They line up a working key to a blank and cut the key to match and then "try" it out. They can fine tune it after that, but the amount of keys out there is so massive that they will spend countless amounts of time doing that and likely damage a bunch of keys in the process. Maybe there is such a thing, but I don't know and I wouldn't waste the time and money. You're better off just buying a new key/switch combo together as a unit. The gas cap and tail lock will be another hurdle after you get the bike to turn on with the main key.
Yes and possibly no. I agree that it's unlikely there is such a tool to cut to the barrel blind. I was thinking trial and error would be possible since quite a few years ago I was working on a job on a new hotel complex. A painter decided to close all the wall safes that were in each room as he painted around them, but unfortunately he left the keys in each safe lol …… a locksmith was there for a long time making new keys by trial and error to open them all again. Felt pretty sorry the painter lol.
Anyway, it turns out that locksmiths can make keys based on a key code. The immobilizer would not be compatible with the ECU but tuning wizards can unlock all that stuff.
I agree that the buying a new key switch combo is an option if the code thing doesn't work.
 

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that link just went to the site no actual product but if it's the woodcraft keyswitch eliminator then it should work. PM me and show me proof the bike is yours and I can probably help you get around the immobilizer
That Woodcraft keyswitch eliminator only works on race bikes, it cant handle the high current draw of a street bikes lights.
 

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that link just went to the site no actual product but if it's the woodcraft keyswitch eliminator then it should work. PM me and show me proof the bike is yours and I can probably help you get around the immobilizer
That Woodcraft keyswitch eliminator only works on race bikes, it cant handle the high current draw of a street bikes lights.
that's odd, my bike has one and I am running it with all the lights, have dual 55 watt LED headlights, demon eyes, hi low projectors that are always set on high so always drawing power and accent lights, woolich plus log box always drawing power and cellular with gps and RFID and proximity sensor plus FM two way security system again drawing power. the remote kill switch is spliced into the keyswitch eliminator Barnes as well, trust me, they can easily handle the current of a normal bike. the only reason they are for track use only is because they would make a street bike easy as fuck to steal. Mine on the other hand won't start without the RFID I keep on me at all times and even if it's disarmed I have the GPS and cell location with remote kill switch so only use the key to open the back seat or lock out my steering. Point is, they can handle the power. The pic shows the yellow sheathing of the woodcraft harness before it goes under the airbox to plug into that section of my harness
 

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I don't think trial-and-error will work to well for you. I'm not aware of any locksmith tool to match the barrel and cut a key to that. They line up a working key to a blank and cut the key to match and then "try" it out. They can fine tune it after that, but the amount of keys out there is so massive that they will spend countless amounts of time doing that and likely damage a bunch of keys in the process. Maybe there is such a thing, but I don't know and I wouldn't waste the time and money. You're better off just buying a new key/switch combo together as a unit. The gas cap and tail lock will be another hurdle after you get the bike to turn on with the main key.
Yes and possibly no. I agree that it's unlikely there is such a tool to cut to the barrel blind. I was thinking trial and error would be possible since quite a few years ago I was working on a job on a new hotel complex. A painter decided to close all the wall safes that were in each room as he painted around them, but unfortunately he left the keys in each safe lol …… a locksmith was there for a long time making new keys by trial and error to open them all again. Felt pretty sorry the painter lol.
Anyway, it turns out that locksmiths can make keys based on a key code. The immobilizer would not be compatible with the ECU but tuning wizards can unlock all that stuff.
I agree that the buying a new key switch combo is an option if the code thing doesn't work.
there actually is an ignition switch decoder made for nearly every type of lock out there. Check out banggood .com you can pick them up for under 30 bucks. many locksmiths have them already, still either a keyswitch eliminator harness with the correct resistor soldered in would be needed or a new ignition switch if you have a immobilizer version of the bike, fyi the resistor is one that can easily be purchased via Amazon or many local electronic stors for less than 5 bucks for a 10 pack, it's the same as the gsxr resistor. Anyhow the trick is to know which two wires it needs to be soldered between, again it's pretty easy. all the key does is trigger the signal down that wire, the resistance on all the bikes are the same, the key is the only part that is different. Once the Rx picks up the matching key the signal that is sent is the same. It's basically an RFID relay/switch that has a fixed resistance so if the key is to a match then the output of the switch/relay is not sent out with the proper resistance.
 

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there actually is an ignition switch decoder made for nearly every type of lock out there. Check out banggood .com you can pick them up for under 30 bucks. many locksmiths have them already, still either a keyswitch eliminator harness with the correct resistor soldered in would be needed or a new ignition switch if you have a immobilizer version of the bike, fyi the resistor is one that can easily be purchased via Amazon or many local electronic stors for less than 5 bucks for a 10 pack, it's the same as the gsxr resistor. Anyhow the trick is to know which two wires it needs to be soldered between, again it's pretty easy. all the key does is trigger the signal down that wire, the resistance on all the bikes are the same, the key is the only part that is different. Once the Rx picks up the matching key the signal that is sent is the same. It's basically an RFID relay/switch that has a fixed resistance so if the key is to a match then the output of the switch/relay is not sent out with the proper resistance.
Hey thanks for this info. I will PM you for further dialogue when I get a bit further. I purchased a key from a Kawasaki dealer for this model ($93NZ) ( they checked that this was all legit, which it is ) and have had it cut to the code this morning ($23). It's being couriered to me now so should have it tomorrow.
Once I make sure it turns the ignition switch/seat/fuel cap I'll progress to the next step. Being the Euro model it does have the immobilizer so your info is relevant.
I'm planning on taking the bike to a dyno tuning / electronic guru who has said he can delete the immobilizer ?
I'm an engineer, machinist, engine builder, problem solver etc but the electronic world is something I struggle with, which I admit is pathetic because I tend to just avoid it rather than understand it.
Its also been suggested that if I get the FTECU harness etc I can download the USA map into the ECU and that will delete the immobilizer. What's your thoughts on that ?
 

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that's odd, my bike has one and I am running it with all the lights, have dual 55 watt LED headlights, demon eyes, hi low projectors that are always set on high so always drawing power and accent lights, woolich plus log box always drawing power and cellular with gps and RFID and proximity sensor plus FM two way security system again drawing power. the remote kill switch is spliced into the keyswitch eliminator Barnes as well, trust me, they can easily handle the current of a normal bike. the only reason they are for track use only is because they would make a street bike easy as fuck to steal. Mine on the other hand won't start without the RFID I keep on me at all times and even if it's disarmed I have the GPS and cell location with remote kill switch so only use the key to open the back seat or lock out my steering. Point is, they can handle the power. The pic shows the yellow sheathing of the woodcraft harness before it goes under the airbox to plug into that section of my harness

Im glad its working for you, but just keep in mind though that every single amp of current draw on your motorcycle that use to go thru the key switch is now going thru the on / off kill switch and the wiring is way undersized for that. Good luck with it. I hope your bike don't catch on fire.

And call Woodcraft, they will tell you. I know, because I did years ago. I have brand new one if anyone wants it lol.

I was going to take it and use it to trip a relay to handle the current draw and decided it simply wasn't worth the trouble.

Below is a screen shot of the instructions that state the Run / Stop switch version is only capable of safely handling 15 amps.

Im glad its working out for ya anyway.
 

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so it's putting all the current through my run stop switch? ok cool, I'll upgrade the 8nternal contacts in the OEM switch to be able to handle the current safely. My only concern would be my remote kill switch. That has seriously small wire gauge for any serious current which is why I installed it on one of the loop back wires. The same one that would need a resistor if it was a euro model. The woodcraft harness itself is easily able to handle the current that the bike can draw so that is in no way a concern. worst case my run kill switch cooks but it won't cause my bike to burn since it is mounted on the clipon
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Latest is that I received the key from the courier yesterday arfo, so there I was, like a kid opening a pressie and then, with much anticipation, skipping into my bike shed, and with a similar glee to what I vaguely recall as when I had my first sex all those years ago, slid the key it into the ignition.

Drum roll, will it work, am I lucky, will life as I know it be good to me today.

Well, naa, turns out my first poke was way more satisfying although just as quickly over.

Key won't turn in the ignition, fuel cap or tail.
so why not, it's a ZX10R Kawasaki key, the key code was on my registration cert and the locksmith used that code to cut the key.
But no way does it turn.
Guess next step is to try and take the ignition off. Easier said than done when I can't get the steering lock undone nor the tail off to get access under and around the tank to unplug the ignition wire.
This is going to be a challenge.
 

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the ignition is simple to pick with a cheap lock pick set. doesn't take long either but I think I would either raise the key up a tiny bit or get a Dremel and file the top shoulder down to allow the key to set deeper in the ignition before trying anything else since you already have it and paid for it
 

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So I was lucky enough to get hold of a mobile locksmith today. Lucky because I live in a small coastal town a good distance from any major cities here in NZ. He just happened to be coming to this region today and to cut a longish story short he had a key cut that unlocked the fuel cap, tail and steering lock / ignition in no time. I have lights etc and the bike turns over but obviously does not start.
Turns out the other locksmiths had got it completely wrong so the $93 Kawasaki key was now useless which was pretty annoying but countered by the relief of getting it all unlocked. Of course they maintain they dialed in the code I gave them so nothing I can do but suck it in.

I've also spoken to the dyno tuner/electronic techo who has told me that to unlock and disable the immobilizer in the (Euro) ECU he has to buy the FTECU map / license for the USA model, which doesn't have the immobilizer function. That apparently is not simply down loading a new file into the ECU, 16 wires need to be changed in the plug.
I have no idea if that is really what needs to be done, he could be bullshitting but I don't have the knowledge on this to challenge that.

Because it's a decent drive to take the bike to him (3hrs) I'm going to wait until I can score a decat pipe and slip on muffler first and get it tuned properly.

On that note, anybody have an aftermarket muffler / pipe they want to sell ?
 

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I really don't know but I doubt it. The immobilizer apparently works via a resistor in the wiring so the ignition won't work with a US ECU. I would need to get a US ignition switch as well, at least that's what I think is the case, but it's also likely I'm wrong. In any case, this technician can do all the mods, I'm just suspicious about the fact and fiction aspect. It's the only thing on my bikes I avoid tinkering with, it's time I changed that.
 
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