[ATEAV8]

2012 ZX-10R Stock w/ a slip on, bike drops -42hp & -25tq around 11500rpm when the 2ndaries start closing. Swapped in a Guhls reflashed ECU same day no other changes bike made the same power up to about 10500rpm then thats when the guhls reflash only made +8hp over stock until 11500rpm but then drops -31hp & -20tq around 11500rpm and it almost looks as if the 2ndaries are still closing. Granted when the butterflies are still closing its still making more power closed (or closed less) over stock +17 more HP over stuck when they close but there is still a significant dip in power still. Why does this do this?

I dynod in power mode F and traction off. I also swapped in a BMC air filter as my stock one was very dirty and only picked up +1.4hp. A/F are pretty solid in the 12.5-13.0 range. Probably will go leaner on the street due to air cramming in box.

I dynod the bike in F, M and L mode. F &M mode make the same exact power just changes the rev limiter back down to stock and the L mode makes a significant amount of power less to the point I didnt even want to finish making the pull it was so bad but was down about -43hp.

These are my findings. Hopefully someone has an answer to this. Id like to keep the bike pulling to revlimiter. I see dyno sheets out there with the reflash pulling to redline but mine doesnt. Mods to my bike are no cat, slip on, filter.

Ignore power numbers as this is a loaded dyno, not an inertia dyno)

 

[Victors]

No way the secondaries are opening...

 

[ATEAV8]

Agree with Victor, that Guhl flashed ECU isn't doing what it should. Are you sure its Guhl flashed? Take someone word on it? Buy it used?

It is a Guhls.

Here is all power modes dynod vs each other.

It seems as if power mode F & M are exactly the same only difference is the revlimiter. Has anyone dynod each power mode to verify? Im thinking when it was reflashed, maybe power mode F wasnt setup right to keep butterflies open?

 

[ATEAV8]

Here is a pull logging A/F ratio. Seems pretty clean. On the richer side but yure not seeing the air that the bike is used to seeing at higher speeds so its a good thing its in the 12.5 range. A few spots it goes 12.0 which is to rich. When I fix power drop, id like to see wat a/f do up top there because at moment with valves closing its saying 13.0 to lean for dyno but good for street. Id like to dyno 13.0 vs 12.0 and see where the power goes too. There is always an error in widebands so maybe even go 13.5 and see where it stops making power. But first have to fix this drop

 

[White Fang]

Looks like a stock ECU, secondaries open and then close back down after about 11500, HP numbers also appear to be a stock OEM flash. If you know for sure it was supposed to be a Guhls flash contact him and send it back to have it redone, something happened somewhere, maybe it got flashed back to OEM.

 

[ATEAV8]

Looks like a stock ECU, secondaries open and then close back down after about 11500, HP numbers also appear to be a stock OEM flash. If you know for sure it was supposed to be a Guhls flash contact him and send it back to have it redone, something happened somewhere, maybe it got flashed back to OEM.

Its not a stock ECU. Its been reflashed as it has a higher RPM limit and makes more power up top than the stock ECU. I posted stock vs reflash so something is in it. I have receipt from Guhls. Maybe something was just overlooked during reflash is all. I was more asking if there is some failsafe this bike can go in.

 

[White Fang]

Its not a stock ECU. Its been reflashed as it has a higher RPM limit and makes more power up top than the stock ECU. I posted stock vs reflash so something is in it. I have receipt from Guhls. Maybe something was just overlooked during reflash is all. I was more asking if there is some failsafe this bike can go in.

Yes, I merely meant that the dyno chart appeared to be very nearly the same as what one might expect from the stock ECU.

What you have is absolutely not a Guhls reflash, they may have had it in their possession and charged you for a reflash but you did not get a reflash. So call Don and tell him what has happened and I am sure he will cheerfully go over your ECU and see what went awry.

The real tell-tale is the comment by someone else, "no way those secondaries are opening." With the flash they should be fully open beyond about 11500, that is what is restricting the power.

No one can solve this, we can only say that flash is not right, get it fixed by the guy who was supposed to have done it.

Probably something happened and it just got turned around without being flashed, or something was corrupted during the process.

You are right about it, you do not have a proper flash in that ECU.

 

[ATEAV8]

Yes, I merely meant that the dyno chart appeared to be very nearly the same as what one might expect from the stock ECU.

What you have is absolutely not a Guhls reflash, they may have had it in their possession and charged you for a reflash but you did not get a reflash. So call Don and tell him what has happened and I am sure he will cheerfully go over your ECU and see what went awry.

The real tell-tale is the comment by someone else, "no way those secondaries are opening." With the flash they should be fully open beyond about 11500, that is what is restricting the power.

No one can solve this, we can only say that flash is not right, get it fixed by the guy who was supposed to have done it.

Probably something happened and it just got turned around without being flashed, or something was corrupted during the process.

You are right about it, you do not have a proper flash in that ECU.

They did reflash it though. It even has a higher RPM revlimiter. Im not sure you know how to read a dyno graph properly because you can clearly see stock vs reflash and there is a gain on the reflash ecu. I will call him in the morning and probably end up sending my ECU back to him so he can look at the secondary butterfly map to see if they are commanding to be 100% open along with adding the timing up top too. Now that I think of it, I wonder if the timing part of the flash was only done and thats why it makes slightly more power but not the full amount from 2ndaries opening.

 

[White Fang]

I will call him in the morning and probably end up sending my ECU back to him so he can look at the secondary butterfly map to see if they are commanding to be 100% open along with adding the timing up top too. Now that I think of it, I wonder if the timing part of the flash was only done and thats why it makes slightly more power but not the full amount from 2ndaries opening.

Yes sir, that is what I have been suggesting all along. The flash was incomplete.

 

[ATEAV8]

I talked to Don himself at Guhls and he said the flash that he did on the bike was done right. He said he keeps a copy of each flash he does and reviewed mine and said that the 2ndaries are being commanded open 100%. So either there is another issue with my bike going on or somehow the flash/tune got changed. He said I can send him back the ecu to be checked out and verified the tune didnt change but he said there was no way the tune changed unless someone reflashed over what he put in it and I know for a fact I never have. So I guess we will see what tunrs up when I send it back. Meanwhile, is there anything else I can check that would pull power away like this at that RPM? I could just put my bike back on dyno, remove butterflies and get my answer but I didnt want to do that as putting them back in isnt something I want to risk or take the time to do but will if i have to.