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Discussion Starter #1
New gen 5 owner.

In short, my quickshifter (KQS) is not working, at least I think it's not. Unsure if I have an ECU flash at the moment. Feels solid or hard trying to kick up without the clutch lever in any gear. I checked the settings to make sure it's on and it was. It wont even budge in any gear trying to kick up unless I use the clutch lever it shifts fine and smooth all the way to 6th. I did read on a forum tonight that TC (Traction Control) has to be off in order for the quickshifter to work at all. I did not look into this yet since it's late but is that true?

I checked with peers of mine on instagram who have gen 5s and they say my situation is odd and they have no idea.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Sorry if this is asked a lot but I just joined the forum.

- Tim
 

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Well, you got some bad information on how that all works. You don't need the TC turned off for it to work. It should be in any TC mode.

Make sure that the QS is turned on and you see the up arrow indicator on the dash. The QS works in the UPSHIFT direction only. Unless you have a 2019+ with the autoblip downshifting feature stock, you can't use it for downshifts without a reflash. As for the upshifts, it will not work if you're cruising around. The throttle has to be open and you're accelerating. Accelerating pretty hard at that. It's meant for racetrack use. If you use it on the street, treat it like a racetrack when you try getting it to work with the throttle close to wide open. If you try to force the pedal, you'll damage the transmission. But it will require a bit more pressure than normal shifting does. If the sensor was completely inop, you'd see a service code associated with that. If everything else checks out good and you're technique is good, then you'd have to do a resistance and voltage check on the sensor to be sure it has the proper signal voltage back to the ECU.
 

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I agree its either that its off and you didnt notice (maybe put a picture if your screen?) or you are just using it wrong. You have to be accelerating for it to work smoothly and for downshift make sure to close the gas.

Well, you got some bad information on how that all works. You don't need the TC turned off for it to work. It should be in any TC mode.

Make sure that the QS is turned on and you see the up arrow indicator on the dash. The QS works in the UPSHIFT direction only. Unless you have a 2019+ with the autoblip downshifting feature stock, you can't use it for downshifts without a reflash. As for the upshifts, it will not work if you're cruising around. The throttle has to be open and you're accelerating. Accelerating pretty hard at that. It's meant for racetrack use. If you use it on the street, treat it like a racetrack when you try getting it to work with the throttle close to wide open. If you try to force the pedal, you'll damage the transmission. But it will require a bit more pressure than normal shifting does. If the sensor was completely inop, you'd see a service code associated with that. If everything else checks out good and you're technique is good, then you'd have to do a resistance and voltage check on the sensor to be sure it has the proper signal voltage back to the ECU.
Just extra comment that RR and SE have the autoblip downshift too from factory for 2017+
 

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I am now experiencing this same exact issue and have to ask, did you flash your ECU? And if yes, who did the flash?

Are you using Woolich Race Tools? Not saying that Woolich may be suspect, but my quick-shifter (upshifting) is exactly like yours now. It will not upshift at WOT unless I squeeze the clutch level by hand or roll off the throttle a slight bit.

Try this: Go ride and start to increase speed. Attempt to use the quick-shifter from 2nd to 3rd.

Does it shift?
Yes. No issues.

No. Try and roll off the throttle ever so slightly at the same time you thrust your foot up. Do this rather simultaneously. Does it shift now? if yes, then try this method in all gears. It works for me like that in all gears. But if I do NOT slightly roll off the throttle when quick-shifting, it is locked and will not upshift.

I believe this may be suspect to our Quickshifter in Race Tools being turned off due to surging when upshifting, hoping that unchecking that block would allow the stock Kawasaki quick-shifter setting to take precedent.

I am thinking this is NOT the case and that the ECU is still retaining the Race Tools flash with the quick-shifter set to OFF even though the digital display settings shows KQS is ON/ON.

Also, make sure you go through your settings and ensure the KQS is set to: ON/ON.

Keep us posted. Especially if you find a solution.

.
 

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I am now experiencing this same exact issue and have to ask, did you flash your ECU? And if yes, who did the flash?

Are you using Woolich Race Tools? Not saying that Woolich may be suspect, but my quick-shifter (upshifting) is exactly like yours now. It will not upshift at WOT unless I squeeze the clutch level by hand or roll off the throttle a slight bit.

Try this: Go ride and start to increase speed. Attempt to use the quick-shifter from 2nd to 3rd.

Does it shift?
Yes. No issues.

No. Try and roll off the throttle ever so slightly at the same time you thrust your foot up. Do this rather simultaneously. Does it shift now? if yes, then try this method in all gears. It works for me like that in all gears. But if I do NOT slightly roll off the throttle when quick-shifting, it is locked and will not upshift.

I believe this may be suspect to our Quickshifter in race Tools being turned off due to surging when upshifting, hoping that unchecking that block would allow the stock Kawasaki quick-shifter setting to take precedent.

I am thinking this is NOT the case and that the ECU is still retaining the Race Tools flash with the quick-shifter set to OFF.

Also, make sure you go through your settings and ensure the KQS is set to: ON/ON.

Keep us posted. Especially if you find a solution.

.
Well, that actually won't tell you anything other than the problem he already posted about. Backing off the throttle while preloading the shift pedal, or slightly dragging the clutch lever, has nothing to do with the quickshifter. That can be done on any bike and is just a normal clutchless upshift technique. You don't need a quickshifter to do that and will damage the transmission over time since preloading the pedal causes the shift fork to ride on the spinning gear pair which wears it down over time or bends it.

FYI - The Woolich Race Tools settings don't apply to the stock QS sensor. Race Tools is intended to be used with their QS sensor which has more adjustability and sensitivity than the OEM one. You have to replace the OEM one with their sensor for the Race Tool settings to work. Race Tools is an add-on to the normal Woolich reflash software which is for the OEM QS. You can reflash and adjust the OEM settings without ever getting the Race Tools kit. If you want better QS adjustment, pitlane speed limiter, and launch control settings, then the Race Tools is what you need for that. Otherwise, Race Tools is not needed for reflashing. The OP is trying to figure out the OEM system with the factory settings which should work just fine provided the sensor is registering properly and he's using the proper technique with it enabled.
 

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SkyDork, thank you for taking the time to share all that information. I did not know about that clutchless shifting technique until your post. And iIt certainly has me wondering if ordering the Race Tools was an unnecessary step. But my buddy did order it and he said it helped fine tune his shifts. I will verify if he bought the Woolich sensor as well.

But I am confused with a few things you wrote:

• Race Tools is an add-on to the normal Woolich reflash software which is for the OEM QS. But previous to that you said Race Tools only works with their QS sensor, not the OEM sensor. Please clarify?

• You can reflash and adjust the OEM settings without ever getting the Race Tools kit. OEM settings of what, the quickshifter?

• If you want better QS adjustment, pitlane speed limiter, and launch control settings, then the Race Tools is what you need for that. Otherwise, Race Tools is not needed for reflashing.

I have Woolich Racing Kit and the Race Tools. After flashing with Woolich, my bike was lurching forward on downshifts. I purchased Race Tools and Race Tools fixed that. But, then my bike started to lurch on upshifts and now my quickshifter does not operate.

I understand now what you are saying about the throttle techniqe, so that is not an issue any longer since it applies to all bikes. .

I am just baffled why my quickshifter is now locked, like the OP.
 

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SkyDork, thank you for taking the time to share all that information. I did not know about that clutchless shifting technique until your post. And iIt certainly has me wondering if ordering the Race Tools was an unnecessary step. But my buddy did order it and he said it helped fine tune his shifts. I will verify if he bought the Woolich sensor as well.

But I am confused with a few things you wrote:

• Race Tools is an add-on to the normal Woolich reflash software which is for the OEM QS. But previous to that you said Race Tools only works with their QS sensor, not the OEM sensor. Please clarify?

• You can reflash and adjust the OEM settings without ever getting the Race Tools kit. OEM settings of what, the quickshifter?

• If you want better QS adjustment, pitlane speed limiter, and launch control settings, then the Race Tools is what you need for that. Otherwise, Race Tools is not needed for reflashing.

I have Woolich Racing Kit and the Race Tools. After flashing with Woolich, my bike was lurching forward on downshifts. I purchased Race Tools and Race Tools fixed that. But, then my bike started to lurch on upshifts and now my quickshifter does not operate.

I understand now what you are saying about the throttle techniqe, so that is not an issue any longer since it applies to all bikes. .

I am just baffled why my quickshifter is now locked, like the OP.
I'll try to answer your questions here.

• Race Tools is an add-on to the normal Woolich reflash software which is for the OEM QS. But previous to that you said Race Tools only works with their QS sensor, not the OEM sensor. Please clarify
The standard Woolich reflash software allows for OEM quickshifter adjustments. The Race Tools settings are intended to be used with their replacement sensor. I was describing the Race Tools is an add-on to the Woolich software, which the Woolich software itself is used with the OEM sensor. Two separate things.

• You can reflash and adjust the OEM settings without ever getting the Race Tools kit. OEM settings of what, the quickshifter?
The standard reflash software can adjust everything - fuel maps, ETV maps, ignition maps, rev limiter, fan turn-on temp, autoblip enable, and yes, the quickshifter settings. You don't need the Race Tools unless you want more than the standard stuff. Race Tools is only for pit speed limiter, a more adjustable quickshifter they provide, and the better launch control settings. Other than that, everything else is in the normal software. If you don't use the pit speed limiter, launch control, or need a fancier quickshifter, Race Tools is a waste.

I have Woolich Racing Kit and the Race Tools. After flashing with Woolich, my bike was lurching forward on downshifts. I purchased Race Tools and Race Tools fixed that. But, then my bike started to lurch on upshifts and now my quickshifter does not operate.
Woolich Racing Kit??? What the hell is that? Never heard of the "Racing Kit". The Woolich reflash software lets you change the OEM settings that come with the bike from the factory. The OEM Kawasaki settings are what you enabled through Woolich during the first reflash. They don't provide settings, they let you see what Kawasaki programmed already and let you change those. You didn't play around with them good enough to smooth them out using that.

Adding Race Tools didn't do anything better for you other than change the base mapping they provide for use with their sensor. I don't have Race Tools. I have the standard QS with the base Woolich software. My QS is pretty much butter smooth, as is the autoblip downshifts. That''s after I've played with the OEM settings and even used some settings from another member here who posted his. You can make lots of changes to dial it in even more. You don't need the Race Tools kit to do that.

If your QS isn't working, that has nothing to do with the reflash software or Race Tools. You have a hardware issue. What sensor are you using? The aftermarket strain gauge that comes from Woolich with the Race Tools? Or the OEM sensor that comes stock on the bike? They are 2 different things.
 

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SkyDork, I sent you a PM.

To answer, still stock/OEM Kawasaki sensor. I do not know what the Woolich aftermarket strain gauge is. The Race Tools was a Bin Key that unlocks Race Tools. It almost sounds like I need to go back to my last known working tune and start fresh (removing Race Tools from the equation and eliminate that as a suspect in my issue).

If it is a hardware issue, what do you think I should check?
 

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All, for anyone using Race Tools, I received a response from Woolich reference my quickshifter issues:

"You can't use portions of Race Tools along with the OEM settings. When you enable one (or more) settings in Race Tools, it enables all of them. So if you plan on using Race Tools, you'll need to use all the options - or if you don't want to use Race Tools, you can't use any of them. This is because when we enable Race Tools in the ECU, we are over-writing Kawasaki's code, with our own. So basically it's an all or non solution."

Hope this helps others in the future. Now I know why my quickshifter is not working. It was deselected/unchecked in Race Tools in an effort thinking the KQS ON/ON would take priority. As stated above by Woolich, that is not the case. It's an "all or nothing" software program.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
New gen 5 owner.

In short, my quickshifter (KQS) is not working, at least I think it's not. Unsure if I have an ECU flash at the moment. Feels solid or hard trying to kick up without the clutch lever in any gear. I checked the settings to make sure it's on and it was. It wont even budge in any gear trying to kick up unless I use the clutch lever it shifts fine and smooth all the way to 6th. I did read on a forum tonight that TC (Traction Control) has to be off in order for the quickshifter to work at all. I did not look into this yet since it's late but is that true?

I checked with peers of mine on instagram who have gen 5s and they say my situation is odd and they have no idea.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Sorry if this is asked a lot but I just joined the forum.

- Tim
New gen 5 owner.

In short, my quickshifter (KQS) is not working, at least I think it's not. Unsure if I have an ECU flash at the moment. Feels solid or hard trying to kick up without the clutch lever in any gear. I checked the settings to make sure it's on and it was. It wont even budge in any gear trying to kick up unless I use the clutch lever it shifts fine and smooth all the way to 6th. I did read on a forum tonight that TC (Traction Control) has to be off in order for the quickshifter to work at all. I did not look into this yet since it's late but is that true?

I checked with peers of mine on instagram who have gen 5s and they say my situation is odd and they have no idea.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Sorry if this is asked a lot but I just joined the forum.

- Tim
New gen 5 owner.

In short, my quickshifter (KQS) is not working, at least I think it's not. Unsure if I have an ECU flash at the moment. Feels solid or hard trying to kick up without the clutch lever in any gear. I checked the settings to make sure it's on and it was. It wont even budge in any gear trying to kick up unless I use the clutch lever it shifts fine and smooth all the way to 6th. I did read on a forum tonight that TC (Traction Control) has to be off in order for the quickshifter to work at all. I did not look into this yet since it's late but is that true?

I checked with peers of mine on instagram who have gen 5s and they say my situation is odd and they have no idea.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Sorry if this is asked a lot but I just joined the forum.

- Tim
2/2/21 update!

After a common and bad starter motor going bad, I took it to a kawasaki dealer for recall work on the starter motor, transmission and to look into my STILL non functional KQS (factory quickshifter).

Race tools and/or flashes shouldn’t be able to turn off my quickshifter. Again, I had the settings to on (arrow up) on the dash. I tried using it at all speeds and it still felt locked or solid trying to kick up on the shift lever without the clutch. It would not budge! Maybe its the rear-set positioning? Maybe not. Hopefully the dealer figures it out and it’s something stupid to be fixed. I NEEDED the clutch lever to change gears. No one had a similar issue after asking around.

I’ll keep the forum updated.
YouTube @kashszn
Instagram @scrillakash
 

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Race tools and/or flashes shouldn’t be able to turn off my quickshifter. Again, I had the settings to on (arrow up) on the dash.
That's your problem, as stated before. Just because you think the reflash "shouldn't be able to disable" the QS, doesn't mean it's true. And that's exactly what happens. The reflash software overwrites portions of the ECU software and takes precedence. Any dash settings are ignored. If it's turned off in the Race Tools, then it's off and nothing else will work even if it shows the arrows on the dash. Did you see that post above this one with the quote directly from Woolich? Did you try enabling the QS using Race Tools and using it that way? Dealer won't be able to help you out with the QS if you've used aftermarket software to change the OEM functionality.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Recall on the transmission and starter motor completed free of cost.

KQS still throws no codes but we’re working at it during this winter slowly. The dealer tested the quickshifter on rear stands with no load on the tire in every gear and it worked they said. They tried to get it to throw codes and it didn’t. This test does no good probably but they tried what they can without a dyno.

We are expecting the problem to be ECU related involving woolich race tools like what people are suggesting but I’m only updating the forum to allow people who may come across this post to understand the process I’m going through. It’s now at a performance shop for testing and upgrades since they also have a dyno.

Here’s is the response from Woolich Racing via email regarding my quickshifter “feeling locked” issue below

Woolich - “By default, our software doesn't allow disabling of the factory Kawasaki code to turn on/off the quickshifter. If the ECU is flashed with our software in this instance, the only way to turn the factory QS on or off is through the dash.

But, if the tuner/owner used race tools, which is an extra, optional add on that is our custom programming that over-rides the OEM code, then it is technically possible for them to disable the quickshifter portion of the race tools, which then in theory could disable the quickshifter from working. That is far from an ideal scenario though and not one that I have heard of to date; simply doesn't make sense to purchase that kit and not fully utilize it especially in disabling a function the bike comes standard with from the factory. In cases like that though, we'd expect the other aspects of race tools to work; auto blip downshift, our adjustable launch control and engine warm up and pit limiter. Unless they disabled everything which again, possible, unlikely as it is a paid add-on and purchasing something and not using it makes little sense.
The only way to really tell what would be going on inside the ECU is to actually read it out. When people use our software to tune ECUs, we don't have any way of knowing what they do to the ECU. We only track a limited amount of data for usage and licensing purposes so people can continue to tune their ECU without repeatedly buying a new license each time they flash their ECU. That data shows us basically what part number ECU they tuned, when they first and last flashed it and how many times it was flashed. That's the extent of what we can see on our end.

So the thing to do would be to get the ECU read out to see (1) if it was flashed (2) if it was flashed with our software (3) see if race tools were used and portions of our custom code note enabled or not. I'm not sure if you have our tuning products or not but if you had your own tuning kit you could do this all. The other option is to bring it to a local tuner who uses our products and they can do that for you. The third option would be for us to do it for you by you shipping us your ECU. We obviously wouldn't charge anything for this service but it would answer all three questions. And in any case if there is some kind of goof up (intentional or not) from a previous flash made using our software we could reset the ECU back to a stock version for you and that should bring back the quickshifter provided the stock sensor is operational.”
 

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Recall on the transmission and starter motor completed free of cost.

KQS still throws no codes but we’re working at it during this winter slowly. The dealer tested the quickshifter on rear stands with no load on the tire in every gear and it worked they said. They tried to get it to throw codes and it didn’t. This test does no good probably but they tried what they can without a dyno.

We are expecting the problem to be ECU related involving woolich race tools like what people are suggesting but I’m only updating the forum to allow people who may come across this post to understand the process I’m going through. It’s now at a performance shop for testing and upgrades since they also have a dyno.

Here’s is the response from Woolich Racing via email regarding my quickshifter “feeling locked” issue below

Woolich - “By default, our software doesn't allow disabling of the factory Kawasaki code to turn on/off the quickshifter. If the ECU is flashed with our software in this instance, the only way to turn the factory QS on or off is through the dash.

But, if the tuner/owner used race tools, which is an extra, optional add on that is our custom programming that over-rides the OEM code, then it is technically possible for them to disable the quickshifter portion of the race tools, which then in theory could disable the quickshifter from working. That is far from an ideal scenario though and not one that I have heard of to date; simply doesn't make sense to purchase that kit and not fully utilize it especially in disabling a function the bike comes standard with from the factory. In cases like that though, we'd expect the other aspects of race tools to work; auto blip downshift, our adjustable launch control and engine warm up and pit limiter. Unless they disabled everything which again, possible, unlikely as it is a paid add-on and purchasing something and not using it makes little sense.
The only way to really tell what would be going on inside the ECU is to actually read it out. When people use our software to tune ECUs, we don't have any way of knowing what they do to the ECU. We only track a limited amount of data for usage and licensing purposes so people can continue to tune their ECU without repeatedly buying a new license each time they flash their ECU. That data shows us basically what part number ECU they tuned, when they first and last flashed it and how many times it was flashed. That's the extent of what we can see on our end.

So the thing to do would be to get the ECU read out to see (1) if it was flashed (2) if it was flashed with our software (3) see if race tools were used and portions of our custom code note enabled or not. I'm not sure if you have our tuning products or not but if you had your own tuning kit you could do this all. The other option is to bring it to a local tuner who uses our products and they can do that for you. The third option would be for us to do it for you by you shipping us your ECU. We obviously wouldn't charge anything for this service but it would answer all three questions. And in any case if there is some kind of goof up (intentional or not) from a previous flash made using our software we could reset the ECU back to a stock version for you and that should bring back the quickshifter provided the stock sensor is operational.”

Sounds like this is a solid option:

The third option would be for us to do it for you by you shipping us your ECU. We obviously wouldn't charge anything for this service but it would answer all three questions. And in any case if there is some kind of goof up (intentional or not) from a previous flash made using our software we could reset the ECU back to a stock version for you and that should bring back the quickshifter provided the stock sensor is operational.”
 
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