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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my new track bike comes with Kawasaki manual, V5 document and a Dyno run chart. Not much use when deciding what map, traction control, wheelie control etc settings do what.

Can anyone let me know what MSS are likely to have set their maps to suit, full power in the dry, rainy, db killer installed etc. I literally have no clue where to start.

MSS won’t risk breaking GDPR regulations (which is insane) as none of it is personal data.

The bike has kit ECU, and I believe MSS use Woolwich software, with a kit loom, MoTeC dash with a 5 button switch gear set up with map and tc buttons.

Even very generic info would be helped. Thanks.
 

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There's no need for a Woolich flash with a kit ECU and harness as they are fully programmable. If you have the cable and program on a PC you can download the map that is in the bike and see for yourself what parameters have been put into it. Just make sure the version of the kit program you use matches the ECU you have, ie. version 1 or 2 for gen 5 and version 3 for gen 6.
 

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welcome, to the forum. Nice looking bike, ok so its got MSS logo's etc, but to what extent have MSS been involved with the build, its certainly not a MSS official race bike if its got a V5, if its got a kit ecu then nobody will be using woolwich software its not compatable, the motec dash can be utilised with kit or stock ecu so there is no clue there. The race switch gear doesn't give a clue either. As for MSS saying they wont break GDPR who was it that said that, its a flob off for many possible reasons, anything from the night time cleaner answering the phone to them not having a clue or record of any work they have or may not have done to the bike. Is the dyno print by MSS
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the feedback so far. It’s definitely an MSS build. It has an MSS engine badge with unique identifier on it.
The dyno graph is MSS and I have 1 receipt and job card for cylinder head and gearbox refresh work.
I’ll never understand why anyone wouldn’t keep receipts, records & documentation for a vehicle of any description but there you go.

I’ll be booking it in at MSS for a shakedown anyway so may just swallow the cost of a map analysis and tune up of the ECU to suit my non aggressive riding style.

I think I’m going to need a new muffler as there’s signs of a leak around the sleeve to carbon fibre tip joint, there may need to be a tweak to the map(s) needed anyway.
 

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The can you could repair your self, drill out the rivets, pull-manipulate the tip out just enough to see the end, something along the lines of "fire mate" any extreme temperature silicone inside and on sleeve push back in and rivet up, wipe of the excese and the job is a good one. As for MSS be careful not to get drawn in by all the hype, they are a commercial enterprise, yes they do some good gear but they haven't won anything in a long while the older timers have moved on and the significant title winners with the ZX10 are Frank Wrathall (FW DEVELOPMENTS) and John Mowatt at "Paul Bird Motorsport" are you far from Colchester/
 

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Just to add, the official UK kit supplier for UK is still Leon at Corby Kawasaki, he is as knowledgeable helpful and sincere as any man you will find in the Racing game. Also don't be fouled by Bournemouth Kawasaki there success came from Ray Stringer "Stringer Race Station" and Frank Wrathall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’m in Rushden, 20 minutes from Corby and 35 minutes from MSS new place at Stamford.

First I have to pick the bike up tomorrow morning. A strip down to get the plugs out, drop the oil and change any fluid filters as a minimum, blow out the air filter, check brake pads, and learn how to use the dash.
 

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Ok for reference you can use woolich with a kit ecu, you can buy the bin files separately to flash them, although most wont because normally kit ecu will just use the Kawasaki provided software.

You can either use the kawasaki usb and software if it came with it or you'd need to buy a woolich usb and the map from them to read the ecu file, just depends what the bike came with in terms of software and devices, MSS prob use the woolich stuff because they flash heaps of bikes both street and kit ecu.

I'd say at a guess that the tune will be fine and will be getting the maximum out of the bike, the tc for kit ecu has 5 levels +- so thats all adjustable, re wheelie control thats the rear break really on the gen 4 as no bosch IMU.

this might be a good thread to read through Gen 4: 2011-15 - Race Kit ECU info? re kit ecu and if you want to make your own cable etc
 

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Ok for reference you can use woolich with a kit ecu, you can buy the bin files separately to flash them, although most wont because normally kit ecu will just use the Kawasaki provided software.

You can either use the kawasaki usb and software if it came with it or you'd need to buy a woolich usb and the map from them to read the ecu file, just depends what the bike came with in terms of software and devices, MSS prob use the woolich stuff because they flash heaps of bikes both street and kit ecu.

I'd say at a guess that the tune will be fine and will be getting the maximum out of the bike, the tc for kit ecu has 5 levels +- so thats all adjustable, re wheelie control thats the rear break really on the gen 4 as no bosch IMU.

this might be a good thread to read through Gen 4: 2011-15 - Race Kit ECU info? re kit ecu and if you want to make your own cable etc
My mistake I thought woolich discontinued that option 2011 onwards due to the increased capabilities of the G4+ onwards kit ECU my bad 👎
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So the bike has 3 power maps, & 4 TC levels, including “off”. I’ll be having the maps set up for full power, rain and with a baffle in the exhaust for those sticklers for noise pollution, at race tracks, in the countryside, under airport approach paths like the locals are surprised about noise at a circuit, that’s been there for decades, that they knew about when they moved in, voluntarily.

It has “wheelie” control, in that the t/c works by cutting in as it detects the front wheel spinning slower than the rear, so may not be as useable as newer bikes, but there’s a level of safety.
 

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idk where you guys are looking its literally on the chart

and here on the link to the direct page:

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So these are the MoTeC dash channels that are displayed in pairs on the screen. I know they’re all bespoke and customisable so I’m asking for educated guesses as to what each might refer to.

”TP” is Throttle Position as it changes from 0 to 98 as I roll the throttle.

The owner got a SBK sparkle tech to set it up, but only used the Race Screen, which only shows Gear, Lap info, RPM, Traction Control level, Power level and water temp, so I can’t get much in depth detail from him.

Any guidance as to the rest please:
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Light Green Speedometer

TP - Throttle Position
LA - Varies by +/- 0.1 engine not running but ignition on




Motorcycle Fuel tank Speedometer Automotive lighting Automotive tire

“BHP F” No Idea


Fuel tank Automotive lighting Motorcycle Green Vehicle

“SP” on left stays fixed “SP” on right changes +/- 0.1 without motor running.



Automotive lighting Motorcycle Automotive tire Fuel tank Motor vehicle

“GP” no idea. GPS? Suspension travel? sensors removed from this bike.



Speedometer Automotive lighting Motorcycle Automotive tire Vehicle

“GN” & “DR” - No idea.
 

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idk where you guys are looking its literally on the chart

and here on the link to the direct page:

👀 O yeah........................... there it is 😳
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Is just a Motec dash or does it also have a Motec ECU?
It has Kawasaki kit ECU. Apparently I need a costly kit ECU lead which connects through the dash to get to anything detailed.

Apparently a LAN cable and MoTeC software to get at data. That’s quite straight forward, but don’t know if I’ll get anywhere with understanding the meaning of the 2 letter abbreviations for those monitored parameters.
 

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It has Kawasaki kit ECU. Apparently I need a costly kit ECU lead which connects through the dash to get to anything detailed.

Apparently a LAN cable and MoTeC software to get at data. That’s quite straight forward, but don’t know if I’ll get anywhere with understanding the meaning of the 2 letter abbreviations for those monitored parameters.
As I linked before there is a thread that details how to make your own cheaper cable for the kit ecu.

re motec dash it will be a datalogger so yes youll need the software from motec
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I knocked up a Deutsch MotorSport to Ethernet cable using bare wires and sewing pins and some electrical insulation tape and got to read all the CDL 3 display parameters so now know what they all mean.
I made a working RS232 GPS receiver from a £15 Amazon one with a serial cable breakout connector, jumpering 5V from a USB breakout connector to pin 9 and using u-centre to set it up to 10Hz refresh and 38400 baud rate and the correct communication sentences & protocols.
I’ve fitted an AiM 10 bar oil pressure sealed gauge sensor and a 100 bar brake sensor by AiM is on its way from Demon Tweeks.

If anyone is interested, those initials on the dash are what the CDL abbreviates the entries made as titles during the display set up, so don’t always make sense.
Anyway, the 2 GP ones are Satellite count on left and GPS time on the right.
BPF is front brake pressure.
GN & DR are GPS calculated speed and Ground Speed.
LA - Lambda.
SP & SP are front & rear suspension travel.

As I suspected, they’re not standard but as they were set up by Scott Smart, they kind of are standard at least within the SBK world at least within the UK. He did the bespoke sensor loom and terminated it into the kit ECU loom and used some seriously expensive motorsport military spec connectors, all heat shrunk and glued up for longevity and anti vibration risk mitigation.
Anyway, in true fukit style, I chopped them all off and crimped on automotive weatherproof cheaper ones, as each sensor cable would have cost me £50 to £80 for a swap out male connector on top of the sensor cost. Plus I’d have needed an expensive crimp and tool kit to work on them, and I’m a tight arse.
 
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