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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,has anyone removed the ABS(kibs)unit off a gen4 before?I checked out the wiring diagram and quickly the wires going into and out of the unit!front and rear sensors,earth,power,ecu and a few others!if anyone has any info regarding removing the unit and ways to stop any faults or codes popping up could you please give me your results be it positive or negative!If I have no information about the process Im going to set myself on a mission to overcome my issue with a non functioning piece of unwanted weight(well that's the idea)
Thanks in advance
Peter


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Discussion Starter #4
There has to be a way!I need to see what the abs unit is doing in regards to the feeds going into the unit and then out!I have a feeling the only way will be to remove the unit then pull it apart!unless I had a detailed drawing of the internals


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Discussion Starter #5
This is involved!a non abs model has a resistor on 1 side of the front sensor then to the ecu and the same for the rear!the abs model has their wiring into the abs unit with a wire going to the ecu!its getting interesting


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I removed my abs system but left the module hooked up and just plugged the holes. From what i read is the bike will go into into limp mode. Im now running brembo 19rcs master cylinder and spiegler lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes Snakes I did that a long time ago!I did try Spiegler lines that actually uterlise the abs pump with a RCS19 and Brembo GP4RX calipers and the lever was just like play doh!I ditched the lines to the unit and went from m/c straight to the calipers and my problem was solved!tbh I can't see removing the abs unit happening!


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Yes Snakes I did that a long time ago!I did try Spiegler lines that actually uterlise the abs pump with a RCS19 and Brembo GP4RX calipers and the lever was just like play doh!I ditched the lines to the unit and went from m/c straight to the calipers and my problem was solved!tbh I can't see removing the abs unit happening!


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Thank you! Had that arguement with a dude on our bike group. He was saying you will feel no difference between lines going to the pump vs lines going straight from the mc to the calibers. I never tried replacing the lines with abs still active. So not sure of the feeling. But running the 19rcs and braided lines to the calibers, makes the lever stiff and and very responsive.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well the Dude is a dud if he is saying there is no difference!Im sure many have commented in the past 2-3years about a shitty brake feel on the gen4 abs models in the past!when I had the abs unit on my bike I had so much trouble trying to bleed them and get a nice firm lever full stop!a lot of times you will get trouble with tiny air bubbles in the m/c but Skydork(I think)brought that to my attention!you have to crack that nipple to be sure but with tlc!I even tapped up the front lever overnight but it still was shit!I good way to put it like they were on Valium,once I went direct to the m/c it was a dream to bleed and the end result was I had complete confidence with what I considered great front stoppies!



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This is involved!a non abs model has a resistor on 1 side of the front sensor then to the ecu and the same for the rear!the abs model has their wiring into the abs unit with a wire going to the ecu!its getting interesting
ABS models have wheel sensors commuteted to ECU via ABS module. Ones on non ABS models commutated to ECU directly but using a simple electrical scheme. If you want to cut off ABS unit (it weight about 2 kg by the way) you need replace harness to nonABS one or make wiring yourself.
 

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Well the Dude is a dud if he is saying there is no difference!Im sure many have commented in the past 2-3years about a shitty brake feel on the gen4 abs models in the past!when I had the abs unit on my bike I had so much trouble trying to bleed them and get a nice firm lever full stop!a lot of times you will get trouble with tiny air bubbles in the m/c but Skydork(I think)brought that to my attention!you have to crack that nipple to be sure but with tlc!I even tapped up the front lever overnight but it still was shit!I good way to put it like they were on Valium,once I went direct to the m/c it was a dream to bleed and the end result was I had complete confidence with what I considered great front stoppies!



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Had to do that to my rear. Changed my tire and for the fucking lift of me couldn't get the wheel on because on of the pads didn't want to stay in place. So I pushed the piston in. After that had barely any rear brake so I bled it 3 fucking times and couldn't get the stiff feeling back. Finally someone told me to put a weight on it over night. Did and it fixed it. It took barely any effort to bleed it with abs removed.
 

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This is a topic I've wondered for awhile. I followed the wiring diagram and alot of the wires went to a joint connector. However one thing that was interesting is the KIBS unit taps into the starter relay where the non ABS does not. To really figure it out it take a multimeter and a couple hours. You may be able to match the resistance going to the ecu to trick the ECU into thinking it's still there. It's a lot more complex than the other sensors that get bypassed (servo, 02 sensor etc..)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Snakes that's a classic air in the rear m/c scenario!if there is a next time crack that m/c top banjo then bleed again mate


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Yea it just took forever to get that air out. I bled it a few times and still wouldn't work until I put a weight on the pedal over night. Either way, that was the old setup. ABS removed and braided lines, she bled pretty quick this time around. Took abit to get the fluid going through the brembo mc and both front lines/calibers though. Started questioning if something was wrong lol.
 

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Reviving the thread...
I embarked on a diet for my ZX to keep its performance relevant...
I also want to ditch the ABS in totality.. Im not using TC at all, its permanently switched off. My want is to drop all the plumming and run lines directly fromM/C to calipers..
Am using Woolich, gonna ask questions there

Rolling resistance is also a big focus, would love to know if anybody been giving FastFrank ideas a thought.

I have performance goals for my gen4 and currently running nicely around 185mph on half mile without too hectic launch.
 

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Reviving the thread...
I embarked on a diet for my ZX to keep its performance relevant...
I also want to ditch the ABS in totality.. Im not using TC at all, its permanently switched off. My want is to drop all the plumming and run lines directly fromM/C to calipers..
Am using Woolich, gonna ask questions there

Rolling resistance is also a big focus, would love to know if anybody been giving FastFrank ideas a thought.

I have performance goals for my gen4 and currently running nicely around 185mph on half mile without too hectic launch.
ROGUE RACING ZX-10R ABS Removal
 

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I actually want to remove all the plumbing and as well as the ABS unit, as I attempt to drop more and more weight off the bike.
At the moment looks like I will either explore Woolich or remlve the harnass and search for a nonABS wrecked bike to salvage the harnass.
I was offered a race kit harnass and ecu on the cheap, but the effort on the electronics will be reset.
 

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ABS models have wheel sensors commuteted to ECU via ABS module. Ones on non ABS models commutated to ECU directly but using a simple electrical scheme. If you want to cut off ABS unit (it weight about 2 kg by the way) you need replace harness to nonABS one or make wiring yourself.
Does this then require change of the ECU too?
 
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