Just bought a 2012 ZX10R but I got screwed over

12144 Views 36 Replies 12 Participants Last post by nick3941sd, May 21, 2016

cltguy123

Discussion Starter · May 12, 2016

I bought a used 2012 zx10r, look the look of the bike and the feel of it. Bike seemed to run fine when I was looking it over, no knocking or anything to cause concerns. I got home, installed an M4 slip on pipe and took it down the road, less than 5 miles down the road the bike started knocking and cut off. It cranks back up fine but still knocking, took it to a mechanic who said it sounds like the big end of the connecting rod and that I need an engine rebuild.

So now I am looking for either a replacement engine or options for the rebuild, trying to find the least expensive option. I am trying to make the best out of the situation and hope the person who sold me the bike get's what they deserve.

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cltguy123

Discussion Starter · #2 · May 12, 2016

2012 zx10r - need new engine or rebuild

I just bought a used 2012 zx10r with less than 3k miles on it only to get it home and find out that the engine needs to be rebuilt. Mechanic said it sounds like the big end of one of the connecting rods knocking. So now I am in the market for a replacement engine or looking at options to have the engine rebuilt, just trying to compare cost. Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated.

Crescent1101

· #3 · May 12, 2016

Engines for a GEN4 aren't cheap. Unless you get lucky it would probably be cheaper for a rebuild. Check on the FB groups for an engine.

SkyDork

· #4 · May 12, 2016

Well that sucks donkey balls. I'm sorry to hear that. Not sure how it would spin a bearing and not show up like that during the check out of the bike.

If it truly is a rod bearing, your options are somewhat limited. I just went through this same rebuild myself a few months ago on my '12. A used engine will go anywhere from $3-$4000. As stated, they ain't cheap. Having a shop rebuild it for you will likely be about the same cost. I did it myself for about half that cost because I did all the labor. The crank alone will run you close to $1000 if bought new. Repairing the crank is slightly cheaper, but you'll still need a bunch of other parts (rods, bearings, bolts, gaskets, etc)

First thing to do is drop the oil pan and look for metal fragments. That will confirm the bearing is bad. If it starts and runs, then you might get lucky like I did and not have any head damage like bent valves or anything.

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SkyDork

· #5 · May 12, 2016

I merged the 2 threads on this topic BTW.

If you have any other questions on this topic, just post them here and we'll try to help out.

cltguy123

Discussion Starter · #6 · May 12, 2016

The bike cranks and runs, I am trying to decide between buying an engine and then selling the good parts from my engine to offset the cost or doing the rebuild. I found a guy that is parting out an engine and he is willing to sell the crank and rods for $800 but not sure if I should buy new replacement parts or if used parts would be okay. Anyone around Charlotte, NC that works on bikes that can help me?

cltguy123

Discussion Starter · #7 · May 12, 2016

I am trying to decide between buying an engine and reselling to good parts from my original engine or to rebuild, I found a guy that is parting out an engine and willing to sell the crank and rods for $800 dollars. I am not sure if it would be okay to buy used parts for the rebuild or if I would just need to buy new replacements. Anyone around Charlotte, NC that could help?

Siwa

· #8 · May 13, 2016

Does your country have lemon laws? They regulate that a seller cannot knowingly sell someone a fucked vehicle under the pretense that it is working fine.

scout

· #9 · May 13, 2016 (Edited)

kawa won't sell a new 10r engine without a fight but ebay does have them. Tech guys with superbike experience do rebuild. I know two in Salinas, CA.

wotsitts

· #10 · May 13, 2016

you didnt drop something in to the exhaust when fiting it?? maybe reinstall the oem one and see how it sounds!

SkyDork

· #11 · May 13, 2016

cltguy123 said:
I am trying to decide between buying an engine and reselling to good parts from my original engine or to rebuild, I found a guy that is parting out an engine and willing to sell the crank and rods for $800 dollars. I am not sure if it would be okay to buy used parts for the rebuild or if I would just need to buy new replacements. Anyone around Charlotte, NC that could help?

If you can get a good crank and matching set of rods, that might be a good and quick way to get it going again. You're still going to need quite a few more parts, but that's the bulk of it. The cheapest new crank I could find was like $960, and each of the connecting rods was $130. I only spun 1 rod bearing, but because of that, the other 3 were out of round and had to replace all 4. You're likely in the same boat. Going to need a new oil pump, pressure relief valve, and a bunch of other stuff too if that's what happened. You still need to drop the oil pan and check it before assuming and buying anything though.

If you wanna bring the bike to Tampa, FL, I'll help you rebuild it. :badteeth:

SkyDork

· #12 · May 13, 2016

Siwa said:
Does your country have lemon laws? They regulate that a seller cannot knowingly sell someone a fucked vehicle under the pretense that it is working fine.

Yes, but only applies to new purchases. There's no way to prove the seller of a used bike knew it was bad. It could be argued that the new owner took it home, started it up, and pinned the throttle at the stop until it blew up. Used bikes are sold "as-is" and there's very little recourse without absolute proof.

cltguy123

Discussion Starter · #13 · May 13, 2016

SkyDork said:
If you can get a good crank and matching set of rods, that might be a good and quick way to get it going again. You're still going to need quite a few more parts, but that's the bulk of it. The cheapest new crank I could find was like $960, and each of the connecting rods was $130. I only spun 1 rod bearing, but because of that, the other 3 were out of round and had to replace all 4. You're likely in the same boat. Going to need a new oil pump, pressure relief valve, and a bunch of other stuff too if that's what happened. You still need to drop the oil pan and check it before assuming and buying anything though.

If you wanna bring the bike to Tampa, FL, I'll help you rebuild it. :badteeth:

When I drop the oil pan, what am I looking for? I just bought the bike so I am trying to be as cost effective as possible with the rebuild and any tips would be great.

SkyDork

· #14 · May 13, 2016

This is what you don't want to see in your oil pan.

:headshake:

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SkyDork

· #15 · May 13, 2016

This is what a spun bearing looks like. :crying:

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TechX

· #16 · May 13, 2016

Im curious SD how many miles were on your 2012 when you spun the bearings.

LDH

· #17 · May 13, 2016

SkyDork said:
This is what you don't want to see in your oil pan. :headshake:

But there is gold in them thar valleys!

Reactions: 1

SkyDork

· #18 · May 13, 2016

TechX said:
Im curious SD how many miles were on your 2012 when you spun the bearings.

I had 11,845 miles on the bike at the time. 2,005 on that particular oil and filter change. Mobil 1 4T has been used exclusively since the bike had 1,287 miles on it. Longest oil change interval on the bike was 2,901 miles.

:hello:

SkyDork

· #19 · May 13, 2016

LDH said:
But there is gold in them thar valleys!

I tried to melt it down and use it to pay for some of the repair, but I couldn't get a big enough nugget out of the flakes.

TechX

· #20 · May 13, 2016

SkyDork said:
I had 11,845 miles on the bike at the time. 2,005 on that particular oil and filter change. Mobil 1 4T has been used exclusively since the bike had 1,287 miles on it. Longest oil change interval on the bike was 2,901 miles.

:hello:

Wow thats not a lot of miles. I wonder if there is a design problem with the bottom end on the 2012 or an oiling issue.

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