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Discussion Starter #1
Just swapped the Arrow slip on map (from Power Commander)
with the Dan Kyle Sato slip on map posted on PC site. Everything seems to hit harder with one exception. Idle is slightly more rough with a cam like lope.
Seems to make more power from 3K to 7K than the Arrow map and it
has the same top end rush. I noticed the map to be leaner overall and
the performance may be even better for summer driving (100+ degree).
Anybody else try this (or other good map)??

btw, I have a Yosh RS3 with the E/V mod..

More posts later after a longer ride.
 

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OK newbee question here............
I haven't done much with fuel injection but just what is a map and how do you change the mapping on the bike - like what equipment do you need etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
IdratherBzx10en said:
OK newbee question here............
I haven't done much with fuel injection but just what is a map and how do you change the mapping on the bike - like what equipment do you need etc?
You need a PC (laptop is best because you can change maps with the Power commander installed on the bike) PLUS Dynojet PC software (also downloadable), a USB port and the FREE maps that are on the Power Commander data base/website.

BUT you must buy the Powercommander for your bike...

www.dynojet.com then click on power commander then click maps etc..

btw, on my bike the Dan Kyle Racing map for slip on (Sato) is much better than the arrow slip on map...IMHO...butt dyno says yes too..
 

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no the power commander fucks with the fuel injuction, the tre is a timing retard eliminator and id fucks with the ignition timing
 

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Also PC is supposedly working on a update which will include timing advance for the pc3-usb's. They said to look for it in march or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
rdandy5875 said:
Idling like a yoyo?

You need to richen up the idle numbers a little bit for the 0% throttle position value.
That I will.....I noticed at 1K rpm there is a heavy minus at 0% throttle..

BG
 

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You're gonna have to play with it, but for mine it's at
rpm %throttle
1000rpm = +5
1250=+12
1500=+10
1750=10

my idle is around 1100 for the r1. I ? the kawi, but the idea is you have to give it more gas at idle. Because of the decreased backpressure the gas is getting, well, exhausted, more freely. That's the dip then the ecu sqiuirts in some extra, and keeps happening in about 1 second increments. Annoying and worse cases will stall the motor sometimes when the rpm sweeps back down to idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
She idles now !! I added some fuel at the idle range and gave it back a little
between 10K and 12K at 80-100% throttle values. I think I just had to do adjustments for the colder weather. Maybe in the 110 degree days i will change it again. IT IS A TIRE SHREDDER NOW!!!

Butt dyno says 163 at the ass

Me leavee alonee
 

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IdratherBzx10en said:
OK newbee question here............
I haven't done much with fuel injection but just what is a map and how do you change the mapping on the bike - like what equipment do you need etc?
wow....is this your first bike, first FI bike, or not first bike but not heavy into mods....
 

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I used the kyle map versus the arrow map also. The kyle map rips and stayed in. I also enable the accel pump, but at moderate numbers 20% change 10 revolutions. Anything more than that and you will see a dramatic mpg reduction.
I said in another thread that the PCIII is the best thing I've bought for the zx10r, and I usually hate buying them. The partial throttle openings is 300% improved after adding this thing.
I just bumped my idle up to 1.3k and she is fine, no lumps.
 

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Thread resurrection.....
i think I have this same map (same name anyways) Anyhow I have only ran the bike at idle and I noticed right away that the idle is much lower and it actually already seems rich down low..??
I actually have the Sato slip-on though? I( guess I need to run it to see how well it runs but at idle it runs shit^yso far..
 
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