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Discussion Starter #1
ok so i just completely upgraded my 04 10r with the front zx-14 calipers, galfer gp ss lines, and a zx-14 master. as for the rear, just put some speigler ss lines on it. today was the first time i got to take my baby out for a ride. it felt amazing honestly to finally get back out there. so as i was riding, i ran into a spot where i had to brake abruptly and when i pulled the lever i was braking but it didn't feel like it was biting super hard. so i go to use the rear brake and that shit locks up in miliseconds and my rear is swerving all over the place so i let up and then re apply, same thing happens lol. this happened to me twice today actually. i was able to get out of the situations clearly, but why didn't the front brakes bite. obviously the rear brake is much more resposnive because i don't think i ever locked up the rear wheel twice in one ride. when i bled the front i didn't see any air bubbles but the only thing i can think of is that after i was all done, i noticed my line was touching the rim. with the bleeder nipple closed, i loosened the screw to re-adjust for a split second, did that let air back into the system? do i need to re-bleed or is it possible that the mc i have is no bueno? i can always count on my guru's! TIA
 

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What pads are you running in the front? Are they new or did they come in the calipers you bought? The setup you describe should be close to locking the front with anything more than 2 fingers on the lever. It's just that good of a setup. What you're describing on the front sounds like the pads are poor or not seated to the rotors yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah that's what i've been told and I can see how great the back breaks got from just the ss lines. I kept the stock pads in the calipers because they only had 1100 miles on them. I did noticed all new lines on the rotors, how long should it take to seat in?
 

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I'd say it is a combination of the two, but mostly air is still in there somewhere. I'd rebleed them and see how it feels.
 

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is the lever firm or does it go most of the wayto the handlebar?? if goes pretty far probably air in the lines, if its firm the pads arent bedded in yet. give them maybe 50-100 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have yana shikki levers and I the brake setting lever I use is 5 so it only come with in 2 inches of the handle bar, that didn't seems to bad but I just put it to 1 and with a strong grip I can get it to like a 1/2 inch from the grip so looks like we solved the problem here lol ill re-bleed and report back
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok so I rebled the system and there is definitely air in the system. In fact, there was a considerable amount. It does not want to leave though. I want to drain the entire system And start from scratch. I have a few questions though; first, does it matter the order I bleed the system eg calipers before master or visa versa? Second, can I re use the fluid that comes out of the system?
 

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Dont reuse the brake fluid..

remove your calipers from the forks, open bleed bolt on a caliper and push the piston(s) completely back into the caliper, do it to both calipers and then re-bleed the system.

i suggest you do a lot more research on brake bleeding (reading).. or take your bike to a shop.
 

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Ok so I rebled the system and there is definitely air in the system. In fact, there was a considerable amount. It does not want to leave though. I want to drain the entire system And start from scratch. I have a few questions though; first, does it matter the order I bleed the system eg calipers before master or visa versa? Second, can I re use the fluid that comes out of the system?
Well.. If your doing it the old fashioned way, ie. without a pump or Vac, you really want to start with the MC, if your MC's not fully bled all your doing is pumping more air bubbles down. Don't reuse. I wouldn't bother to drain the whole system either, just bleed the MC very well before you move to the calipers.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Dont reuse the brake fluid..

remove your calipers from the forks, open bleed bolt on a caliper and push the piston(s) completely back into the caliper, do it to both calipers and then re-bleed the system.

i suggest you do a lot more research on brake bleeding (reading).. or take your bike to a shop.
I did push the pistons all the way back and I do apreciate your advice, I have definitely done research on this topic. Im not new to working on bikes honestly, I have bled brakes before and just never ran into issues so now im just over analyzing everything I guess.

Well.. If your doing it the old fashioned way, ie. without a pump or Vac, you really want to start with the MC, if your MC's not fully bled all your doing is pumping more air bubbles down. Don't reuse. I wouldn't bother to drain the whole system either, just bleed the MC very well before you move to the calipers.
Thank you, that's exactly what I wanted to know, reps sent to both of you when I get home and don't have to deal with th internet on the the phone
 

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ok, well i figured u have bled the master (bleeder & banjo bolt) a long with both caliper bleeders and caliper banjo bolts.. if i ever had issues after all that, i would un-bolt the calipers and twist n turn them and tap them about 100x with a wrench to free any air bubbles..

also simply opening up one bleed bolt on a caliper and filling the resi to the very top should be enough weight to force fluid (gravity bleed) out the caliper banjo bolt that is open, which in turns will be a drain-o effect pushing out air an debris.. but if the air is caught in a good spot u wont get that effect to easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well i finally got around to bleeding the brakes again! i want to thank everyone for their help! there is no longer air in my lines and i took it out and proceeded to do the bed in process yesterday. the first few times i hit the brakes it wa scary because i experienced little to no stopping power! after a few more stops from 40 i finally started to feel some real bite! obviously that forced me to take it out on nice road! all my braking RP's (reference points) are useless now hahah i can probably brake like a full second later into each turn! they're that much better!!
DO THIS MOD!
 
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