Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,194 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i had my fork seals replaced twice this year. first time warranty covered them the second time i had to cover them, almost $300 in labor cost. at about 10,000 mile each time. i currently have about 24,000 miles on the bike. the next time myself and a couple of friends are going to change them.

anyway are all fork seals the same or is their a after market set that is better then factory? at the rate of miles i'm riding and doing trackdays and twisties when possible, i'll be changing fork seals again in a year. and if there's something better then factory i'd spend the extra dollars for the longer wear time.

i did the search and found topics on changing fork seals but nothing about which fork seal is better to use.
 

·
MIdlife PIMP
Joined
·
3,459 Posts
I have heard, always use Kawi seals!,.....with the dual springs on the inside!,....lot of aftermarkets have only one spring,.......therefore less wrap tension on the rubbers!
But I am no expert,....but have heard this from several people!,......just trying to help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Did both of your seals go or one at a time? My right side is leaking. Is it hard to change the seals? I am handy until special tools are needed that I do not have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
...I've tried aftermarket seals once; they didn't even fit properly for the 06/07 bike. The Kawi seals are pretty cheap (if you buy them from www.flatoumotorcycles.com) and they always work. I'm on my third set on my primary bike and my second set for the second bike. :) I highly recommend you replace dust seals when you do it.... you end up changing fork seals less. Ask me how I know. :)

Changing them can range from easy to catastrophe, depending entirely on the tools at your disposal. Getting the fluid level right based on height is impossible without the tool to remove the spring/cartridge assembly. I always get lazy and do mine on volume instead of height, and that works out pretty good for me. ;) If you have access to a front tripple tree stand (or a couple ratchet straps and an overhead beam), 1 liter of quality 5wt fork oil, 2 cans of brake/contact cleaner, and an impact gun, the job can go pretty smooth. I seriously recommend the impact, though.... the bottom banjo style bolt can sometimesbe a REAL bastard to get to break loose (sometimes it just rotates the entire cartridge assemblyif you use hand tools.... not fun). I use a modified hex key socket and the impact and it zips out every time without a headache.

I made the tool for the bottom banjo bolt that I could use with my impact gun: I just took a normal hex key socket and milled down the diameter so it would fit through the bottom of the fork leg. If you need a pictoral/breakdown/walkthrough just shoot me a PM and I can write something up for you. :) Once you've done it once (and have the right tools) it's really pretty simple.

G'luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
....you will never be sorry buying OEM seals. Just thought I'd add that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
How long does this normally take? And you take the forks off yes? Think I'll buy the triple tree stand and do this myself. Watched a video on YouTube and seems fairly easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,194 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
thanx for the feedback. my current seals are only 1 month old. but it took my dealership a week to get them shipped in. at that time there was a ride planned, so i started searching for seals elsewhere so my bike would get done quicker. in the process i found that prices were pretty much the same for factory seals or aftermarket seals. so i was just wondering if aftermarket was a better seal or not.

i currently don't have the tools to change my fork seals myself. but a few of my riding buddies do. and at $300 a hit to have my seals done, i'll just buy the tools and what not's and do it myself.

thanx again, i love this site..........:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
yea... the forks need to come off the bike. :)

the $60 front tree stand on ebay right now is actually a really nice item.... I did my last job with that one (so much better than the ratchet strap approach).

I've done a ride or two while waiting for seals. It makes a mess, but that's about the worst of it. A week actually sounds fair; that's about how long most of my parts take to get from flatout. If you need to see a good idea of the hex socket mod, let me know and I'll snap you a picture. I haven't found a hex socket that's small enough off the shelf yet, but they are easy and cheap to grind down & the still work as a normal tool after the fact. It's a shame you aren't a little further south Tempe_ty, I usually do stuff like this for free beer and an extra set of hands. :)

G'luck!
 

·
can we ride yet!?!?!?
Joined
·
3,522 Posts
there a guy here who can do it for 75 bucks. you just get the seals.
now this sounds better than $300 to me. i spent$147 and that included everything. new seals, dust covers, oil and labor.

but i would have done myself if i had the tools.

oem parts here too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,194 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
now this sounds better than $300 to me. i spent$147 and that included everything. new seals, dust covers, oil and labor.

but i would have done myself if i had the tools.

oem parts here too.
that covered the dust cover and what not's, still to pricey for my budget.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
I just bought the fork seal compresser tool from traxxion...I paid like 130 bucks for it.seals like 20 and the fork oil 15 and changed it myself very easy to do.so next time if i have a sealk go out it will be under like 30 bucks to fix it..i would really recomend buying the kit....I also used the manual that garth posted here to do the work but when you order the kit it comes with a detailed manual to do it...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,194 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I just bought the fork seal compresser tool from traxxion...I paid like 130 bucks for it.seals like 20 and the fork oil 15 and changed it myself very easy to do.so next time if i have a sealk go out it will be under like 30 bucks to fix it..i would really recomend buying the kit....I also used the manual that garth posted here to do the work but when you order the kit it comes with a detailed manual to do it...
that's what i'm talking about. money is hella tight right now, but definitely this year............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
OK, at the risk of sounding like a know it all, once again I will say the only after market fork seal that work better and longer than OEM are All Balls fork seals, they were designed for dirt bikes first but now listed for street bikes, check out there web site, www.GOallballs.com { Patented fork seal features a balenced 3 lip design { OEM have 2 lips }that evenly distributes the pressure reducing operating temperature, wear and friction, costom Elastomer fork seal have been tested to outlast OEM fork seals, extends typical seal life by 3 to 5 times, stiction { friction } messures 1/3 to 1/2 less then OEM seal for smoother fork action,}{ they also have two springs } I have replaced over 300 sets of fork seals on dirt bikes and street bikes, tryed all the major brand incuding OEM and All Balls seals are simply the best seals I have ever used, I have a zx12r and a zx10r, like to wheelie them both as much as posible, some times I come down hard, stock seals will fail after just a few hard landings, the All Balls seal have lasted me a full season, its a no brainer, the seals were developed for dirt bikes, your not going to find forks on anything else that take a beating like that and they last 3 to 5 times longer on dirt bikes. look at the web site and make up your own mind, how often do you like to change fork seals?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
And you don't need a spring compressor tool to change fork seals, just pull the bottom allen bolt and the forks fall apart, change out the seal and and dust seal and pull the cap and refill. only reason for the spring compressor is to repace springs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
The only special tool you need is a good seal driver, you can make one if you don't want to buy one, I live north of Spokane wash. 45 miles if anyone needs them replaced I will do them cheep, call me at 509-447-2628
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
... sounds like nice seals, but I've never heard of 'em. :)

You don't need a seal driver for the USD forks if you're using OEM seals; they can be pushed in with pretty minimal finger pressure, or a flat punch/driver (or 1/4 drive extension) if you don't have the finger strength to seat them. You are correct about not needing the spring compressor to disassemble the tubes. However, if you want to set oil level BY HEIGHT correctly, you need that particular tool. I do it by volume and have pretty good results, but it's not as precise that way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I live outside of Atlanta and I just got a quote today of between $300-$400 to change the seals on my 1st Gen. 10. Anyone know of a good shop around here or do you guys that do it yourself have any pics or more how-to ideas. I would really like to do this myself.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
609 Posts
I just got a quote today of between $300-$400 to change the seals
Thanks!
Sounds way too high for me, but I do my own. At that price you should do a revalve. A little more and you could have a custom setup with Penske internals. I'd do it for $100+parts and kinda feel like I was cheating you.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top