Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Oh, how I hope someone in this forum can help point me in the right direction...

My 05 ZX-10R has developed a nagging problem. After about 15-30 minutes of riding, the FI light will come on and the bike will start surging. By that I mean the engine will loose power and regain it instantaneously while I am crusing on the highway. As power comes back, there will be large exhaust backfire announcing its arrival and the bike will launch forward again. If I happen to be in slow stop-and-go traffic and the light comes on. The engine will just die immediately. Any attempt to restart it will not work for at least 15 minutes and the FI light will keep flashing while cranking the engine. About 15 minutes later, it will just start as if nothing ever happened. I was on the bike for 130 miles yesterday and have had to deal with this issue at least 6 times.

I looked around and searched the threads for similar experience but could not find any. The bike has also been to Golden Gate Cycles in SF. I was told there was no apparent problem and left there with $100 less in my pocket a couple of days after I dropped the bike off. The fact that it is an intermittent issue makes it hard to troubleshoot I guess.

Any help would be really and truly appreciated.

Thanks.
~Noah
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The only mod I have is a straight-through exhaust (Cat and baffles removed). I made the mod about 3 months after I bought the bike back in 05. I have since put 19,000 miles on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
The only mod I have is a straight-through exhaust (Cat and baffles removed). I made the mod about 3 months after I bought the bike back in 05. I have since put 19,000 miles on it.
Ok..does it happen more when it's colder or hotter ambient temps...was it serviced @15K and why don't you run a PCIII with a straight through exhaust ? Does it pop on decel ? Surging is generally a lean conditrion...
 

·
Rent this space
Joined
·
6,590 Posts
The only thing a bike does if you leave it for a while, is cool down.

I would say you have a temp related problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Check your Cam Position Sensor wires. Have you had plugs done or valve adjustment done recently? If so alot of the time the wires come undone. The plug you are looking for is on the left smog valve plate. Its attached by a clip. Those have a habit if yanking to hard to come undone. That will cause your bike to do the symptoms you are expressing. The prongs inside the connector might be a tad bit loose. I'd start there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ok..does it happen more when it's colder or hotter ambient temps...was it serviced @15K and why don't you run a PCIII with a straight through exhaust ? Does it pop on decel ? Surging is generally a lean conditrion...

Well. To answer your questions in order. It happens in hotter and colder temps. The 15K service was done at the dealership. I haven't yet looked into using a PCIII since it had been running just fine and I have been happy with the performance. It does pop on deceleration. As for surging. I now realize I should not have used the term "surge" because that is something experienced while the engine still runs. My engine just quits running completely; basically looses power completely and falls on its face momentarily. Then as the rear wheel is still spinning and the ignition stays on, catches spark again, a loud exhaust backfire is heard and lo and behold, the engine is running again. Now this happens if I am in higher gears and compression drag is minimal. If I happen to be in the city and coming to a stop at a stop light and it quits running, I don't have enough forward momentum and am in low gears for it run without power for a while. At that point, I just stop on the side of the road and try restarting it every minute or so. Every time I try during that period, the FI light blinks and the engine does not start. About 15 minutes later, it will just start and I will be able to ride it for a while longer until it does it again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Or maybe the fuel tank vent is blocked.
Fuel tank vent??? Hmmm. I know the bike is equipped with a fuel evap system. Is there some sort of a mechanism or sensor where the ECU would stop spark or fuel delivery if a certain condition is met in regards to the system, say a saturated charcoal canister or something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Check your Cam Position Sensor wires. Have you had plugs done or valve adjustment done recently? If so alot of the time the wires come undone. The plug you are looking for is on the left smog valve plate. Its attached by a clip. Those have a habit if yanking to hard to come undone. That will cause your bike to do the symptoms you are expressing. The prongs inside the connector might be a tad bit loose. I'd start there.
Yes. The 15K service was done at the dealership. I know for sure the valves were checked and readjusted where necessary. I am definitely going to check for the wires that may have become undone. I am not sure if I understand the exact location of the smog valve plate you describe. I have the manual and can check it if you know where in the manual it is shown. A picture would be even better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
It is on top of the valve cover. Its part of the PAIR system. There are two of them that the outlets face each other into a center solenoid. You must remove the tank and airbox to get to it. When sitting on the bike the one on the left has a connector attached to it. That is the plug for the CAM position sensor. It runs along the front of the valve cover to the right side and then goes down. The cam sensor itself is in the front of the head right above and in between the 3rd and 4th header tubes. I took two pics from the left side. I am pointing at the plug in the second pic.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Also when you check do not concentrate on the plug being connected or not look at the prongs inside the connectors. Unplug the connector and pull on the wires. If they jiggle or move at all or even pull out there is your culprit. If that's the case I will tell you how to fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
It is on top of the valve cover. Its part of the PAIR system. There are two of them that the outlets face each other into a center solenoid. You must remove the tank and airbox to get to it. When sitting on the bike the one on the left has a connector attached to it. That is the plug for the CAM position sensor. It runs along the front of the valve cover to the right side and then goes down. The cam sensor itself is in the front of the head right above and in between the 3rd and 4th header tubes. I took two pics from the left side. I am pointing at the plug in the second pic.
I spent about 30 minutes to check the CAM position sensor connector as you suggested. I was able to bend the the bracket which holds the two rubber tubes in front of the connector slightly and get to it from the side without having to remove the tank and the airbox. I pulled the connector apart and lo and behold, I found one of the prongs on the male side of the connector slid all the way back. I pulled it back out with the long nose pliers and pushed the female side back in while applying finger pressure to the wires from the back side of the male connector, ensuring that it does not slide back. I just got back from a 70 mile ride and did not experience the symptoms once. I will take the bike to work tomorrow to further verify the issue has been eliminated. A million thanks to you for sharing your knowledge and experience and ending my month-long headache. Also thanks to everyone who pitched in their knowledge in an effort to help.

While I was in there and scrutinizing the work that had been done at the 15K mile service, I realized the crankcase had been filled with about half quart extra oil and found the tank overfill evacuation line disconnected from the bottom of the tank. I always do all of the maintenance on my bike myself. Not having all the necesary tools and hardware (various size shims), I decided to let the work done at the dealership because of the recommended valve clearence check and adjustment at 15K. You can be sure I'll acquire the necessary tools and hardware and do my own valve adjustment if I still have the bike when it is due again at 30K.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
So send some major rep my way!!!!!!! J/K hope that solved your issue. I've heard many a time that happening. Those connectors do not hold very well and some idiot mechanic pulling on the wires is all it takes for it to come loose. There is a proper way to remove the plug but I guess being flat rate most mechanics bypass that. Also I'm in Bay Point so if you want any work done let me know. I'm pretty reasonable price wise or if you want to learn how to do it and want someone to kind of guide you shoot me a PM and bring a 12 pack and I will do it with you. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
No trace of it whatsoever... :) You're a life saver! I can finally just concentrate on the riding instead of trying to keep the engine running while I am out and about. Didn't realize you're so close to me. I'd definitely like to hook up for whatever reason. My brother lives in Pittsburg with his family and I often go to visit. I'll PM and come for a visit with the 12 pack in-hand on of these days. Also let me know if you find yourself in my neck of the woods. Cheers!
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top