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Installing rear lowering links.

If you've ever launched your ZX10r hard you know that it could benefit from being a little lower to the ground to keep the COG down and be able to leave harder. This modification will allow you to lower the rear of your bike for more aggressive drag style launches.



Summary of install:
We will be starting with the bike on a rear swingarm stand. The bike MUST be on a rear stand to complete this mod in the manner described. The factory links will be removed and replaced with the Muzzy lowering links.

Tools for install:
you will need a floor jack(small ones work great) or a small jack out of a car or truck will work as well (everyone has one of those right?)
A 4mm allen for removing the fasteners on the lower fairings.
A 14mm AND a 17mm socket and wrench for removing the bolts and nut that hold on the links

1.) With the bike on the rear stand remove the six fasteners from the lowers and remove the lower fairings. You can split them or you can leave them together either way will work.



2.) With the lowers removed you can get a good look at what we are about to do. the next thing you'll want to do is break loose the nuts holding on the stock links and remove them. Don't try to remove the bolts or the links at this point though.



3.) Now the floor jack comes into play. I jacked on the bottom of the shock pivot.



Watching the rear end come up as you near the top of the stroke of the rear shock you will want to push on the end of the bottom bolt until you can start to slide it out of the shock pivot. THIS IS WHERE YOU WANT TO PAY CLOSE ATTENTION IF YOU JACK THE BIKE OFF OF THE REAR STAND IT WILL FALL!!

4.) Once you have reached the point where there isn't any load on the rear shock you can remove the bolts and the links. If they don't come out fairly easily there is still a load on the shock, lower the jack a little and try again. (always lower and try again don't raise because you may be jacked a little too high already and jacking further will only lead to a tip over.
TIP: when you are removing the top bolt you will find that it will not come all the way out it hits the back of the exhaust. To remove this bolt you will need to slide the spacer that is inside of the linkage pivot towards the shifter side of the bike. That will allow you the clearance nessasary to remove the top bolt.



5.) Now you are ready to install the new links. start with the top bolt. I choose to make my adjustment point at the top because I think I can remove that bolt without removing the lower fairing from this point forward. (we'll see on that though) **read update below**



After the top bolt is installed, install the nut but don't tighten it yet.. now you can slowly lower the jack while lining up the bottom holes with the swingarm pivot.Once the bottom hole is lined up you can install the bottom bolt and nut and remove the jack.



6.) After the jack is removed the bike is sitting solid on the rear stand again and you can tighten up the nuts on the links. if you've done it correctly your bike should be sitting much lower then when you started.

7.) now you can reinstall the lower fairing and remove the bike from the stand. NOTE!!!! if you have a stock kickstand you will not be able to utilize it anymore. Two ways around that. look for a low spot on the ground to place the kickstand in or you can pull one or both of your wheels up onto a 2x4 or similar.

This modification is actually a pretty easy one just take your time and make sure that you have the swingarm spools sitting in the the swingarm stand at all times.
Now go get some good times at the track or welcome back to earth if you are lowering your bike to be able to touch better. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
**UPDATE**
after I installed the lowering links something dawned on me...I will still need the lower removed to be able to get the jack on the shock pivot. With that In mind I removed the links and reinstalled them with the adjusting holes in the bottom position. Since I'll have to remove the lower to jack the bike I flipped the links around so that I could more easily adjust them between holes..
 
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