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Hi all,

This will be sort of long, but please help....

My local dealer has the new '05's in stock now, and I'm about a pen stroke away from selling my Gixxer 1K3, and buying the new '05 ZX-10R. But first I have a ? that maybe someone here can answer...

Based on past experience with my 1K3, and in general, knowing that most of us CANNOT and DO NOT ever drive any of these newer 1K bikes at the top end of the rpm range, I was wondering if anyone has done the following:

Keep the stock header, but cut it off just ahead of the "Valve", and either weld or clamp on a Ti mid pipe that would mate up with an Arata, Sato, or Yosh Ti slip-on can....?????? (BTW, I will add a PCIII USB also)

This seems like a logical and reasonable performance gain, I would guess at about 4-5 hp in the mid-range, and certainly more affordable than many other options...

Plus, it will give me more $$$ to spend elsewhere....like a TRE, a 16t CS, a Speedo Healer, Galfer SS lines, ANOTHER set of Gilles rearsets, Kleen block-offs, etc...

Any thoughts and experiences will be greatly appreciated, as this deal is pending your responses...I really do like my 1K3, but I DO NOT like it's tranny ratios...

Thanks in advance....

JJ
 

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jjgi550 :welcome:

Keep the stock header, but cut it off just ahead of the "Valve", and either weld or clamp on a Ti mid pipe that would mate up with an Arata, Sato, or Yosh Ti slip-on can....?????? (BTW, I will add a PCIII USB also)
I would say no one has gone to the great lengths you've described, i.e. 'cut it off ahead of the valve' and replaced a section with XYZ midpipe/collector. However a few have disabled the valve (or removed it completely) to the extent its 'fully open' all the time and purchased their fav slip-on to complete the system and tuned their PC's accordingly.

BD
 

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Sounds like more trouble than it's worth, besides, aftermarket headers have a larger diameter and are designed to produce a little more power than stock. Remember, your time is worth money. If you have a job work some overtime or get a paper route and get the full exhaust.
 

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Not that I can tell. I told a guy about disabling his exhaust valve at sacramento raceway. He said he noticed more mid range than with it hooked up.
 

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MIA Post Whore
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My butt dyno (that has been proven to be very off) felt like the rpm's ramp up quicker w/o the valve. ...ever watch how slowly the servo moves?
 

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Has there been a thread about removing the exhaust valve? Do you simply disconnect the valve cables, or can you remove the entire unit, including the box underneath the seat?
 

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Ah, to disconnect or not to diconnect....that is the question.......again. This week i have it disconnected. Next week maybe i'll reconnect it. I'm still losing sleep over this one. Now where's my tequila..........there it is!!
 

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It has been discussed before. I don't recall that there was anything dyno-provable to be gained by blocking the valve open. The motor has to remain in place and electrically connected to keep the ECU happy. There is some question as to whether that valve is there for midrange (which is what they publicly claim) or some combination of noise/emissions (which is what I suspect in reality) or maybe a bit of both. If it's there for midrange, then simply by power of reasoning, removing it would result in a loss of midrange power, wouldn't it?

Taking out the *entire* exhaust valve but keeping the stock headers will require a new 2-into-1 section to be installed, because on this bike the valve is integrated into the last 2-into-1 junction. And that's a titanium piece you are working with.

If you are going to go to this much trouble, it would seem better to just change out the entire exhaust system for one that doesn't have that valve ...
 

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+1

Dont bother with that much trouble, just disable it and put a slip-on.
Now for trading in the gsxr for the 10, you'll LOVE the 10 however from saying you dont reach high rpms, excuse me if I took this wrong but it sounds like you dont push yours bikes, if thats the case then a faster bike might not be worth the money if your not gonna use the power.
 

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Cut out the valve, JB weld (or simular) the hole where it pivioted, use a dremil to get a nice smooth finish. What's left is the equivilent of a full system. Minus a slight difference in collector/mid pipe ID (depending on brand). Collector configuration also changes with brand of pipe which can change the powerband characteristics. (4/2/1 vs 4/1). Most aftermarket pipes(that i have seen) have at least a six inch section were the 4 header pipes become 2 before going to one. In the stock pipe this happens in a very short space right b4 the valve. ....hmmmmmm, this has nothing to do with the original question........
 

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nolaZX10 said:
+1
excuse me if I took this wrong but it sounds like you dont push yours bikes, if thats the case then a faster bike might not be worth the money if your not gonna use the power.
I might be wrong, but I think he just meant that none of us ride around with the rpm's between 9 grand and redline like a racer does.
 

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phastone said:
I might be wrong, but I think he just meant that none of us ride around with the rpm's between 9 grand and redline like a racer does.
Haha, thats pretty funny thats when the fun stuff starts to happen. I know allot of us run our bikes that high, quite frequently at that too.
 
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