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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is all based on values that were actually measured so the software outputs are very accurate (rake, trail, swingarm angle, antisquat %, etc). I'd like to avoid being specific, but I'm using the same software that the majority of professional teams use. Generally speaking, there is a range of values for the parameters I mentioned that work well in most cases, and most race setups fall within that range (although not always). Based on the info and feedback you provide, I will play with the numbers in your current setup to get them within the correct range and hopefully on the right side of that range to make you comfortable on the bike. I'm not a professional suspension engineer, but I am an engineer. I've also raced the ZX10 at the expert level for two seasons, trying a LOT of setups. I know what these changes feel like! I've also talked to quite a few MotoA guys and fast club racers about their ZX10 setups and have taken all that into account while getting my bike dialed.

How this will work is you'll send me your current setup, I'll compare with stock and offer you a setup to get the bike doing what it should be doing. Stock will be in column 1, your setup in column 2, and the hot setup will be in column 3 (based on your preferences of course). You send me $50 through Paypal or Venmo and I'll send you back a screenshot similar to what's attached giving you all the calculated values.

DM me the info below. For some of you a lot of these are going to be in the stock position, but if anything has been modified be specific. If you don't know some of them we may be able to approximate but I'll need whatever details you have.

1. Fork setting (outer fork tube height over top triple) and whether you're at stock length or your cartridges have extended the forks.
2. Shock length + clevis spacer thickness (or total shock + spacer length)
3. Swingarm length (measurement between the center of the swingarm pivot and the center of the rear axle), or define where rear axle sits in the adjustment slot and I can get close.
4. Gearing you're running
5. Tires you're running
6. Any modifications (rake cups, triple clamps, swingarm pivot position, etc.)
7. What are you struggling with? Hard turn in? Rear end bucking or lacking grip on exits? Does it not want to finish the corner, do you need to keep it on it's line mid corner using the bars? What have you noticed and what are you trying to do with your setup?
8. What level are you riding at, and what are your tracks like? Bumpy, tight and technical, etc?

Thanks,
Alex


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This method will get you a baseline, you'll still need to test and see what works for your style, on your particular bike, and at your tracks. The "paradigm shift" you should expect really depends on how off your setup currently is so I can't tell you what that will be without knowing where you are. Sag is not used much at the race track anymore. With topout springs on shocks these days rear sag is just not that useful. One way of doing it would be to set sag in the front to make sure your spring rate is appropriate for you, then match the rear spring rate to the front rate to achieve balance. For example, 10.0 fork springs on a Gen 5 match well with a 100 or 105 shock spring. If you have appropriate rates, preload on a TTX shock with FKR's in the front, for example, should be in the neighborhood of 13mm and 7mm, respectively. Yes this affects geometry but there are too many variables to tell you what to run as results are highly subjective.

I do not have a Gen 3 file, but what we can do is use the Gen 4 as a basis and modify it based on the increased rake and shorter swingarm of the Gen 3 (we'll have to look into the chassis changes in detail to be as accurate as possible). This will not be exact but should get you some idea. If you're still interested I can do it for a lower cost, let me know. I have tire data for the Michelin Cup, Slick, and Rain, as well as the Pirelli and Dunlop race tires. If you have the circumference or diameter of any other tire I can run it with those numbers. If I get you a setup and later on you make a change, I can rerun it for you and as long as it doesn't take too much time I should be able to do it at a lower cost to you. We'd have to work that out.
 
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