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Pretty simple to check throttle cable, just look at the butterflies wile you open and close the throttle.
The throttle bodies should be closed all the way when the throttle is released.
If not you will need to go back and inspect routing and adjustments.
Stock grips? make sure the grip is not interfering with the throttle tube closing all the way.
No need to mess with anything else until you have done this as you will only complicate the problem.
I removed the secondary throttle body plates and the RPM did not change at all.
How many hoses did you reconnect to your air box?
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
i reconnected 2 hoses. One large and one small. while i had the airbox off messed with the throttle and watched what happened. it looks like they are closed all the way, but like i said i can roll the throttle forward and the butterflies move prolly like 1/32 or even less closed. i wouldnt think that would be that large of a deal.
 
Did you mess with any of the throttle position switches?
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
ummmmmmm....throttle position switches????:dontknow:
got me curious now. where are they located? guess i am going to have to go look at the fiche.
 
i reconnected 2 hoses. One large and one small. while i had the airbox off messed with the throttle and watched what happened. it looks like they are closed all the way, but like i said i can roll the throttle forward and the butterflies move prolly like 1/32 or even less closed. i wouldnt think that would be that large of a deal.
there are three hoses total, one is an airbox drain.
You should be able to loosen your throttle cables to the point the throttle bodies close all the way.
None of this rolling it closed.
Then adjust the two cables even to the point you have full throttle operation open and closed.
 
You would know if you messed with these.They operate off of voltage.They allow the ecu to know the throttle posistion from idle to full throtlle allowing proper fuel injector operation.There are two of them,main and sub.They can be adjusted.If you did not touch these then dont you can make the idle worse.
 
I thought so :smile:

Again, back to the point.
removing the secondary throttle plates does not change idle speed. (ok +/- 50 rpm)

I have a feeling the problem of high idle is from the adjustment and or cable routing of the throttle cable.

Do you have another stock ZX-10 to look at and compare?

I had to adjust my throttle cable with 0 miles on the bike, the person who set up the bike had the routing incorrect around the ram air intake.

always a good idea before riding a new bike to turn the handlebars from stop to stop and make sure the throttle and or lights are not affected.

Most of the time Jap bikes don't need to reset the TPS.

btw, silly question but.. is there anything inside the throttle bodies keeping the plates from closing all the way?
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
there are three hoses total, one is an airbox drain.
You should be able to loosen your throttle cables to the point the throttle bodies close all the way.
None of this rolling it closed.
Then adjust the two cables even to the point you have full throttle operation open and closed.
this might be the key here.....reconnected the larger of two hoses closest to battery which the other is the air box drain. i now have to look and see where the third is.

ok parts fihe only shows the breather hose. the larger hose that is closest to battery in the center of air box
 
this might be the key here.....reconnected the larger of two hoses closest to battery which the other is the air box drain. i now have to look and see where the third is.
The one in front of the air box goes to the valve cover unless you installed block off plates. (really no need as you can just block off the line and do the same thing).
the clear one lower left is a drain and i think you already found your large hose off the rear lower middle correct?

Now take care of the throttle cables..:wink:
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
The one in front of the air box goes to the valve cover unless you installed block off plates. (really no need as you can just block off the line and do the same thing).
the clear one lower left is a drain and i think you already found your large hose off the rear lower middle correct?

Now take care of the throttle cables..:wink:
alright wel i will be wrenching tomorrow. Getting a new rear sprocket. will check the cables again and re-connect the hose in front of the air box.

When we are talking about cables, we are talking about from throttle grip to throttle boddies right?
 
alright wel i will be wrenching tomorrow. Getting a new rear sprocket. will check the cables again and re-connect the hose in front of the air box.

When we are talking about cables, we are talking about from throttle grip to throttle boddies right?
Yes, correct.
and btw i am sorry but i was thinking all this time you were working on a gen 3.
However i still think your problem of high idle is throttle cables one way or the other.
You can start the bike with the cables removed for that matter and the throttle body plates should be closed all the way.

remember to put everything you adjusted back to the stock position before you started.

Good luck, you can do it..:heyyou:
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
i dont think i understand your statement.......what is the reason. does it have to do with the pilot air screw? i am a little slow sometimes, sorry for needing elaboratioin
Doesn't hurt to ask.
All i am saying is "if" changes were made with the idle adjustment screw and or the pilot air screw ( i take it this is the screw on the side of the throttle body) put them back to the stock settings and address the throttle cables then start the bike and see what the idle rpms are at.

if you go messing with several variables at once your not going to accomplish anything.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Doesn't hurt to ask.
All i am saying is "if" changes were made with the idle adjustment screw and or the pilot air screw ( i take it this is the screw on the side of the throttle body) put them back to the stock settings and address the throttle cables then start the bike and see what the idle rpms are at.

if you go messing with several variables at once your not going to accomplish anything.
no i didnt mess with any adjusting screw, just the idle adjusting cable in the fashion i previously stated. tomorrow i am going to take it back apart and check some stuff out.
 
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