Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I just wanted to know if any one has heard of this being a problem with Gen 2s.

I've already taken it to the shop and they fixed it one time but then it started up again.

I've bled the brakes multiple times at each valve. Each time I bleed them I regain my brakes for the next 2 or three rides and then they slowly lose grip until there is no pressure at all. I don't see any brake fluid leaking anywhere along the lines, at the master cylinder, or the calipers.

I'm about to buy some steel braided brake lines and replace the ones currently on it. Maybe one of the hoses is allowing air in somewhere. I Just wanted to know if anybody has heard of anything that might make this is separate problem.

Thank you
JD
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Hey guys. I just wanted to know if any one has heard of this being a problem with Gen 2s.

I've already taken it to the shop and they fixed it one time but then it started up again.

I've bled the brakes multiple times at each valve. Each time I bleed them I regain my brakes for the next 2 or three rides and then they slowly lose grip until there is no pressure at all. I don't see any brake fluid leaking anywhere along the lines, at the master cylinder, or the calipers.

I'm about to buy some steel braided brake lines and replace the ones currently on it. Maybe one of the hoses is allowing air in somewhere. I Just wanted to know if anybody has heard of anything that might make this is separate problem.

Thank you
JD
Do you still have the original calipers? They're notoriously hard to bleed properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
How is the reservoir level? Are you having to add fluid? If you can't spot a leak I agree with Spray that it could be an issue in the caliper where your pistons are seizing up. They do make master cylinder and caliper rebuild kits if you want to save some money and the steel braided lines are always a good idea. How are you bleeding your brakes? IE in what order? Are you starting with the master cylinder or calipers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey guys, thank you for replying.

Yeah there calipers on the bike are the originals. I changed the brake pads recently and the Pistons do have free movement so I don't think seizing is a problem.

As far as the order that I bleed them, I start with the caliper on the clutch hand side first. I Bleed It Out until there is no air, then I move over to the break and side, repeat the process. And then go to the valve on the master cylinder.

One thing I did notice is that the brake reservoir isn't stock but I haven't noticed any issues with it. However the line from the master cylinder to the brake fluid reservoir had to be replaced cuz it was sweating brake fluid. That was what they did at the shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh I forgot to answer one other question. No I don't have to keep adding brake fluid to the reservoir. Except when I bleed it LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Ok your sequence for bleeding is right. It definitely sounds like the piston seal is bad in your MC. I would look at a rebuild or just replace your MC. Also, if you are still using the stock rubber lines they can become soft and/or maybe you also have some water mixed in with the brake fluid. Easiest thing I would try first is to completely flush your fluid and start there. Do you use a syringe or a vacuum bleed kit to bleed? The vacuum kits work great and you can find them at most auto part stores for 20-30 bucks. Worth every penny when compared to manual bleeding!

If you want to completely rebuild your brakes, a new MC, steel braided lines, and maybe some pads is definitely a good investment. On a budget start with a rebuild kit and try replacing all the fluid if you haven't done so already.

Good luck and keep us posted!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you. I will try the rebuild kit and see if that works first. I still want to replace my stock lines with steel braided ones but I have to prioritize my spending at the moment to fix the problem first, then get the things I want after.

I did fully flush the lines and didn't see any water in the lines (thankfully). I will definitely keep you posted.

Any tips on where I can get a good rebuild kit?

Thank you everyone for your help.


JD
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,737 Posts
Well basically everyone already nailed it. Old ass bikes have old ass rubber gaskets and seals that need to be replaced over time, so a simple rebuild kit is always a good place to start.

But, Gen 1 brakes need a few things, a new master cylinder, braided lines, and upgraded pads, and with that they'll run any track day just fine. Once you step up to race pace riding you'll wanna do calipers too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,872 Posts
Well basically everyone already nailed it. Old ass bikes have old ass rubber gaskets and seals that need to be replaced over time, so a simple rebuild kit is always a good place to start.

But, Gen 1 brakes need a few things, a new master cylinder, braided lines, and upgraded pads, and with that they'll run any track day just fine. Once you step up to race pace riding you'll wanna do calipers too.
Hey do you know what yr model mc bolt up to gen1? Also would i have change brake lever or lines to do the swap?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,737 Posts
You just to replace it with any proper MC, the Yamaha R6/R1 from '06-'15 are all good options, they're brembo 16x18 if i recall. The standard Gen1 zx10r doesnt even have a bleeder nipple on the mc so its always a bitch to get the last little air bubbles out. i always put brembo 19x18 mc's on my bikes. braided lines help. better pads help. you dont have to do lines, but you'll want to. the MC you buy should come with a lever if you buy it used, every one i've ever bought has had the lever included so just ask whoever you buy it from.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LDH

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Riley, I would start with rebuilding your master cylinder.

That rebuild kit was 17.00, and figure 10 dollars for a set of small snap ring pliers, if you dont have those, already. OK, maybe 5.00 for the pliers if you have a Harbour freight around. Yes, junk tools, but good enough to get you through a master cylinder rebuild.

https://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ring-pliers-with-interchangeable-heads-63845.html

Its the easiest component to rebuild, so start there. I dont know if I would rebuild 2007 calipers. The rebuild kits probably costs more that buying a set of used 2015 calipers, on ebay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Yea I'm going to get the zx6 calipers and anyway and go from there, will reply if I figure out which part was causing this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
>> R1:ZX10R brake switch connectivity <<

You just to replace it with any proper MC, the Yamaha R6/R1 from '06-'15 are all good options.
NAKEDINSEATTLE <> Thank you for your input, but do you know if the brake light switch on the R1's Brembo MC is plug & play with our ZX's?
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top