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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all,

I just bought my first 10r. I upgraded from my zx-6r, and I have run into a few problems along the way.

I bought the bike w/o having it checked out by a Kawi dealership. If I had before I never would have bought this one. It is a 2004 with 27,000 miles on it. It has the FI light on, and it needs a few parts. So far the total at the dealership is almost a grand. I had them order in new rear cowling, I got the integrated rear light, and license plate. THe previous owner did a rear eliminator kit, but did not put on license plate holder, and actually zip tied it horizontally under the fender. As well as no rear turn signals. The rear cowling was cracking where the bolts hold it in place, and it had been painted so I just had them change it out. I changed the oil on day 1 of ownership and it looked clean.

But here id the problem. The previous owner took out an electric motor that sits below the rear seat, and the "cable" or electrical lines which is causing the FI light to come on. I had the dealer order those as well. The electric motor and one cable are on their way to the dealer. However one of the cables is on backorder til 11/10. With that being the case, it makes the ecu think something is wrong with the motor, and will not allow the rpm's to get over 8000. Not that I ever go over that, but thats not the point. Does anyone have a clue where I may find this cable?

Now for the second part of the equation. The frame right under the gas tank has a crack in it. It's about 3/4 of an inch long and runs in a "u" shape to the inside of the frame. The dealer says that I should get that fixed asap. But I can not afford to do that right now. How long can I ride it while still being "safe"? I am using this prety much for getting to and from work. A total of 40 miles a day, and no wheelieing (which is what the mechanic says caused the crack in the first place)

Thanks in advance,
1st 10R
 

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You don't need the servo or cables. You can just order a Ivans servo eliminator for about$100 and be done with that. The crack can be rewelded for less than $50. The tail cowl section is a notorious problem. Mine has some cracks but no big deal. Your new one will crack again if you don't reinforce it.
 

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:+1:
you don't need the servo or cables. You can just order a ivans servo eliminator for about$100 and be done with that. The crack can be rewelded for less than $50. The tail cowl section is a notorious problem. Mine has some cracks but no big deal. Your new one will crack again if you don't reinforce it.
 

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The stealership is really RIPPING YOU OFF if they're charging that much for the servo and cables! Does the bike have a full exhaust on it? Either way, get your bike back and order the servo eliminator!
 

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SPLAT!!!
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:+2: before going to a stealership check here, alot of cool dudes and TONS of info and will save you a bunch of $$ from your dealer. Also, :welcome:
 

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Sorry to hear your troubles with your new 10r.

I would have the frame repaired before i rode it again if i'm honest with you.

A cracked frame in the UK is an immediate insurance write off regardless of condition, age or mileage.

Do yourself a favour, get the bike checked out professionally as from the condition you described the bike is in, with respect, who knows what you've missed!!

Have it checked/repaired so you can ride it with piece of mind.

Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I bought the bike about a week and a half ago, the stealership has had it for a week and a day already. I just wanted the,m to do a look over and make sure that it was in pretty descent shape. They found a few things like missing bolts and stuff like that. Thanks for all the help. I brought it in and there was a recall on the front wheel at least for the 04 that had never been taken care of. So I got a new front wheel out of the deal. I will call them and get it back hopefully today. In regards to the reinforcing of the plastic what do you suggest? Something like an epoxy? Thanks for the headsup, and I will have a few pics posted as soon as I get it back. I live in Indianapolis, IN and am looking for a good place to get it repaired. Anyone know of anywhere near here?
 

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>>>will not allow the rpm's to get over 8000. Not that I ever go over that, but thats not the point.<<<

??? If you don't plan to go over 8000 rpm, why did you get a 10R?... or why get any modern sport bike for that matter?
 

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The stealership is really RIPPING YOU OFF if they're charging that much for the servo and cables! Does the bike have a full exhaust on it? Either way, get your bike back and order the servo eliminator!
+1. They are taking you for a fun ride on your dime. A rear cowl is cheaper off eBay dealerships that sell them considerably cheaper. I bought a lower fairing for my 06 and it was $80 cheaper to go that route than a dealership. A dealership tried to tell me a mirror was $80. I got one off eBay for $30 a pair...Just examples of how you can pay less if you shop and DIY.

BTW if this bike had so many problems from your viewpoint, why did you buy it?:heyyou:
 

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A frame is like $600USD from Kawasaki. Way less than the repair bill that shop quoted you just for the exhaust servo (what a rip off!)

I can tear a 10r apart and reassemble it on a new frame by myself in about 4 hours. If you get a shop to replace your frame dont let them fuck you and charge like a grand in labor. And yes, I am 97.6% sure Kawasaki makes their frames from recycled bud light cans.

I honestly would not let a shop just weld that crack. You dont know how far it goes or if there is another you haven't noticed on the other side. The bike should be disassembled, inspected thoroughly and repaired properly or replaced! On the bright side, if you get it welded its a good opportunity to have the frame powdercoated a cool color!
 

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Where do they crack at? How can you reinforce it?
They crack along the top mounting points. They do this if you remove the mud flap because that is what supports the tail section. So you either need to support the tail or possibly add some fiberglass. I have done neither but I only have one crack.
 

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for the tabs at the tail light. use plastic weld to reinforce which u can get from home depot or lowes! YOU MUST DO THIS OR IT WILL CRACK again! I had cracks and I replaced it and reinforced it..speaking of which I need to finish that reinforce job today.
 

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Greetings all,

I just bought my first 10r. I upgraded from my zx-6r, and I have run into a few problems along the way.

I bought the bike w/o having it checked out by a Kawi dealership. If I had before I never would have bought this one. It is a 2004 with 27,000 miles on it. It has the FI light on, and it needs a few parts. So far the total at the dealership is almost a grand. I had them order in new rear cowling, I got the integrated rear light, and license plate. THe previous owner did a rear eliminator kit, but did not put on license plate holder, and actually zip tied it horizontally under the fender. As well as no rear turn signals. The rear cowling was cracking where the bolts hold it in place, and it had been painted so I just had them change it out. I changed the oil on day 1 of ownership and it looked clean.

But here id the problem. The previous owner took out an electric motor that sits below the rear seat, and the "cable" or electrical lines which is causing the FI light to come on. I had the dealer order those as well. The electric motor and one cable are on their way to the dealer. However one of the cables is on backorder til 11/10. With that being the case, it makes the ecu think something is wrong with the motor, and will not allow the rpm's to get over 8000. Not that I ever go over that, but thats not the point. Does anyone have a clue where I may find this cable?

Now for the second part of the equation. The frame right under the gas tank has a crack in it. It's about 3/4 of an inch long and runs in a "u" shape to the inside of the frame. The dealer says that I should get that fixed asap. But I can not afford to do that right now. How long can I ride it while still being "safe"? I am using this prety much for getting to and from work. A total of 40 miles a day, and no wheelieing (which is what the mechanic says caused the crack in the first place)

Thanks in advance,
1st 10R
www.bikebandit.com has all you need and will get it to you quick!
 

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if you buy the fender eliminator kit that bolts into the two openings on the bottom side of your tail, this will help reinforce your tailsection. It holds the tail against the battery tray which in turn takes pressure off your mounting points. If the crack is in the location you say it is, and is no bigger, get it PROFESSIONALLY welded, about $50-$75. I have the servo cables and motor out of my bike, if you are interested, I can ship you the entire set for $30, if youre in the lower 48. Good luck, dont panic, but you should go to the dealership armed with knowledge and numbers before you just say "here you go, fix it", otherwise you are paying for all them to have a great weekend ahead.
 

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They crack along the top mounting points. They do this if you remove the mud flap because that is what supports the tail section. So you either need to support the tail or possibly add some fiberglass. I have done neither but I only have one crack.
Good thing my Greggs turn signals are going on soon, I don't have anything supporting it right now. Thanks for the info.
 

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Go to the Indiana link thread on here. I think Kabooki (?) owns his own bike shop and I'm sure can probably help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
[BTW if this bike had so many problems from your viewpoint, why did you buy it?:heyyou:[/QUOTE]

I bought the bike not knowing most of these problems.

I have used bikebandit with my other bikes, and have already picked up some stuff from there for this one. I just ordered the servo eliminator kit, so that should be here soon. Then I will be up and riding. Thanks to all of you who were helpful with my new toy, and just so no one thinks I am a wimp, the statement about the 8000 rpm limit was completely sarcastic. There is a reason why I went bigger. Go big or go home right....
Take care and ride safe,
Greg
 
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