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Servo's Eliminatus ;)
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I've seen where a few people have been asking on how to tell if your fuel pump is bad.
I had someone tell me how to do this, So I'm passing it on to you guy's.
There is an easy way to test it yourself.

Remove your seat.
Pull the black fuel line that feeds the fuel rail,
put the open end into the measuring cup.
Turn the ignition on for 4 seconds only.(Be Precise)
If there is less than 1/3rd cup. Fuel pump needs replacing.
If there is 1/3rd or more, fuel pump is good.
 

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BigCat for Prez!
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7,229 Posts
will be checking this ASAP hoping its just my plugs making it run like doodoo right now bec i had an extra pump last week, but its been sold...
 

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2,653 Posts
Great write up! Very simple, and explained it in the least amount of words...
 

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145 Posts
Thanks for the great info!!!
 

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1,056 Posts
Ok, so I've seen where a few people have been asking on how to tell if your fuel pump is bad.
I had someone tell me how to do this, So I'm passing it on to you guy's.
There is an easy way to test it yourself.

Remove your seat.
Pull the black fuel line that feeds the fuel rail,
put the open end into the measuring cup.
Turn the ignition on for 4 seconds only.(Be Precise)
If there is less than 1/3rd cup. Fuel pump needs replacing.
If there is 1/3rd or more, fuel pump is good.
A difference for the Gen 4:
With the fuel line disconnected from the fuel rail, the fuel pump should stop after three seconds. Per the service manual, the amount of fuel collected over the three seconds should be:
Amount of Fuel Flow
Standard: 67 mL (2.3 US oz.) or more for 3 seconds​
Which is around 30% or more of a cup.

Also the fuel pressure at idle (measured with an oil pressure gauge off a T-hose on a test fuel line):
Fuel Pressure (with Engine Idling)
Standard: 294 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm², 43 psi)​

• If the fuel pressure is much higher than specified, replace the fuel pump because the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel pump have been clogged or stuck.

• If the fuel pressure is much lower than specified, check the following:
Fuel Line Leakage​
 

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Servo's Eliminatus ;)
Joined
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6,813 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
A difference for the Gen 4:
With the fuel line disconnected from the fuel rail, the fuel pump should stop after three seconds. Per the service manual, the amount of fuel collected over the three seconds should be:
Amount of Fuel Flow
Standard: 67 mL (2.3 US oz.) or more for 3 seconds​
Which is around 30% or more of a cup.

Also the fuel pressure at idle (measured with an oil pressure gauge off a T-hose on a test fuel line):
Fuel Pressure (with Engine Idling)
Standard: 294 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm², 43 psi)​

• If the fuel pressure is much higher than specified, replace the fuel pump because the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel pump have been clogged or stuck.

• If the fuel pressure is much lower than specified, check the following:
Fuel Line Leakage​
Cool, :eek:ccasion1 Thank you for the Gen 4 Update Rod.
 

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131 Posts
2011 Gen 4

My current issue is that the fuel pump isn't priming when the key is switched on. I checked the IG fuse but is there another fuse or a relay I can check for the fuel pump?

Can I jump it with a 9V or 12V power adaptor for a second or two to make sure it's not the pump itself?

The dash flashes the fuel light and yes she has gas... Thx
 

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REPOST Enforcement Mod
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14,058 Posts
Pump works since I was able to jump it. Does anyone know where the fuel pump relay is at or a fuse? Don't have a manual yet...
I the relay is bad, you have to replace the entire relay box on the left side of the airbox attached to the inside of the fairing piece around the tank. It's not separate.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Bloo Moderator
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23,742 Posts
Can other used main relay accessembly boxes off different KAW models be used if the model number is the same "27002-0007"?

For Example....
should work if the signals are the same, you maybe able to get away with using a single relay for the one that is bad but would require some splicing and wiring plus testing but it's possible....basically the relay box is just that housing a few relays in ONE box nothing special.

Bloo
 

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Bloo Moderator
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23,742 Posts
It appears to be using "Relay 4" inside the box but yeah forget all that and I'll just get one from a Gen 4. Just not 100% sure that's the issue and it's double the price.
yeah if signals and connectors are the same you shouldn't have to pay more...then there is fitment...if all those are the same it should be good to go using another but sounds like you're not sure yet...you really need to make sure it's the problem first it's just a relay you can test it most times off the bike....especially in this case if it's a matter of on and OFF.

bloo
 

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Registered
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131 Posts
bloo,

So you got me thinking and I attempted to test red and tan w/ yellow strip pins on the main relay and the ohms does change from " 1 " to " 0.2 " using the "20K" setting. Does this mean the relay is or has the ability to close like it should?

This is all new to me so sorry if this doesn't make sense...
 
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