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This mod is for people that like the overall look of the stock first generation ZX-10R exhaust canister, but want something a little shorter without having to pay a few hundred dollars for an aftermarket slip-on. I do not gut out the muffler or install a different baffle in this mod, merely shortened the can for looks. The sound is a bit different, not much louder than stock (just a bit throatier) and you can get away without remapping your fuel.
The process requires basic mechanical skills, BUT it can all be accomplished with tools that most everybody has in their garage. Chances are if you don’t have these tools, your neighbor does. I have access to a full machine and welding shop and could have knocked this project out in much less time with less effort but I did it this way just to see if it could be done.
I would recommend finding a stock muffler on ebay or somewhere for cheap instead of doing this to the stock can that is mounted on your bike....just in case you screw it up. Also this will allow you to reinstall your original stock muffler come inspection time if so desired. Stock mufflers are EVERYWHERE, for CHEAP. I got mine in perfect condition for $5 plus shipping.

Alright, let’s rock. Here’s what you will need:

4mm Allen wrench, 13mm combo wrench or socket, ruler, Sharpie, needlenose pliers, a rivet tool, utility knife, masking tape, drill and bit for whatever size rivets you choose, a Dremel with a sanding wheel, and a SawzAll. If you have cutting wheels for the Dremel you can probably skip the SawzAll. You will also need some tunes... I had all three Breaking Benjamin cds blasting in the shop and the length of time was about perfect. I also used a file that I didn’t include in the photo because it is rusty as hell. Also, you will need beer, which I did not include in the photo because all I had left was Natural Light and I didn’t want anyone to know I drank that white trash crap from time to time. There, I said it.

Mark your project muffler with masking tape at the desired length. Mine (muffler) is 13 inches, if you were wondering.

Remove the midpipe.

and the end flange cover.

Now mask off where you are going to cut to keep from scratching the can and cut the outer can. It is very thin and easy to cut, so don’t cut too deep, but don’t worry if you do.

Now separate the longer section of outer can from the rest of the muffler.

The edge you just cut will be visible on your finished product, so clean it up real nice, and purdy-like. You also want it to be as close to straight as you can get it, but don’t freak out if you can’t get it perfect.

Now pick the muffler up by the remaining outer can and invert it. Tap the pipe on the table and the can will slide down off the muffler.....it may take some coaxing. You won’t be using this piece.

Now slit the packing open and take it off

To reveal............TITANIUM GOODNESS.

Now reinsert the muffler into the outer can all the way so you can mark the length with a Sharpie pen.....if you didn’t already do that with the SawzAll while you were cutting the outer can off (told you not to worry).

Now since the end flange sits about 3/4 inch deep you want to go back and make a second mark 3/4 inch to the right of the first (with the exit of the muffler on your left)


Cut clear through the muffler as straight as you can and you should have something that looks like this.

How did you enjoy ripping through titanium with the SawzAll? Ah, hell.... you ride a first generation ZX-10R... you ought to be used to vibration like that. A band saw would be much better but I was proving a point...

Anyhow.... cut around the bottom of the outer flange like so...

Now look inside and see about where you are going to cut your exit pipe. I cut mine just as it straightens out. Make a mark.......

And cut down through until the exit pipe comes free. Clean up the end because this will be in your exhaust path.


Now you need to take some length off the entrance pipe. You can either drill out all the welds and slide the sleeve off and cut the pipe, or you can just do like I did......

Mark the pipe the length you want it and cut through the sleeve just enough to severe the pipe.



Now test fit your flange. Here is where having nice straight cuts is important. Use the Dremel or a grinder if you have one to make it mate up. Titanium throws lots of pretty white sparks ......


Now slide it into the outer can all the way and check the fit. Adjust where you need too.

Take it back out, trim your packing to length, and secure it in place with masking tape.


Slide it back in and put the end flange cover back on. Get the two pieces to fit like you want them to.


Now plan ahead where you are going to put your rivets. Your rivets will need a 3/8 inch grab, or .375. I used the smallest diameter I could find and used 6 of them spaced equally around the pipe, 3/8 of an inch from the end so that they grab into the flat spot of the end flange. Rivet each hole as you drill it to keep you from having issues with holes lining up.



And you are done. Go bolt that biatch on.
Here’s the side-by-side comparison......

Here’s the stock can, before....

And the stock shorty....

And my new pipe with my pimpin’ underbody lights......

Hope you enjoyed the mod. It cost less than $20 and 4 hours of my time to do it and I had no idea what the inside of this muffler was going to look like before I started. I like the way it looks and sounds. There is no real noticeable power gain or loss.
 
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