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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
:)
The following instructions are not detailed to the extent some would like but they are sufficient enough to get the job done for the vast majority.


KLEEN /AIS removal procedure:

It's a pretty straight forward job using some basic tools once the seat, black side panels (2), gas tank, and both side body panels are removed for easy access to the solenoid, charcoal canister and associated hoses, it does of course require removing the airbox, and that itself requires an interesting method as the airbox is shoehorned into the spars and can be rotated counter clockwise in conjunction with pushing the rubber air intake boots forward making for the necessary room to remove it.

To remove the AIS/KLEEN solenoid, you’ll need the following:
(1) 5/8th vacuum cap (primary solenoid feed from airbox base plate)
(2) 3/8th vacuum caps (or appropriate reed block off plates)

To remove the charcoal canister (and related hardware), you’ll need the following:
(2) 1/8th vacuum caps (throttle body lines)
(1) 3/16th vacuum cap for the red tank inlet (charcoal canister/fuel tank feed – 1/4th caps may be applicable)
(1) suitable hose (perferably the hose with a blue stripe) connected to the blue tank inlet nipple and routed inside the RH frame rail and across the backside of the throttle bodies, then insert a 'T' fitting into it so that the OEM tank vent hose & overflow hose can be connected into the other 2 ends of the 'T' fitting so the tank vents properly.

Band / compression clasps, zip ties, hose clamps throughout (where applicable), are essential in order to seal the vacuum caps.



BD
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah the plates are by far the cleanest setup but using the plugs gives the same results so its nice to have a choice.

BD
 

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Re: KLEEN / AIS removal procedure for Cal / 50st bikes

Big Daddy said:
:)
The following instructions are not detailed to the extent some would like but they are sufficient enough to get the job done for the vast majority.


KLEEN /AIS removal procedure:

It's a pretty straight forward job using some basic tools once the seat, black side panels (2), gas tank, and both side body panels are removed for easy access to the solenoid, charcoal canister and associated hoses, it does of course require removing the airbox, and that itself requires an interesting method as the airbox is shoehorned into the spars and can be rotated counter clockwise in conjunction with pushing the rubber air intake boots forward making for the necessary room to remove it.

To remove the AIS/KLEEN solenoid, you’ll need the following:
(1) 5/8th vacuum cap (primary solenoid feed from airbox base plate)
(2) 3/8th vacuum caps (or appropriate reed block off plates)

To remove the charcoal canister (and related hardware), you’ll need the following:
(2) 1/8th vacuum caps (throttle body lines)
(1) 3/16th vacuum cap for the red inlet (charcoal canister/fuel tank feed – 1/4th caps may be applicable)
(1) suitable hose (perferably the hose with a blue stripe) connected to the blue inlet and routed inside the RH frame rail and across the backside of the FI bodies, then insert a 'T' fitting into it so that the tank vent/overflow hose can be connected into the other 2 ends so the tank vents properly.

Band / compression clasps, zip ties, hose clamps throughout (where applicable), are essential in order to seal the vacuum caps.

Sorry no pics as i don't have a digi. :(

BD
My doctor said that I'm allowed one stupid question per day, so here's today's question.

What is the AIS / KLEEN? What does it do and why do you remove it?
 

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Are there any ill effects of using the block off plates? The KLEEN system is just an emissions control component, so disabling it won't affect performance or anything, will it?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
dnwhoop02 said:
Are there any ill effects of using the block off plates? The KLEEN system is just an emissions control component, so disabling it won't affect performance or anything, will it?
The plates would be the better setup if you have them or plan to purchase them (at the time they were not available yet so......) The disconnecting of the KLEEN components will not effect performance.

BD
 

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Thanks more usefull info.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
those look like pics of a pw 50 :p :twisted:

BD
 

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do you live ont he west coast? if so could you do it for me ill buy you something for your bike j/k
 

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stunnerific_harry said:
do you live ont he west coast? if so could you do it for me ill buy you something for your bike j/k
Gladly. But I think I'll take a new bike to go with all the somethings I have, instead. I won't be able to work on anything until the collar bone heals, tho.
 

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Big Daddy said:
It's a pretty straight forward job using some basic tools once the seat, black side panels (2), gas tank, and both side body panels are removed for easy access to the solenoid
yeah, easy access my ass!

Canyon- when you installed the block-off plates, did you use any silicone grease around the edge to seal them? Or do you think that's important? I got one plate installed last night, and didn't think about using the grease until after it was all tightened down. I really don't want to have to pull it back off if I don't have to since the forward bolt is a pain in the ass to get to.

Also, I wonder if it might be a good idea to wire up a resistor in place of that air solenoid thingy so the ECU won't notice that it's gone. Just a thought....
 

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dnwhoop02 said:
Canyon- when you installed the block-off plates, did you use any silicone grease around the edge to seal them? Or do you think that's important? I got one plate installed last night, and didn't think about using the grease until after it was all tightened down. I really don't want to have to pull it back off if I don't have to since the forward bolt is a pain in the ass to get to.

Also, I wonder if it might be a good idea to wire up a resistor in place of that air solenoid thingy so the ECU won't notice that it's gone. Just a thought....
Nope, didn't use any grease or sealant of any kind. Thought about it, but the gaskets/seals that were in place looked nice and clean & fresh, so I figured I'd try without and re-do if they didn't seal properly. Luckily, they sealed fine without any help.

As for the resistor idea, I just removed the solenoid. It didn't cause any issues with the ECU as far as I can tell. No codes or FI lights flashing. It would appear that it doesn't feed back problems to the ECU.

BTW, yeah the bolts are a pain to get at. I didn't remove the side panels, but am a professional contortionist with an allen wrench. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
as of just a couple of days ago my FI light has come on and has remained on. I've made to changes since my KLEEN/AIS removal.

BD
 

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Canyon- There aren't any seals/gaskets in there.... are you talking about the reed valves? I wasn't sure if the bolts that came with the plates were long enough to keep those in, so I removed them.
 

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dnwhoop02 said:
Canyon- There aren't any seals/gaskets in there.... are you talking about the reed valves? I wasn't sure if the bolts that came with the plates were long enough to keep those in, so I removed them.
Yes I am. The reed valves stay in place. If you remove them, you've lost your seals. I'd suggest you put them back, and things should be fine. The bolts do seem a bit short, but I had no problems with them. If you are using the Kyle plates that I have, the bolts should be the correct length.
 

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dnwhoop02 said:
aww man.... those reed valves are way too heavy! I'm looking for MAXIMUM weight reduction here... :D
:lol: Well, I suppose you could take the ol' die-grinder to the inner portion of them, to reduce the weight of the valve. Just be sure to leave the sealing portion alone. :wink:

Then again, I've seen people use JB Weld to seal the passages before. I imagine this would save weight, but at what price, I don't know. :roll:
 
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