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First off everything for this mod was from TheRetrofitSource.com, i would give them a 10 of 10 for service. every question i had was answered with sound advice. on top of that quality is unmatched when it comes to the parts. i spent months researching what i wanted to do, everything i read said you could not fit Morimoto Mini H1's in the Gen 4. however i had taken some measurements and i was sure they would fit so i jumped. this mod was a headache from the start. it was my first projector retrofit so doing it on the Gen 4 made it that much worse. hopefully this will make it easier for any who follow in my foot steps.
this retrofit will take you a weekend not including the time for paint to dry, i recommend getting a second headlight housing to modify or do it over the winter, if you have one.
I sourced everything from TRS with the exception of switches (amazon) and electrical micro connectors(local hobby shop). i used the motorcycle stage 2 kit with morimoto mini H1 bi-xenon projectors, 4300k bulbs, mini gatling gun shrouds, h7 relay, 2 sets of 6" xb led strips and 2 set of 70mm xb halos.
first thing, open your headlights. assuming you can get them off your bike. see the service manual. its simpler than it looks. i baked mine for 10min at 220F. then used a butter knife to open them up. be slow and wear leather gloves.
throughout the whole retrofit i recommend taking your time. better to not go fast and get it right the first time. i had to source a second reflector because messed up the first one. thanks GlassAnkles!
once you get the reflectors out you can take a dremal or a belt sander to it. see the pictures but i ground down a cutoff wheel to the right length and the cut off the back of the reflector off. i wanted to leave the alignment notch on the top so i had something to reference, hence the way i used the dremal. Really all you need to do is sand down the back of the reflector so its about 1/8” thick
you will also be required to cut the inside wall of the reflector and the bottom out for proper clearance. see later pic
i originally tried to use the stock mounting hole in the reflector, the one you see me carefully trimming, and the h7 adaptor. turns out the if you do the projector will not fit the top of it will end up hitting the headlight housing and it will point downward only giving you 10-15ft of light. hence me not finding anything saying this would work.
to solve this i had to lower the back of the projector . this rotated the projector enough for me to lower the front of it and still point light out the front at the right angle. unfortunately it was super late and i was wired so i didn't get any photos. I used the h11 adaptor and a surplus of jb weld. If you kept the alignment notch take measurements I went 3/16” lower than the notch. Be careful if you go to far down the mounting clip for the xexnon bulb will hit the back of the housing. See photos later.
Before you move on you will need to build up the areas below the hole. In the next few steps you will need to remove a lot of the material inside the reflector to create the required clearances. I cannot give any measurements for this, its really just trial and error. Remember lots of fitups. Once you get it just right I recommend sealing up your headlights and doing some beam alignment installed on the bike. If I remember right it’s the cutoff 3.5’ high at 30’ on a flat wall.
Once you know its good. paint em (IMO They look good painted black) and install your halos/demon eyes if you got em. A lot of people just epoxy for this but I used some 1/32” lockwire. Just drilled some holes 120 degrees apart and lockwired em in place. You cant even see it unless you know its there.
Fit up your projectors once again to the modified reflector. Finger tight (I used the smaller rubber washer because I didn’t want to be able to see it. Now we got to mount the led drivers to the back of the reflector as seen. Jb weld again, I went through 3 sets of this shit. The large black driver is for the halo and the 2 smaller chrome ones are for the 6” strips I used.
I also mounted 2 6” XB led strips on the lens.
here is were i made another mistake, i didn't realize it until i was all done but you won't be able to seal up your headlights with the hid power coming through the removable cap. cut holes as seen and route hid wires as seen in this photo. this also shows how i routed wires and extended the removable cap using a green chili can. you will also want to cut the 2 clips the hold the stock headlight wires inside the headlight. they were in my way when adjusting the beam.
Mount it all in the headlight but don’t install the lens yet. Do some primitive wiring and align your rotation while on the bike. And tighten down the projectors. See the 2 black n red wires coming out the front those are for the led strips I used.
Install the headlight lens with the adhesive TRS supplied in your kit and bake for one last time. followed by final bench testing with 9v batteries.
Now for the fun part wiring them up. I soldered all the strips together and the halos together. To get rid of the clutter I glued them along the headlight housing. They get power from the city light through 2 illuminated switches on the upper inner faring. The HIDs are powered from the supplied harness from TRS. the ballasts fit nicely in the void behind the tach. Eventually I will be installing a headlight kill switch through the oem relay box, just waiting on the switch to come in.
Its late and im sure I missed a bunch of good stuff but that’s all for now ill answer any questions you have.
this retrofit will take you a weekend not including the time for paint to dry, i recommend getting a second headlight housing to modify or do it over the winter, if you have one.
I sourced everything from TRS with the exception of switches (amazon) and electrical micro connectors(local hobby shop). i used the motorcycle stage 2 kit with morimoto mini H1 bi-xenon projectors, 4300k bulbs, mini gatling gun shrouds, h7 relay, 2 sets of 6" xb led strips and 2 set of 70mm xb halos.
first thing, open your headlights. assuming you can get them off your bike. see the service manual. its simpler than it looks. i baked mine for 10min at 220F. then used a butter knife to open them up. be slow and wear leather gloves.
throughout the whole retrofit i recommend taking your time. better to not go fast and get it right the first time. i had to source a second reflector because messed up the first one. thanks GlassAnkles!
once you get the reflectors out you can take a dremal or a belt sander to it. see the pictures but i ground down a cutoff wheel to the right length and the cut off the back of the reflector off. i wanted to leave the alignment notch on the top so i had something to reference, hence the way i used the dremal. Really all you need to do is sand down the back of the reflector so its about 1/8” thick
you will also be required to cut the inside wall of the reflector and the bottom out for proper clearance. see later pic
i originally tried to use the stock mounting hole in the reflector, the one you see me carefully trimming, and the h7 adaptor. turns out the if you do the projector will not fit the top of it will end up hitting the headlight housing and it will point downward only giving you 10-15ft of light. hence me not finding anything saying this would work.
to solve this i had to lower the back of the projector . this rotated the projector enough for me to lower the front of it and still point light out the front at the right angle. unfortunately it was super late and i was wired so i didn't get any photos. I used the h11 adaptor and a surplus of jb weld. If you kept the alignment notch take measurements I went 3/16” lower than the notch. Be careful if you go to far down the mounting clip for the xexnon bulb will hit the back of the housing. See photos later.
Before you move on you will need to build up the areas below the hole. In the next few steps you will need to remove a lot of the material inside the reflector to create the required clearances. I cannot give any measurements for this, its really just trial and error. Remember lots of fitups. Once you get it just right I recommend sealing up your headlights and doing some beam alignment installed on the bike. If I remember right it’s the cutoff 3.5’ high at 30’ on a flat wall.
Once you know its good. paint em (IMO They look good painted black) and install your halos/demon eyes if you got em. A lot of people just epoxy for this but I used some 1/32” lockwire. Just drilled some holes 120 degrees apart and lockwired em in place. You cant even see it unless you know its there.
Fit up your projectors once again to the modified reflector. Finger tight (I used the smaller rubber washer because I didn’t want to be able to see it. Now we got to mount the led drivers to the back of the reflector as seen. Jb weld again, I went through 3 sets of this shit. The large black driver is for the halo and the 2 smaller chrome ones are for the 6” strips I used.
I also mounted 2 6” XB led strips on the lens.
here is were i made another mistake, i didn't realize it until i was all done but you won't be able to seal up your headlights with the hid power coming through the removable cap. cut holes as seen and route hid wires as seen in this photo. this also shows how i routed wires and extended the removable cap using a green chili can. you will also want to cut the 2 clips the hold the stock headlight wires inside the headlight. they were in my way when adjusting the beam.
Mount it all in the headlight but don’t install the lens yet. Do some primitive wiring and align your rotation while on the bike. And tighten down the projectors. See the 2 black n red wires coming out the front those are for the led strips I used.
Install the headlight lens with the adhesive TRS supplied in your kit and bake for one last time. followed by final bench testing with 9v batteries.
Now for the fun part wiring them up. I soldered all the strips together and the halos together. To get rid of the clutter I glued them along the headlight housing. They get power from the city light through 2 illuminated switches on the upper inner faring. The HIDs are powered from the supplied harness from TRS. the ballasts fit nicely in the void behind the tach. Eventually I will be installing a headlight kill switch through the oem relay box, just waiting on the switch to come in.
Its late and im sure I missed a bunch of good stuff but that’s all for now ill answer any questions you have.