[ontada2]

I notice that the pads have a constant rub on my rotors, my front wheel doesn't have any free spin with the calipers on, the rotors are not warped. With the calipers off, the wheel spins forever. Short of buying GP calipers with retraction devices, is there any way to get the pads not to contact the rotor so much when not braking?

Reason being I'm thinking of upgrading to ceramic wheel bearings but I don't want to waste money on the front because I think the drag created by the pads will negate what I have gained by upgrading to the ceramic bearings. I don't want to waste 200 bucks.

The rear wheel, chain and caliper on, spin way more than the front. I figured this was because the brake has a sliding type caliper.

I appreciate your thoughts on the matter.

 

[jimZX10r]

proper torque on the axles will help. if you aren't using a torque wrench, get one.

crudded up pistons can also cause a little bit of drag. make sure everything is clean as can be.

 

[themightymezzo]

I think mine may rub slightly as well. I believe it's always been like that since I got the bike?!?!

 

[ontada2]

proper torque on the axles will help. if you aren't using a torque wrench, get one.

QUOTE]

The front wheel spins like crazy when I don't have the calipers on. That's why I'm kind of convinced that all the drag is coming from the rotor/pad interaction. Also I shot down my calipers with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, so I doubt there is much dirt in there anymore.

I guess what I'm looking for is a cheap, maybe DIY, pad retention device for stock calipers.

On another note, if I can't stop the friction, should I still get ceramic wheel bearings on the front?

Thank you again.

 

[wildcats]

i dont think it effects you as much as you think it does. most bikes have a little friction but nothing serious

 

[russell]

hasn't the ceramic bearings debate happened a few times?

 

[10 speed]

I got ceramics too and you are correct. now the wheel will spin more even with the pads on but i agree. if there was away to retract them, even a thousanth of a inch it would be cool.

Now that being said I have seen away to do the rear on vortex rear sets... And yes its getto. A guy at jennings had a big rubberband pulling up on the brake lever. {with the spring} I asked what it was for and he said "To retract the rear brake pad... Im not sure if it worked but it would cause a TINY bit of negative pressure in the caliper. not sure if it would be enough though. So take from it what you will

 

[ZX10Miami]

I have seen away to do the rear on vortex rear sets... And yes its getto. A guy at jennings had a big rubberband pulling up on the brake lever. {with the spring} I asked what it was for and he said "To retract the rear brake pad... Im not sure if it worked but it would cause a TINY bit of negative pressure in the caliper. not sure if it would be enough though. So take from it what you will

That is how they do it in MotoGP, big rubber bands.:badteeth::helmet:

 

[10 speed]

yea i know man...i know..

 

[TN10R]

My understanding for the restriction on the rear bike is to prevent too much pressure from being applied, and not related to "retracting" the pads.

About all you can do is keep everything clean. Remove the pistons every year or two and clean everything up good. Give them fresh seals as needed.

Any rotor is going to have a few .001" of wobble. With two of them that's enough to produce a little drag.

 

[currie954]

proper torque on the axles will help. if you aren't using a torque wrench, get one.

QUOTE]

The front wheel spins like crazy when I don't have the calipers on. That's why I'm kind of convinced that all the drag is coming from the rotor/pad interaction. Also I shot down my calipers with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, so I doubt there is much dirt in there anymore.

I guess what I'm looking for is a cheap, maybe DIY, pad retention device for stock calipers.

On another note, if I can't stop the friction, should I still get ceramic wheel bearings on the front?

Thank you again.

would you really notice the upgraded bearings:dontknow: other then the $200 receipt in your wallet:headshake

 

[ontada2]

I've seen dyno numbers on cars with ceramic bearings, it's a noticeabe difference. It's 20 whp on a Nissan GT-R, only mod was ceramic wheel bearings. The stock GT-R Brembos don't have have a retraction device, so I think I'm going to get similar results.

Mostly I was looking for a pad retraction mod for the front calipers more than the rear. My rear wheel spins like crazy compared to the front.

So do you think the rotors contact the pads because of that slight wobble inherent in brake rotors?

Thank you all for your input.

 

[10 speed]

Im all for ceramics

 

[GregGorman]

Regarding brake drag. I'm having a real problem with it myself so I asked the mechanic at the California Superbike School. You're always going to have some brake drag but the seals around the pistons are designed to pull back the pistons a little after the brakes are released. What happens though is that when people pump the front brake lever after changing brake pads or mounting a new front tire, they pump the front brake lever all the way to the handle bar. This forces the pistons out too far and prevents the seal from pulling them back in. Do this enough times and you'll have a gradually increasing problem of brake drag.

To fix it, push the pistons all the way in. Then pump the front brake lever by squeezing no more than half way to the bar at a time. It takes a few minutes to pump the brakes this way but should handle the brake drag issues.

 

[tasos]

proper torque on the axles will help. If you aren't using a torque wrench, get one.

Crudded up pistons can also cause a little bit of drag. make sure everything is clean as can be.

:+1:

 

[Quig]

Regarding brake drag. I'm having a real problem with it myself so I asked the mechanic at the California Superbike School. You're always going to have some brake drag but the seals around the pistons are designed to pull back the pistons a little after the brakes are released. What happens though is that when people pump the front brake lever after changing brake pads or mounting a new front tire, they pump the front brake lever all the way to the handle bar. This forces the pistons out too far and prevents the seal from pulling them back in. Do this enough times and you'll have a gradually increasing problem of brake drag.

To fix it, push the pistons all the way in. Then pump the front brake lever by squeezing no more than half way to the bar at a time. It takes a few minutes to pump the brakes this way but should handle the brake drag issues.

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?

Excuse me, but I change front tires A LOT and I always pump the brake lever all the way to the bar. I have no brake drag. The premise of what you're suggesting makes ZERO sense. Whether your pump the lever to the bar or half way or somewhere else the same thing is going to happen... the pistons are going to push the pads out to the rotors. The only thing that's going to change is how long it takes...

Furthermore, for you guys having significant drag problems what pads are you running? I've got Ferodo XRAC's in right now and the drag is significantly less than stock.

 

[OrangeShirtDude]

What you observe in the garage up on stands is not the same thing you observe while in motion at street speeds or above. In the garage you will observe drag. At speed, you will not because the rotor will force enough air through the gap to clear the pad off of the rotor. Don't sweat it.

 

[lowkey420]

ceramics are the future! resistence is futile!