Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Do NOT think that you will go out and slap on a fender eliminator quickly on this bike. The install of the Graves FE took me all of 2 hours to complete. Mind you, I didn't know what I had to remove to get everything off, but still. It will take you at least 45 minutes to do this using my how-to.

Even though the install was a pain, I must say that the product is very high quality and it looks amazing!

That ugly thing hanging off the back needs to go...




The goods:


First thing you need to do is remove the passenger seat.


Remove the plate bolts and the frame and plate drops off.



Remove the 4 silver bolts you see here with a 4mm allen key and slide off the tail section. The rear section comes up and the front slides back out from under the front seat.



Remove these 2 bolts for the seat:



To remove the small, painted pieces from the tail, first pop in these push-clips:


Then loosen these bolts and remove:


The undertail needs to be loosened as well. It will not come out yet. Push-clips are underneath



Now for the fun stuff... Think small thoughts here to make your hands smaller.:crackup: These are the bolts that hold the 2 outer "bars" of the stock fender on. They are under the tool kit and wiring harness. I unplugged the tail light to get more access.



These are the things that hold the "bars" in.


Start working on the outer part of the stock fender eliminator by removing these bolts:


By undoing those 2 bolts above, the fender kind of folds down and you can start to see how the wiring is ran.


The center "bar" of the fender eliminator is held on by a bolt directly behind the tail light. This "bar" also houses the wires for the stock fender.


You can now slide down the undertail for more room to pull the wires through from the trunk.


Unplug your signals and tag light to start pulling them through the stock fender:


Remove the stock fender, leaving the "bars" up there for now.


Now pull the stock bars out of there.


All empty:


To remove the stock turn signals from the stock fender, there is a small bolt on the inside and then a metal backing plate can be pulled out. This plate acts like a lock for the signal.Turn signal half way out:


Now you can start assembling the Graves unit. First install the signals in their holes:


The new "bars" are much shorter and black too!


All assembled and ready to be installed:


The "bars" should now slide up into their factory holes in the undertail pretty snug and just kind of hang out there while you push the signal wires back up through the factory hole:


Tighten everything up and admire your work! Make sure you note that the undertail has a big lip on it that slides into the tail light. If you forget to line this up, like I did, you will have to pull it all back apart again to get it into the lip...

All done!



Daytime pics:


 

·
Bloo Moderator
Joined
·
23,742 Posts
Nice....would you like me to Copy this to the "How To" section?....no replies allowed in that section but will be linked back to this thread.

bloo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,204 Posts
Nice write up, but you made more work for yourself than you had to. I just installed the Yoshimura kit and install was similar, except it has a plate light that has to be wired. You don't need to pull the rider's seat or the lower half of the tail. Pull the top part of the tail off, disconnect the signal and plate lights and it is possible to pull each wire out through that hole individually. I think my Yoshi install took all of about 45 minutes and that included soldering the plate light wires instead of using the crimp connections they provide.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,347 Posts
Licence Plate light

Do you not need a LED Plate light??? I live in VA and I believe the law dictates that you need one, does the tail light provide enough light to not get me pulled over by some d-bag with a jelly donut?

:dontknow:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Do you not need a LED Plate light??? I live in VA and I believe the law dictates that you need one, does the tail light provide enough light to not get me pulled over by some d-bag with a jelly donut?

:dontknow:
Florida is pretty lenient. I'm supposed to have a light, but i'm not going to get pulled over just for that. Plus if I get pulled over for speeding or doing something stupid (once in a blue moon), it gives them something to ticket me for without giving me a huge ticket.
 

·
Squid wannabe
Joined
·
6,073 Posts
Very detailed write up man.

But it can be done a lot simpler.

I just remove the passenger seat, and the faring piece around it. With a ball point hex you can remove the fender and thats all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Very detailed write up man.

But it can be done a lot simpler.

I just remove the passenger seat, and the faring piece around it. With a ball point hex you can remove the fender and thats all.
This was a long time ago, but I ended up putting this on twice. Once to figure out how and once with pictures. For the life of me, I couldn't get to the wiring harness without taking the entire cowling apart.

Mind you, this was a long time ago and I don't remember why I couldn't get to the harness, but I know I couldn't. Could just be me not pulling hard enough haha.
 

·
Squid wannabe
Joined
·
6,073 Posts
Its all good.

First time is always harder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
682 Posts
I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would chime in since I just installed mine today. Install was pretty simple, took about 45 min but I was really taking my time.

Quality is great. One thing I didnt really like about the kit though, was the huge hole left where the pipe the wires are routed through used to be. I didnt like the idea of road grime/water/chain fling potentially getting up in the tail and making a mess of things. I had some large vacuum caps laying around that were a perfect fit for the hole. I simply drilled a 3/8" hole in the end of it and routed the signals through before rerouting them through the tail, then plugged the hole. I feel much better about this setup.



I also had to drill new holes in the plate frame that came with the bike. Once my actual plate comes, I will find a frame thats a bit more low profile.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
steeda how'd you go disconnecting the rear tail light, i just about skinned mu knuckles trying to seperate the plastic joiner, is there a trick to it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
steeda how'd you go disconnecting the rear tail light, i just about skinned mu knuckles trying to seperate the plastic joiner, is there a trick to it?
Try using both hands. One to gently pull on the actual harness (be very careful) and the other to squeeze on the connector. That's my method for most wiring stuff I can't get to easily. I do have unusually small hands though so this problem doesn't come up very often lol.

Edit: The plug shown above is a very good idea!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
thanks mate, just put a flat head screw driver against the rear light side and it popped right off no dramas.
Thanks for this thread mate, it helped with my tail tidy no end, took me a few moments to realise the pic with all bolts disconnected and folding back was the number plate end that tucks into itself...i was trying to pull the cover under the seat back...doh!
thanks for the thread steed,was very useful
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
graves f.e.

rafa, could you explain how you did yours differently?
sure would appreciate an easier way.
thank you:notworthy:
 

·
Squid wannabe
Joined
·
6,073 Posts
rafa, could you explain how you did yours differently?
sure would appreciate an easier way.
thank you:notworthy:
I didnt remove all the rear panels.
I used a ball point allen wrench to access the mounting bolts for the fender.

I can really remember anymore, but i know for trackdays i remove the eliminator in a minute or so, just undo the two bolts, connector for the signals and good to go.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top