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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Someone posted up asking how to disconnect the exhaust butterfly valve on the 10R so I thought I'd do a quick how-to with pics for the how-to section. I have no idea whether or not there are any gains or drawbacks to doing this so do it at your own risk and discretion. All I'm doing is showing you how to do it if it's something you want to do. I unhooked mine for a test ride and couldn't tell any difference except for it being a little louder below around 7K rpm. Didn't really feel any difference in power...


Ok, with the pillion seat/cowl off remove the filler panel that goes between the rider seat and pillion/cowl. Remove the two screws circled in yellow and just pull the panel out from under the rider seat...







Here's the actuator that operates the valve...






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Thanks to sabersaw30 for this K.I.S.S. method. Looks like I made it a lot harder than it had to be. Saber suggested removing the bolt that holds the actuator plate on, pulling the plate and removing the cable ends from it. Works like a charm! With the pass. seat/cowl and filler plate off all you need is an 8mm socket (or wrench). Remove the bolt circled in yellow in the pic below, pull the plate off and take the cable ends out of it. You can put the plate back on or leave it off. As long as the cables aren't hooked to it the valve won't function. :wink:



I would suggest holding the actuator plate with something (channel lock pliers, your fingers, a big wrench, etc...) when breaking the bolt loose initially. I don't know if turning the actuator manually with the switch off would be harmful to it or not, but why risk it. And it will try to turn counter clockwise as you try to break the bolt loose the first time. Just FYI...


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And here is how I done it...

The clip you see in this pic holds the cable sleeves in place. Remove the clip by inserting a thin blade screw driver or pocket knife where the yellow arrow is pointing and pry the clip away from the black base it hooks to. Unhook the cable the red arrow points to first. Simply pull the cable sleeve in the direction of the green arrow to get it out of the mount and then pull the cable around until it lines up with the slot in the bottom of the actuator plate. When the cable is lined up with the slot it will slide straight down and out of the actuator plate. To remove the other cable you have to turn the ignition switch on so that the actuator rotates around to give you some slack in that cable. Turn the key on and let the valve actuator stop moving, then remove the cable the same way you did the first one...







Here's a shot with the clip off and both cables unhooked... The valve actuator will no longer operate and close the exhaust butterfly valve. :wink: Just secure the cables to the subframe or something with some zip ties, or remove them from the valve and take them off the bike and you're done.

 

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yeah ED, whats the deal?
 

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sp500 said:
Cheers big ears



p.s I thought the purpose was to open the valve
It leaves it opened, looks like a mis-print.
Nice post and pics, I'd like to add that you can just un-bolt that plate the cables attach to is an easy way to do it.

Mike
 

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oh ok then koo
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
sp500 said:
Cheers big ears



p.s I thought the purpose was to open the valve :dontknow:

I'm not sure... My understanding was that it is full open when the bike is off and when the ignition is switched on the actuator partially closes it to increase backpressure. What I do know is that when I disconnected it this way my bike was louder below around 7k (7K = the point at which the valve is supposed to be fully open when it's functional) and wasn't down on power so the valve couldn't have been closed. :dontknow:

That's the purpose of this thread though. To discuss the mod. If there's a drawback to doing it this way I can take the how-to down. I was only showing how to disconnect it from the actuator. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
BIKEMIKE said:
It leaves it opened, looks like a mis-print.
Nice post and pics, I'd like to add that you can just un-bolt that plate the cables attach to is an easy way to do it.

Mike

No misprint. What I was saying was that the actuator no longer closes the valve... and it doesn't when the cables are unhooked... Whether it's "fully" open after this mod is another question. One that I can't answer. As I said above though, mine wasn't down on power after unhooking it for the test ride.

Fwiw, I keep mine connected. All I could tell that I gained from unhooking it was some noise below 7k rpm. I think this is another mod that **might** benefit a racer but is probably not going to benefit the average street rider at all.
 

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I would like to know if anyone has done this before and after on a dyno.

from my understanding is it smoothes out the torque across the rpm range. but then I have also been told that it was put in just to quite the bike down for emissions. Can anyone confirm or deny either one of these theories?

 

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Discussion Starter #9
zrxhooligan said:
I would like to know if anyone has done this before and after on a dyno.

from my understanding is it smoothes out the torque across the rpm range. but then I have also been told that it was put in just to quite the bike down for emissions. Can anyone confirm or deny either one of these theories?

I don't know about "smoothing" torque, but I've read that it's supposed to increase torque at partial throttle below 7k rpm by adding backpressure. I can't say whether or not that's true though because I didn't dyno it before and after. No seat of the pants difference in street riding when I tried it though. :dontknow:
 

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El Diablo said:
No misprint. What I was saying was that the actuator no longer closes the valve... and it doesn't when the cables are unhooked... Whether it's "fully" open after this mod is another question. One that I can't answer. As I said above though, mine wasn't down on power after unhooking it for the test ride.

Fwiw, I keep mine connected. All I could tell that I gained from unhooking it was some noise below 7k rpm. I think this is another mod that **might** benefit a racer but is probably not going to benefit the average street rider at all.
AHHH, I see.
A full exhaust will solve all this.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
BIKEMIKE said:
AHHH, I see.
A full exhaust will solve all this.
Yeah, but not worth the $$$ for me for average street riding. The main reason I even went with a slip-on was looks. The 10 has more horsepower in stock form than I can use on the street doing the type of riding I do. :wink:
 

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That valve is mostly there for noise control; it's how this bike gets away with a rather small muffler (my ZX9R had a HUGE muffler by comparison). It may have some effect on mid-range torque, but not much. I'm leaving mine connected, too.
 

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Guy's i just took pic's of the valve with key on and cable hooked up.= valve closed
Then i removed the pully took pic's of valve with key off,=valve open then key on with pully removed=valve open. I have no where to host them but i'll email them if someone eles can.
 

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Thanks BFLY! I'm leaving mine disconnected. To me with my gutted stock can it is pretty much a full system then. I want to keep my bike looking pretty close to stock (just lowered, seat cowl, carbon euro sigs, fender eliminator). It does sound much louder than stock now and you can definately feel the difference in the amount of exhaust being shot out the end of the can now.
 

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I just did one more test to confrim the valve stays open with pully disconected. I started and ran the bike gave it a few revs with out my muffler=valve fully open.
I hope these clears questions up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
BFLY said:
Guy's i just took pic's of the valve with key on and cable hooked up.= valve closed
Then i removed the pully took pic's of valve with key off,=valve open then key on with pully removed=valve open. I have no where to host them but i'll email them if someone eles can.

Send me the pics at [email protected] and I'll host/post them for you. :eek:ccasion1
 

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BFLY said:
Guy's i just took pic's of the valve with key on and cable hooked up.= valve closed
Then i removed the pully took pic's of valve with key off,=valve open then key on with pully removed=valve open. I have no where to host them but i'll email them if someone eles can.
I use Image Shack to host, it's easy and free.
http://imageshack.us/
 

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Discussion Starter #19
BFLY said:
El you have mail

Here's BFLY's pics... I'll post comments with them. If I'm off on them BFLY just let me know...

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Here's a shot of the actuator/pully in the ignition off position...







Here's a shot of the exhaust butterfly valve with the ignition switch on... (it closes when the switch is turned on, right BFLY?)






A shot of the actuator and cable ends with the pulley removed/cables disconnected...






A shot of the butterfly valve with the pulley removed/cables disconnected...






A closer shot of the valve w/cables disconnected...



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