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Just did this today. i used a yellow marrets to plug the line. went out for a rip and didnt hear one back fire or pop. where as before its happened in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. i do notice the bike is now a bit quieter now. which sucks. but better than having it pop all the time
 

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Just did this today. i used a yellow marrets to plug the line. went out for a rip and didnt hear one back fire or pop. where as before its happened in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. i do notice the bike is now a bit quieter now. which sucks. but better than having it pop all the time
Bump. About to tear into my 08 tonight and do this. The popping was cool at first but is just plain annoying now. Wish me luck, hopefully I fix more than I break tonight :mrgreen:
 

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Bike sounds great now. It still pops here and there in the high rev range but is sounds much better than it did before. :)

It makes you wonder how good bikes could be from the factory if they weren't required to go through all the emissions BS and what not.
 

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Bump. About to tear into my 08 tonight and do this. The popping was cool at first but is just plain annoying now. Wish me luck, hopefully I fix more than I break tonight :mrgreen:
Ya it was alright at first, but I didn't even want to gear down when slowing down anymore. I had to do it. No holding back anymore when riding.
 

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Ya it was alright at first, but I didn't even want to gear down when slowing down anymore. I had to do it. No holding back anymore when riding.
Did you notice your bike was a LOT quieter after doing this?


..Or am I just going crazy?...
 

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Great write-up.
Gone through this on a few bikes now.
Just curious, is this the same on the Gen4?
Just about to do this myself this afternoon. Likely won't buy the plates and just re-use the hose to block it off. Going to rig up something for the airbox block off. I havent take it off just yet but I'm guessing it's the hose on the left on the Gen 4's? Not finding any write-up or how to for the gen4.
 

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Just about finishing up doing it.
Pretty much the same deal. Will post a brief write-up and some pics tonight on the Gen4 AIS removal.
 

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Since it will not quit raining here, I was forced to do a few modifications instead of ride.

I was under the tank and in the airbox for a test mod. ? (coming soon) and snapped a couple of pics for a short visual "How to" (assuming you can lift your tank and remove the airbox cover on your own).

The first pic. is the original setup with the Air Switching Valve shown with a Red X.

The Red arrows are the hoses that connect the stock plates to the valve.

The Yellow arrow points out the two wire plug that will need to be undone.

The Red Circle is the vacuum line coming from the airbox that will need to be capped or plugged. This is where the Switching Valve pulls air from to be sent through the exhaust to help burn any unburnt fumes for emissions.



Second pic. is showing the hoses removed, airbox capped, and the 2 wire connector jumped (Thanks MagicMavis:wink:) to avoid getting an FI light fault. The Air Switching Valve is completely loose and can be removed.



Third pic. shows the modification complete (except for securing the jumper wire).

The hose connecting the stock plates is part of the original vacuum line that was connected to the airbox. Cut to length and secured with 5/8" hose clamps.

The airbox is capped using a plug I had laying around and some high temp. silicone to hold it in place. (I have since removed this cap and used a 5/8" cap and hose clamp)



Maybe this will help someone.:eek:ccasion1
Since it will not quit raining here, I was forced to do a few modifications instead of ride.

I was under the tank and in the airbox for a test mod. ? (coming soon) and snapped a couple of pics for a short visual "How to" (assuming you can lift your tank and remove the airbox cover on your own).

The first pic. is the original setup with the Air Switching Valve shown with a Red X.

The Red arrows are the hoses that connect the stock plates to the valve.

The Yellow arrow points out the two wire plug that will need to be undone.

The Red Circle is the vacuum line coming from the airbox that will need to be capped or plugged. This is where the Switching Valve pulls air from to be sent through the exhaust to help burn any unburnt fumes for emissions.



Second pic. is showing the hoses removed, airbox capped, and the 2 wire connector jumped (Thanks MagicMavis:wink:) to avoid getting an FI light fault. The Air Switching Valve is completely loose and can be removed.



Third pic. shows the modification complete (except for securing the jumper wire).

The hose connecting the stock plates is part of the original vacuum line that was connected to the airbox. Cut to length and secured with 5/8" hose clamps.

The airbox is capped using a plug I had laying around and some high temp. silicone to hold it in place. (I have since removed this cap and used a 5/8" cap and hose clamp)



Maybe this will help someone.:eek:ccasion1
Can't see the pictures
 

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Can't see the pictures
That's what happens after 11 years since it was posted.

But here, let me help you. These aren't the original pics of course, but these should shed some light on this topic and the options.

444453
444454
444455
444456
 

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